could the hub be damaged from worn/bad wheel bearing? my driver's side wheel has like 3mm play and must be replaced. someone told me the hub could be damaged too but i really don't see how.

new hub is like $105. in that case i might as well buy a used front knuckle. the only real reason i want to keep the hub is i already have extended wheel studs in there...

opinions please. thx.



[Modified by GhettoRacer, 8:56 PM 10/25/2002]

 

Yeah, from my limited experience, if it isn't nabbed in time, the hub will get worn down (cone-like) and should be replaced. I have gone through 4 wheel bearings this year and two hubs. Seems that heat has been my biggest killer.

Remember, I got one year experience w/ these cars so I don't remotely call myself qualified but this is what I have learned.

 

Hubs are highly stressed too and don't last forever. You could magnaflux the hub each time you replace the bearing to get an idea of a reasonable frequency, or just pick a number like 1 or 2 times per year to replace them unless experience teaches you differently.

Scott, who thinks that while a bearing will talk to you a little before it fails, a hub won't.....

 

thehub could already be damaged for two reasons. because the bearing is bad, the hub was probably experiencing more heat, on top of the extra heat from just running hard on the track. the other thing about the hub is the inner bearing race could have spun around the hub and messed up the surface of the hub.

i recommend you replace the hub anyway. when they fail, they fail suddenly. you shouldnt have too much trouble reusing the studs if thats a big issue.

 

1 or 2 times a year? *blush* it's 7 years old with 101k miles and lots of track miles. i guess a used knuckle it shall be!

anyone heard of actual hub failure?



[Modified by GhettoRacer, 11:01 PM 10/25/2002]

 

twice in two weekends. yeah, they break. dont chance it dude.







[Modified by Tyson, 3:27 AM 10/26/2002]

 

Guys, what were the bad bearing symptoms? I think I have a bad bearing, kinda wobbly under accelaration, very noticable after 50mph but barely noticable under that. It shakes the front end and steering sometimes ver much sometimes not too bad. Also there is a subtle thump that is speed dependent... like a flatspot in a tire but all of the tires are perfect.

looks like I'll be putting on these GSR front knuckles and brakes sooner than I thought

*Oh yeah and on how a whole hub could go bad, the high heat from a failing bearing will promote failure and if the bearing locks up or sticks a bit, the outer race of thebearing can spin inside the hub and make the hole for the race larger, thus promoting failure of the next new bearing you install. Skateboarding and stress analysis taught me that stuff


[Modified by owen_the_soyboy, 12:41 PM 10/26/2002]

 

On my street car, the roar was unignorable (as speeds increased, sound increased but I'd turn the car unloading the bad bearing side, the roar would go away). On the CRX, I've never heard a peep (car is usually between 101 and 102 dB so that's not suprising). We'll usually jack the front end up and check for play - remove spindle nut and try moving the top and bottom of the wheel toward you - notable movement should be a failing bearing from my *limited* understanding). My most recent fryer was noticed when we tried to manually turn the wheels (car in the air) and no worky worky. I assume b/c of the LSD we couldn't move either wheel. Removed the half shafts from the transmission and realized it was psgr side that was nearly seized. Maybe its the older bits in a CRX and certainly the glowing rotors in my last enduro that contribute to this. I think we are on a 6 race hub replacement schedule and we check the bearings after/before each.

YMMV and again, I am only stating my experience/understanding. There are many more knowledgable folks out there and maybe they can lend credence or contradiction to what I say. Regardless, these are seriously scary failure parts so I don't want to give any bad/incorrect information.

FWIW, we are going to our final 5 races w/ a back up set of spindles, hardened hub and wheel bearings.

 

Anybody looked into cryo treating hubs?

 

Frank ,
lemme know if you need a used hub/spindle assy.

they go for around 35 dollars.

 

I've gotten hardened hubs from OPM when they have them available. I recall as discussion here back in the spring on cryo treating but don't remember if there was a consensus.

 

Hey where do you get wheel hubs for $35?

 

just keep your wheel axle nuts tight

 

I recently replaced both the hub & wheel bearing on one side of the car. Both parts were brand new Honda OEM with less than 10K of daily driving, and only 3 track days.

At first I had a vibration that would start at around 70mph. There was no play at either tire with the car on jack stands - at this point.

It was hard to pin down the cause, but later on I could hear a cyclic scratching/groaning noise from the outside wheel when making left-hand turns only. After this went on for about a week (daily driving), there was now play at the passenger side tire when on jackstands.
Went to replace the wheel bearing, only to find the hub was shot as well.

FWIW, I never loosened the axle nuts when checking for play.

 

On a related note, anyone happen to know what replacement parts to use for a 96 spec ITR front hub/wheelbearing? Or if anyone knows where I can get a knuckle or whatever to replace it with. I'm hoping that prelude parts will work, as they seem to be replacements for everything else.

 

You can get Honda hubs cheap here:

http://www.hondapartssource.com

I just bought a used junkyard knuckle (to replace my bent one), and will be replacing the wheel bearing, balljoint, and studs in a couple of days. As far I can tell, the hub will be just fine, but I could be wrong. What should I check for if I have a bad hub on this used knuckle?