Hey guys, today something happened to my motor and now I'm really depressed. I was hoping someone on here would be able to point me in the right direction before i start a potentially expensive repair.

Backstory: Recently, i noticed my original 1999 integra GSR had been burning oil fairly quickly. About 3-4 days ago i got p1259 vtec malfunction and my vtec stopped working. Quick google search and found out it needed oil, replaced the oil, fixed the problem for a bit. I think the oil levels dropped since than because i noticed the engine sputter a bit once i touched vtec. Fast forward to today, when I was driving the car had really low oil apparently but i didn't realize at the time and on the way home from work, 4th gear just hit vtec ~5000 rpm and i hear like a crumpling sound kinda like rattling, its hard to describe, it wasn't very loud and and my engine immediately lost RPM's and started to "bog". The engine started to engine-brake really bad almost bringing me to a complete stop in 4th. The car continued to idle but sounds really hollow and doesn't sound powerful. I tried to give the car throttle, but if I press the gas pedal, RPMs would go down, and the engine bogs even more, If i hold the gas for really long it will finally get a few rpms but it doesn't sound good. I noticed an odd induction sound coming from the air intake, kinds like how it would sound if i were accelerating, but while idleing. Oh and there was no smoke coming out the back or the engine bay at any time. So i know I probably broke an internal due to overheating, but I have no idea where to go from here. I had to push my car from the side of the road all the way home . I tried replacing the missing oil but there was no change, I think the damage has been done. The car starts, and there's no leaks dripping out the bottom. I was dealing with P0325 knock sensor malf. at the time and an ignition timing test was in order, but I didn't get around to it so perhaps that has something to do with it im not sure. Oh and no new CEL codes were tripped during the whole event, i was able to check with a scanner.



If anyone has any idea what I broke and what I need to do next, please leave a reply!

 

how low did the oil get and did it sound like someone dropped a bunch of change into the engine? a rod sounds like a loud rythmic knock, a dropped valve sounds like change being thrown inside the engine. either way, the engine is toast.


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The oil level showed about 1/3 up from the bottom of the stick up to the minimum oil level mark. so 2/3 under the minimum... And it doesn't sound like either of those, no rattling or knocking. It sounds kind of like a propeller plane, just with really hollow ignitions.

Is the engine really toast? 12 hours later, the car started right up and was actually able to drive 10ft into place to be rolled onto a tow-truck before stalling out gently.

 

Check the valve timing, timing belt may have skipped a tooth.
DO NOT run engine until valve timing is confirmed. 94

 

Mechanic just left a message with my mom, said something about timing and $1600 for the repair. will keep updated

 

I would look at it myself if I where you, [unless you trust the mechanic] checking valve timing is easy.

What exactly is the $1600 for? 94

 

i'd think he dropped a valve ?


OP can you not pull the head and see what's up for your self

https://honda-tech.com/forums/honda-civic-del-sol-1992-2000-1/%5Bdiy%5D-how-remove-b-series-cylinder-head-2950764/ it's easy just time consuming

 

So heres the note the mechanic had my mom write out while i was at work.

Catalytic converter is completely broken apart internally - honeycomb in pieces and clogging exhaust.

Camshaft belt out of timing, water pump is not new and is recommended to replace with belt.

Water pump is not leaking now but if it leaks after job is completed at any time than labor will have to be redone and paid again! <wtf?

Price is with valve cover gaskets and diagnostics


Ok i still don't understand what part physically broke or is it just a tooth out of timing?i see water pump kits on ebay for pretty cheap would it be a good idea to say no thanks for that repair and do it myself?

 

It's always better to do it yourself, assuming you have the tools and skill to do it, none of which is that hard.

A skipped tooth on timing belt is pretty common.

If you are not having overheating problems then you could get away without the water pump, but as mentioned, 90% of the work is done when doing the timing belt, I have a 94 RS, 227,000KM and it still has the original water pump.

I would not buy a cheap eBay water pump, I would stick with OEM or quality aftermarket parts.

The Cat will need to be replaced, go aftermarket on it.

When doing the timing belt, do the tensioner at the same time as it may be the reason the belt skipped. 94

 

yes do it your self do you have tools ? 10-19mm sockets ? and a big breaker bar ?


look at this http://www.team-integra.net/forum/bl...nt-g3-teg.html

 

Would the repair be as straightforward as taking off the belt and setting everything back to TDC? I would replace the tensioner and the water pump also.

 

guess you didn't read the link I gave you....

http://www.team-integra.net/forum/bl...nt-g3-teg.html

 

I read through that whole post actually, i was just Wondering if fixing the timing would directly fix what i broke driving home that night. I have the sockets and i can buy the bar no problem.

 

Has car that uses oil, doesn't regularly check it, can't explain that. Good luck dude

 

if you didn't bend valves yes....it will

 

Fixing the timing problem,belt, water pump etc will do nothing for your massive oil consumption. Personally I think you would be better off buying a Jdm long block with 35-60k miles.

 

Thanks.

Alright sounds good, ill start preparing for the repair by buying the tools and reviewing your link. I believe my valve seals are really worn, would replacing my original valve seals reduce the consumption to an acceptable level? Previously my integra would burn oil on startup but it stopped happening once i started driving every day. But now the oil level is dropping without any smoke or leaks. Any ideas whats causing this? I was thinking perhaps my oil pump failed in my oil pan.

 

Hard call to do a leakdown test properly you'd need to first comp test but with a effed up belt that won't happen, all to determine if it's your rings or seals. see what i'm getting at....it's a chain. It wouldn't be the pan or pump it's up to you do a full rebuild on your current engine or get a new one.

 

Don't believe your mechanic. SOHC or DOHC 2.2l motors can not skip unless tensioner bearing failed; simply not enough slack to do it.
When your timing your motor and you find your off a tooth, even with the tensioner fully retracted, you can not turn the cam back or forth a tooth..........<period
You have to pull the belt off and place it back again.
If it starts at all and idles time could not have moved.
Get a book, pull the head, save $1000.
Unless the bottom end is damaged, $600 will put you back together.

 

I was dealing with this question from day 1,i strongly believe its my seals because my car would smoke only on startup after sitting a day or 2 and stop after its warm. If it were rings, it would smoke during acceleration and regular driving, right?
Well my motor is a 1.8 dohc (b18c1), and the motor does start right up. But my mechanic never said it skipped a tooth, just that the Camshaft belt is out of timing. Can anyone confirm this comment? And i am currently reviewing the helms manual.

 

Can't confirm that, from what I know it will burn oil all the time regardless if rings or stems seals a leakdown test can help you out but so will a wet compression test.


set the block to TDC(a long pencil down the spark plug well) then see what/where your cam gears are at. check this out and tell us.

 

Well my motor is a 1.8 dohc (b18c1), and the motor does start right up. But my mechanic never said it skipped a tooth, just that the Camshaft belt is out of timing. Can anyone confirm this comment? And i am currently reviewing the helms manual.[/QUOTE]Camshaft belt is out of timing = skipped one or more teeth, probably no more then one tooth or valves would be making contact with pistons.

At the very least, reset valve timing, do a compression test and a leak down test, it will give you a better idea of what may be wrong, DO NOT try and start engine until valve timing is redone. 94

 

uhh I think youre talking about a different engine. he has a b18 which most definitely WILL jump timing if the tensioner comes loose. it happened to me, bent every valve in my head.


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I had my belt skip to the point where one "UP" arrow was up on the other was all the way down so yes completely possible. Thank God the car was only idling at the time was still a pain to reset eveything