Crank Position Sensor Connector Needed
I have a 2002 civic. I had a couple of engine codes, P-0335 and P-0336. I have replaced the crank sensor already, and when I unplugged the old one there was a lot of corrosion inside of the connector. Now I have only the P-0336 code, that I believe to be an intermittent signal from the sensor. I am looking to get another connector, but I was told by a Honda dealer that they only sell them as a complete wiring harness.
Is this true?
Any assistance is finding a new, or good used, connector would be greatly appreciated.
thanks.
Later, Jeff.
Is this true?
Any assistance is finding a new, or good used, connector would be greatly appreciated.
thanks.
Later, Jeff.
A decade plus ago, I worked in a Honda dealership parts department, we did have a Honda oem terminal kit, not sure if your required terminal would be in that kit. Can also get one from a recycler who is willing to let you cut up a harness. Check to see if any aftermarket suppliers have made repair pigtail harnesses.
-Check local CL for parts cars
-eBay
-nationwide salvage listings: http://www.car-part.com/ You can find a whole harness for about $50
-cheapest parts in the land (if one is near you): http://www.picknpull.com/check_inventory.aspx It'll cost ya about $2 to snip that connector off
-eBay
-nationwide salvage listings: http://www.car-part.com/ You can find a whole harness for about $50
-cheapest parts in the land (if one is near you): http://www.picknpull.com/check_inventory.aspx It'll cost ya about $2 to snip that connector off
like I said in the first post, my car is a 2002 civic with the 1.7 motor. what other years have the same motor? that way I can hopefully find a car at Picknpull that will have the right connector.
Thanks for all of everyone's help.
Later, Jeff.
Thanks for all of everyone's help.
Later, Jeff.
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Take sample, or a picture of sample and look at similar year Honda and Acura products. Pick and Pull will let you cut off pigtails, or some one with a parts engine may still have a harness on theirs.
OK, I have changed the sensor twice and the connector. I am still getting the P0336 code. which I believe to be an intermittant signal. I have a milti-meter, so does anyone know what the readings should be at the connector?
Or, does anyone have any suggestions on what is the cause of the code?
thanks.
Later, Jeff.
Or, does anyone have any suggestions on what is the cause of the code?
thanks.
Later, Jeff.
1. Disconnect the connector and turn the ignition to ON (II)
2. On the harness side of the connector, measure for voltage from the yellow/black wire to body ground
Is there battery voltage?
YES- step 3
NO- Repair the open in the wire between PGM-FI relay 1 and the CKP sensor
3. Harness side of the connector, measure for voltage from the Blue to body ground
Is there about 5V?
YES- step 4
NO- step 6
4. Harness side, measure voltage from yellow/black to brown/yellow
Is there battery voltage?
YES- step 5
NO- Repair open between CKP sensor and G101 (ground from engine to core support)
5. Substitute a known-good CKP sensor and recheck for codes.
Is DTC P0335 or P0336 indicated?
YES- Update or replace the ECM/PCM
NO- replace the original sensor
6. Measure voltage between ECM/PCM connector terminal A7 (Blue) to body ground (your back-probing here)
Is there about 5V?
YES- Repair open between ECM/PCM A7 and the CKP sensor
NO- step 7
7. Turn the ignition OFF and disconnect ECM/PCM connector A
8. Harness side of the connector, measure for continuity (Ohms) from A7 (Blue) to body ground
Is there continuity?
YES- Repair short in the wire between ECM/PCM A7 and the CKP sensor
NO- Update or replace the ECM/PCM
NOTE: ECM/PCM connector A is the bottom connector when your looking at the ECM/PCM inside the dash. It's a 31 pin connector.
2. On the harness side of the connector, measure for voltage from the yellow/black wire to body ground
Is there battery voltage?
YES- step 3
NO- Repair the open in the wire between PGM-FI relay 1 and the CKP sensor
3. Harness side of the connector, measure for voltage from the Blue to body ground
Is there about 5V?
YES- step 4
NO- step 6
4. Harness side, measure voltage from yellow/black to brown/yellow
Is there battery voltage?
YES- step 5
NO- Repair open between CKP sensor and G101 (ground from engine to core support)
5. Substitute a known-good CKP sensor and recheck for codes.
Is DTC P0335 or P0336 indicated?
YES- Update or replace the ECM/PCM
NO- replace the original sensor
6. Measure voltage between ECM/PCM connector terminal A7 (Blue) to body ground (your back-probing here)
Is there about 5V?
YES- Repair open between ECM/PCM A7 and the CKP sensor
NO- step 7
7. Turn the ignition OFF and disconnect ECM/PCM connector A
8. Harness side of the connector, measure for continuity (Ohms) from A7 (Blue) to body ground
Is there continuity?
YES- Repair short in the wire between ECM/PCM A7 and the CKP sensor
NO- Update or replace the ECM/PCM
NOTE: ECM/PCM connector A is the bottom connector when your looking at the ECM/PCM inside the dash. It's a 31 pin connector.
OK. I conducted the procedures listed above and everything seems to be OK. I still get the P0336 code and the car is still in limp mode. When I checked the yellow/black wire for battery voltage, it only showed 11.7 volts. I then checked the battery for voltage and it also only had 11.7 volts. I know this is a little low. Could this low voltage make the sensor not operate correctly? I have used both of the new sensors I have with negative results. Could both of the new sensors both be bad?
Well, the car is fixed. The problem was the 2 aftermarket sensors I purchased. As noted by someone on this forum, "DON'T BUY ANYTHING BUT GENUINE HONDA PARTS".
If I would have taken that advise, I would have been done a long time age.
thanks for everyones time and assistance in helping me fix the car, I appreciate it.
thanks again.
Later, Jeff.
If I would have taken that advise, I would have been done a long time age.
thanks for everyones time and assistance in helping me fix the car, I appreciate it.
thanks again.
Later, Jeff.
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