Motor spun a bearing. So this 2nd owner teg will be getting a b20/vtec. Ive got a b20b4, p72-1 head and a gsr tranny no lsd. That will be taking the place of my bone stock teg on skunk 2 coil-overs. Factory CD player....

I dropped off motor and head today at the machine shop 09/10/2013

Block and head hot tub bath
block- bored and resurfaced, new acl bearings, crank polished, rods shotpeen and re sized for ARP bolts, rotating assembly all balanced. reusing oem crank, rods. New pistons with hastings rings.

head- resurfaced and what ever tha machine shop suggest needs replaced will get replaced, Adjustable cam gears.

Tune- after its done it will get gone

I did a quick estimated(on Ebay) about $1000 in parts that I still need to buy from- ARP rod and stud, ACL bearing, vtec con kit, rings, water pump 22t, oil pump, timing belt, gaskets, plugs, wires, gears.

I have dc headers and a Koyorad radiator with samco hoses, aem fuel rail, fuel regulator, short throw shifter,cat back, and a AEM intake that will go in as well.

Im not looking for a super fast car just a fun reliable daily driver with AC/PS to beat on. So no specific power numbers what ever I get i get. I cant wait! Pics will be coming Ive just started pulling the motor and when the damn Military pays me all the money they owe me the fun will begin.

Any input or advice will help Ive been out the loop for awhile. What piston size I should bore to, and what problems will i expect to run into- electrical wise and other parts thats not plug and play or bolt on. Thanks

 

What pistons and rods will you be using ? along with what cams and tuned on what ? people generally don't bore B20's anything over 1mm so 85mm at least I haven't seen any sleeves over 85mm. you'll be WELL over 1K in parts my cams and springs cost just shy of that. DC header is a POS unless you live in cali and you have to be smog/carb legal. form what you've listed you're looking at well over 5K if done right

 

Stock rods, not sure on pistons yet. Yea max bore will be 1 over just depends on what the machine shop says. Hopefully a hone will do the trick. Still doing research on what cams to go with. Headers were free and better than oem I suppose. A buddy has a performance shop so he will be doing all the tuning. I don't know **** about tuning. Still trying to read as much as I can as I go. Yea I'm going to be way over 1k with new pistons now. I have all the big ticket items just need parts to finish the motor after machine shop is done with it.

 

DC header will choke that b20V especially if it's high comp it's really just a JDM ITR header a bit of a step up from the standard USDM GSR/R header. chose the cams AFTER you've decided on a C/R goal that's what it comes down to.

 

Ok cool thanks for the info. Those will be going on Craigslist ASAP.

 

So I talked to the machine shop today and they are just getting to it. They cleaned it and did a quick check and said that the cylinder walls should be ok with just a hone. Will to much ware and a hone mess with piston ring gap or faster ware? If so Im going to have them go .50 over. Crank has been micro polished and ready to. Also they said with the machine they use to remove pistons from rods might/usually breaks the pistons. So if the walls are ok do I re use rods no shotpeen and pistons, or go ahead bore over and shotpeen rods and get new pistons? what to do what to do. On a side note ive never assembled a short block ever. I have work on cars most of my life. So i talk with a local performance shop and asked how much he would charge to do everything but I want to help build and work on the car. He said he could help/ tutor me threw everything that needs to be done at his shop for 300$ So should I do that or learn/ try it myself. He has a lift and all the tool. What do yall think? Thanks for all the help so far guys.

 

Your piston question really depends on your $$$ and time. If you decide to change pistons, you'll obviously be spending more money, and it will take longer. If he's just doing a hone then you should be good with the old pistons, just get new rings. If your swapping out pistons, doesn't really matter if the old ones get broken in the removal process, does it?
Just an FYI b20's are known for splitting cylinder walls in higher HP setups, because of their change in cylinder design from the b18s. Might sway your decision on overboring.

Personally I would say spend the extra 300. I mean if you don't have a lift or many tools, your saving yourself a big headache, excluding the fact he's willing to also give you advice. Sounds like a no brainer for a first timer/ill prepared engine swap out.
GL