the car is a 2000 accord EX F23 auto,
anyhow i belive i've destroyed that really pricey rear mount lowering the engine too far (or maybe too high) when i was trying to do another project, because after that, the engine vibrated and chattered like hell at idle or even low speeds off the throttle

you could actually hear the darned thing clunking, it eventually seemed to have solved itself...


UNTIL i had to swap transmissions today, and fubar the mount again


well, in the past i had bought a replacement from oreilly that seemed decently made, but completely lacking any of the fancy vacuum hydraulic stuff.

never installed it, and now wondering if its really even worth the 40 bucks i paid for it if its going to vibrate the hell out of the car or break?

mind you the OEM rear is anywhere from 150-250, which sucks considering i'll probably screw it up too

 

From what I understand, the hydraulic portion of the mount is only activated when the car is stopped and in gear. Thus when you come to a stop it unlocks the mount allowing the engine to 'float' with the loaded drivetrain and preventing any harmonics from affecting the occupants. I've been debating this myself as of late. The upper rubber mount that the engine/trans bracket bolts too seems fine, but the lower hydraulic portion does not seem to be working anymore. I've been meaning to override the vacuum diaphragm manually locking the mount to see if it would make a difference in vibrations/noise.

As for price, I thought for the CD chassis RockAuto actually had an Anchor brand vacuum mount listed for cheaper than the solid MT mount.

 

Explicit Speed Performance mounts? =Profit?

One of the more definite things on my list, my rear is DEFINITELY worn out to the max. Not to mention the lack of a solenoid to control it.

 

i had a friend who has a 6th gen accord try to install the manual mount on the automatic, it doesnt work

from what i found, there arent really much for options on that (firewall side) mount.


my car is stock except for intake and nicer magnaflow cat so power handling is not really a big deal

i mean i do like to crack vtec, a lot, but the vibrations from any mount have to be resonable

 

I believe the rear mounts differin the amount of bolt holes holding them onto the subframe. Something like manual trans LX/DX have the non-vac/normal mount and it's 3 bolts, while the manual trans EX's have the fluid mount and it's 4 bolts; Automatics have a completely different vac mount that also uses 3 bolts but it's possibly a different pattern than the LX/DX's. Been a few days since I looked at them.

Poly fill the mount?

 

mine was a vac / hydraulic with 4 bolts on the automatic , i haz a vtec


i went ahead and installed front and rear "anchor" mounts, fingers crossed

i have not fired up the car yet as i'm trying to fix a leak now at the same time, so i guess i'll know pretty quick if i wasted 45 bucks and an entire evening.


BTW: I managed to replace my rear mount without removing the intake mani or doing anything really massive, just took off the intake tube to make room

here, 14 and 17 mm flex gear wrenches and flexible 1/4" and 3/8" stubby 6" ratchets and a 12" flex ratchet, you got it made, you just gotta hold the tail of the ratchets in unintuitive ways

the bolt closest to the rear driver corner is easiest to get if you actually reach up over the cat and sway bar lol

forget about getting a tq wrench in there (on the 4 bolts to the mount), get it tight with your 6" ratchet of choice plus a little blue loctite, be done with it

 

wanted to add: dont use B12 to remove sticker residue from anchor brand mounts, the damn paint will come off

 

so i tried it out, did not solve problem at all really

turns out the rattling culprit is the timing belt side mount, which settled itself back into place and stopped making noise

the extra vibrations from not having the vacuum stuff is not bad, as soon as you take foot off brake it stops