Which are better...performance,price,quality,liabilty, and overall wisebut most importantly for the price they carry thanx


[Modified by thaigsrdrv16, 8:18 PM 10/25/2002]

 

Honestly, ITR's or CTR's are the best bang for the buck. I have a web site that backs up this info with dyno charts!

 

could you post the URL for this site??

 

go with the skunks...Ive only heard good things about them..

 

It all depends on what you are looking for price or performance. if you are going for price then I would go for the ctr or itr. If you are looking for good performance then I would go for skunk 2 stage 2, and also uprade the rest of your valvetrain

 

JUN are awesome cams if you have the $, CTR/ITR are the BEST for the street. SK2 I would run from at all costs (not trying to start a this vs. that post), Toda makes some pretty good cams but they are kinda spendy for what you get. Oh wait Crower.... hahaha.. ummm.. don't even bother with those cams. Hondasaveer cams--- I'm waiting for some firm numbers from.

performance wise I would say that Toda and JUN are close, and are great for drag/high end power.
ITR/CTR has some wonderful mid power and starts to lose it at the top, but if you're mainly street you won't be going to 84+ all that often.
Crower, SK2- well they're trying to catch up with everyone else... but havn't gotten there yet.
Hondasaver- has great potential, need to wait and see what they end up like.


[Modified by advanracing62, 12:09 PM 10/26/2002]

 

Skunk2 stage 1 or CTR cams for the buck. They can be simply droped in safely w/out changing the valvesprings if you watch your revs. If you go higher you'll have to buy valvesprings and run into more expensive labor charges.

 

What I never understood is why people just dont do it all at once. If your gonna upgrade the cams....why not go ahead and do gears, springs, ti retainers at the same time. Save urself some time and not have to open up the car more than once. Its like changing out a clutch. When your doing a clutch install and you figure sometime down the road your gonna do a flywheel also, mine aswell save urself the trouble of ripping out the tranny again and do it all at once. Just my .02$.

 

this man has a very good point

 

Because if you are simply going to buy mild cams you will not have to buy stiffer valvesprings. We're talking about the cost of labor being the factor now...notice he said cheapest... if you do higher lift cams you have to buy springs...adds to the cost... now disregarding the cost of valvesprings...if you just do the cams you can simply pull of the valvecover and do the work from there. However if you are doing valvesprings and retainers you will usually pull the cylinder head, unless you have the tool to change the springs, which is time and $$$ about 10-15 labor hours difference. Thats the difference... 10 hours X $65/hr. = $650 Now do you understand?

 

Nah, I dont think I will ever understand. Since when does changing the valve springs and retainers take 10-15 hours? Granted Ive never done it by myself, but at max I could see 3-4 hours of work. To change the srings also doesnt require a head pull. Also, you can still over rev, even with mild cams.....why not safeguard with ti retainers and some stiffer valvesprings? Im just saying that economically it might not be the best idea, but Im also saying that while your there, you mine aswell do the whole works. You never know what your gonna wanna do 2-3 months from then or better to safe guard against over rev. Just a million reasons that if you do cams, you mine aswell go ahead and do it all.

 

lol...Why don't you call up somewhere and ask them how much to replace your head gasket...then throw in a couple hours onto that for the cams, valve springs, and retainers.....

 

if you have the right tools, you don't have to pull the head to replace valve springs and retainers. All you need is pressurized air to hold the valves up while you change the springs and retainers. Done it about 20 times this way, great time saver!

 

thats why I mentioned it....Right after I said they usually pull the head...

 

thanx for the feedback guys...i was j/w.....what i am planning to do is order the whole JUN head package and install it at once..i was j/w between all the other cams because ive heard good stuff about them....thanx again

 

I have a JUN head package and I recommend the Skunks. Why, because they are cheaper and have proven to make just as much power and be just as dependable.

FYI, I have the JUN head package on my R motor and I DO NOT recommend the ECU.

 

FYI, I have the JUN head package on my R motor and I DO NOT recommend the ECU.

You wouldnt happen to own a CW ITR would you?

 

You would run from skunk2 because you are scared Advanracing62! Building a n/a vehicle skunk2 is what will do the job! I agree with our good buddy slowerthanu from SLC! You can combine the 2...

 

got skunk type 2 here. like the power plus good price. worth 20whp over stock gs-r cams. No cam tuning what so ever. dyno proven.