93 civic hatch. Z6 swapped. Top off MC & it's literally gone the next day. I see no leakage at the MC, & I don't know how else to go about with my diagnostic procedure. **** is crazy, help me out. My brake pedal literally goes probably 9/10 of the way to the floor before just locking up the tires..

 

Did you bleed the brakes?

 

Bleed the brakes properly?

 

Start at the corner farthest away from the MC (which would be the rear passenger wheel), then work your way farthest to closest..bleeding each one by using the bleeder screw and a helper to pump the brakes.

Go in this order:
Passenger rear
Driver rear
Passenger Front
Driver front

Brakes should stiffen up and be MUCH better after that. If you're still having the problems where the brakes engage and lock up near your floorboard, I'd start to suspect your master cylinder...

 

Would you have to remove the wheels to bleed all of them, or could i get away with just lifting it & not removing em? & how much brake fluid am I probably gonna need for all this haha?

 

It's easier to of course but no, you don't have to. Just jack up the correct side and use a jack stand. I don't know exactly how much you will need but what you drain out you can just pour back in the cylinder after the air bubbles are released.

 

silly question, have you checked for leaks anywhere else besides the MC?

 

He doesn't have a Chevy Nova so that sequence is wrong. Civic brakes are connected diagonally so the sequence is:

Pass. rear
Drv. front
Drv. rear
Pass. front

 

no I haven't cause my eg is slammed so it's a pain to lift it, I haven't found the time. I've just been driving granny style cause my weak brakes but I'll bleed em tomorrow & let you guys know whats up Thanks for the help

 

do you have to remove the wheels to.bleed the brakes? is that a serious question?

you probably have a torn caliper boot and break fluid pouring out, hopefully you dont kill anyone.

 

Glad I don't live in Arizona.

 

 

The master cylinder can be leaking internally and all the brake fluid is collecting in the brake booster canister. You won't see any external leak until it gets real full than the paint on the outside of the booster will start to dissolve from the seepage of the brake fluid. If you remove the MC you can see the fluid in the booster and use a suction pump to pull it out.

 

Had the same problem in my ef wagon. Can't tell you how many bottles of brake fluid I went through. Turned out to be a small tear on the driver side front brake line.

 

Stop driving until you fix your brakes. This is how people win Darwin awards.

 

so you've checked one thing and basically gave up diagnosing? holy ****.

 

My bad, I was not aware of that. Good info to know.

 

Didn't say I gave up, said I didn't know how else to go about my diagnosing procedure. Sorry I'm not smart, I wish I could be you.

 

checked one thing. stopped looking. that's not giving up at all.

 

Jack the car up, take the wheels off, visually inspect all the rubber connector hoses, the front calipers, outside of the rear drums & all hard lines, and then the brake master cylinder and brake booster for leaks. If you don't see any, bleed the brakes with the help of a friend in the sequence above -

Passenger rear
Driver rear
Passenger Front
Driver front

Until there is clear fluid with no bubbles coming out of all bleed valves. (while bleeder closed, pump and hold brakes, open bleeder to relieve pressure and close before all pressure has been exhausted so that no air goes back into brake system. Repeat as necessary)

Make sure that you keep fluid in the reservoir. Shouldn't take more than an hour all told and you need one wrench, a bleed tube, a cup & brake fluid, assuming you don't find any leaks.

Fyi, driving with no brakes, or almost no brakes is taking the chance that you are going to kill someone. Get it fixed or walk.

 

+1 , see that all the time with MC that is gone...

 

Also, after I replaced the FL line, they worked OK for a day and then lost all the fluid in my MC. Saw that the clear coat was getting ate up on what used to be spotless Si rim on the FR. Turned out to be a shot caliper. You could hold it back with a finger haha. All cheap fixes. $15-$25 for a line and $40 +core for a caliper.

 

Again, no. The correct order one more time is:

RR, LF, LR, RF.

OP chances are you've got a leaky line or wheel cylinder.