ef overhaeating need help
Hey guys i need some help with my carmive been over it but need some advice, my car starts warming up getting past half way temp when i run with the ac on and wondering what could cause it, i had a blown hg but replaced it last week and everuthing was tqd to spec. now, im not loosing coolant anymore but it still warms up when i run with the a/c cuz its 100 degrees out here, both fans are running all the time to try and keep it cool( hardwired) i pulled the thermostat put all new coolant, checked hoses and no leaks, radiator is new too. Only thing i can think about is waterpump now no? It will warm up when at a stoplight but once i get moving it will cool also looped the hose that goes to the heatercore to the engine again cuz theyve told me it could be a leak so i did that to rule out the heatercore. The homie said it might b that my a/c is drawing too much power? How? Any fix for that? Also changed the temp sender sensor to be sure it wasnt a fauly sensor and i did bleed the air out of the cooling sysytem. Thnx in advance
I believe it's job is to stay closed to help other sensors and valves heat up quicker during warm up. After it reaches a certain temp it opens up and allows full circulation.
That's the way I understand it but I'm no expert. Some of those sensors/valves that aren't being warmed up appropriately would be affected but I don't think it would cause you to overheat.
Check the radiator for bubbles at idle yet (cold radiator/engine please)? Also before installing the headgasket previously did you have the mating surfaces inspected for flatness?
Check the radiator for bubbles at idle yet (cold radiator/engine please)? Also before installing the headgasket previously did you have the mating surfaces inspected for flatness?
The cooling system was bled already and head was resurfaced, the one thing i didnt check was the block, but either way my old hg was bad so id get bubbles coming out all the time when i was tryong to purge the system but now no bubbles so i think we can rule out mating surfaces no?
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No.
After the engine has warmed up, the main job of the thermostat becomes slowing down the flow of water to allow for proper heat transfer. Much like how you can quickly touch your hand off a hot frying pan.
Without a thermostat, the water rushes right by the cylinder walls and does not have a chance to properly extract heat.
After the engine has warmed up, the main job of the thermostat becomes slowing down the flow of water to allow for proper heat transfer. Much like how you can quickly touch your hand off a hot frying pan.
Without a thermostat, the water rushes right by the cylinder walls and does not have a chance to properly extract heat.
No.
The main job of the thermostat is to slow down the flow of water to allow for proper heat transfer. Much like how you can quickly touch your hand off a hot frying pan.
Without a thermostat, the water rushes right by the cylinder walls and does not have a chance to properly extract heat.
The main job of the thermostat is to slow down the flow of water to allow for proper heat transfer. Much like how you can quickly touch your hand off a hot frying pan.
Without a thermostat, the water rushes right by the cylinder walls and does not have a chance to properly extract heat.
The engine will run correctly as designed with the thermostat in place.
If you still have problems, it's not because the thermostat was the issue... it's because something else is wrong.
You aren't helping find the problem by taking your thermostat out.
In certain instances it may run cooler. In all instances it will run better since the engine temperature will be controlled closer to the optimal temp as designed.
You can't rule out mating surfaces completely unless you remove the head and actually inspect the mating surfaces.
Other things that come to mind for your overheating;
Timing it not set correctly
Low on oil
Coolant system not bled properly
If you still have problems, it's not because the thermostat was the issue... it's because something else is wrong.
You aren't helping find the problem by taking your thermostat out.
In certain instances it may run cooler. In all instances it will run better since the engine temperature will be controlled closer to the optimal temp as designed.
You can't rule out mating surfaces completely unless you remove the head and actually inspect the mating surfaces.
Other things that come to mind for your overheating;
Timing it not set correctly
Low on oil
Coolant system not bled properly
Ill give it a look at then, the homie should have a timing light, whats killing me is that it only heats up when i turn on the ac, other than that it doesnt do it.
Well, A/C does put a significant load on the engine.
Makes it work harder and generate more heat.
If it's not cooling properly, then it's going to heat up.
I assume you did 50/50 mix of distilled water and coolant?
Could be that the radiator has some hot spots?
Makes it work harder and generate more heat.
If it's not cooling properly, then it's going to heat up.
I assume you did 50/50 mix of distilled water and coolant?
Could be that the radiator has some hot spots?
Yeah but that much of a load? And radiator is new, and yes i added the premixed coolant.
first put the thermostat back in. Had one where the water pump fins corroded off the shaft so it wasn't doing its job and was overheating. I would look into that next. Should have just done it when you had it apart to do the HG.
hg was already done and water pump was done yesterday, the pump was fine but i still put the new one on, might as well since its already off and has never been done. gonna do the thermostat next
I did notice that the temp sending unit doesnt screw all the way in, like before i get the unit to properly sit, it starts tightening up and i fear that if itighten it more ill strip the threads on the head. It seems to go in about 75% of the way in, can this affect the reading as like maybe the sensor is not getting 100% of coolant contact?
I have a gutted T-stat in mine. It still adds some restriction to the system but can never stick. Its 100 degrees where I am too. Its definitely a challenge to keep things cool. If all else fails run a Mishimoto aluminum radiator. When I was N/A I ran one and it kept things very cool.
I have a gutted T-stat in mine. It still adds some restriction to the system but can never stick. Its 100 degrees where I am too. Its definitely a challenge to keep things cool. If all else fails run a Mishimoto aluminum radiator. When I was N/A I ran one and it kept things very cool.
The new skunk2 crx/ef radiator is only like $200. Or you can get one of the ebay all aluminum ones for like $110, just make sure you flush it well before using it.


