Alright so I Just completed a f20b swap in my 97 accord, and I took it out for a drive and there is no power, now im not saying I am trying to rev it to 8 or 9k and haul *** on the freeway but it seems like it get to around 4k rpm and struggles to get past.

Here is my set up
F20b
P13
Accord manual Tranny
*new* clutch/flywheel
Skunk2 Intake Man
AEM Cai
DC Headers
AEM Fuel rail
*new* IACV
*new* plugs, wires, dizzy
*new* TPS
using the f20b injectors got them cleaned up nice
91 octane fuel with booster for the first run want good fuel

Vtec has not been wired up to the ecu yet so I don't think that could be causing the problem.

I do hear a whistle when I hit the gas so I will double check for leaks but the idle is fine and it rev fine in neutral.

Any one have any suggestions that would help with this problem?

 

If you don't have VTEC hooked up yet it is definitely going to fall flat on it's face after 4000RPM. That is where that VTEC cam lobe kind of comes in handy.

The whistle is the CAI magnifying the sound of the fast moving air passing the throttle plate. That is normal for a CAI, that's why the stock intake was ribbed and had a resonance box. It canceled out the vacuum cleaner sound and whistle noises produced.

 

oh damn ok I guess I get my vtec wired up, just don't have all the plugs because my car is a lx. I'll have to hit pick and pull tomorrow to get a vtec wire, just a question how do I run it through the fire wall to get it to the ecu?

 

You can run it through the same port that the engine wire harness goes through on the passenger side.

 

alright thanks I will give it a shot I hope this fixes things

 

Have car running, unplug the MAP sensor, car should die. Snap it back on, start car.

I have a Prelude with an F20B, I had the slow acceleration, and a high pitched whistle, sounded as if I had a turbo, and car didnt want to go past 3500-4000. Did this random on a whim and it was normal after that.

 

oh sweet i'll try that also because I have that whistle sound too....

I now have a idle surge I thought I fixed this issue because I felt around and found a vac line with a slit in it and replaced it and the idle surge went away but now it is back and I have no clue what is causing it. I felt around again and went with a can of carb cleaner and the idle did not pick up at all.

Is it possible this is all because I am using the injectors that came with my F20b? Should I get injectors that come from the same lude as the p13 ecu? Im not sure how vtec would be causing this problem if no lines are hooked up too it to give it the signal to engage but im working on getting that hooked up now.

 

You also have an Accord transmission that's geared for economical driving. That's certainly not helping acceleration.

And the P13 is not the correct ECU for your car. The PCB ECU is. It's OBD2 so why don't you just order it and do away with the adapter harness you're likely using? Unless you have the uber-rare '96 P13.

 

because I am using a obd1 dizzy a td61u that I rewired. ok found some lose wires near the dizzy that were I thought solder together but I guess he missed them and just twisted them together, so I solder them together then put some heat shrink on it so it should hold them good, fired up the engine and still the same. i'm going to clean the map sensor and see if that is the problem or I might just buy a new one wouldn't hurt to have a new one so I know its good.

 

did you do as i said? i know your wiring, ect are probably different than mine, but given that I had the same exact symptoms, I would just try what I said, as I did it.

Also I'll bet the car struggles to get to 40? even full throttle is like nothing, right? Same ****, I made a vid when I was trying to figure it out:

THAT was full throttle at the time.

 

yea that's is pretty close to whats going on with mine except looks like you were alittle faster. and I did try what you told me too and still the same thing

 

your car should be running in limp mode since you have no vtec or knock sensor(and probably no iab's hooked up, not to mention possible vacuum wiring failure)...that's why it's running like ****. You should get a complete kit of vtec iab knock sensor kit from "axidworks" just google that name and vtec

 

ok I will order that now since I need it any way I hope it is what fixes the problem, until then I will keep checking all the wires and connections making sure all wires have a good solder to them and are hooked up correctly

 

so im waiting on my vtec kit to show up while I was bored I pulled some codes and I got 2 one for o2 and other for cat. Im not sure if my cat is clogged so I will take it off and take a look at it and order a new o2 sensor im not sure why its throwing a code its from my accord and all we did was lengthen the wires so it reaches the plug near the cat because it no longer has a plug up near the exhaust manifold.

 

You need to use shielded wires for the oxygen sensor wiring. It's very sensitive to radio interference. You may have spliced em wrong so just recheck or you don't have it pinned correctly. I still don't know what ecu you're using.

 

P13 runs 345cc injectors with a resistor box as they are low impedance OBD1, PCB runs 290cc injectors OBD2. I think you need to run the injectors that go with the ecu you are using.

 

the resistor box follows the injectors....you only need a resistor box for low impedance injectors...otherwise you don't use the resistor box...it's not up to the ecu it's all about the injectors

 

He should run the injectors which that ecu is tuned for. If its a stock P13 ecu then it needs 345cc injectors and a resistor box

 

Do you understand what I'm saying or are you saying that just because ?

 

I think he is saying that because the P13 ECU fuel and ignition maps are tuned for 345cc low impedance injectors not the F20B 290cc injectors. That the op should be running the OBD1 injectors that came with the ECU.

I would imagine that the P13 ECU running 290cc injectors would run the engine a little bit on the lean side. I know for a fact that if you run higher flowing injectors on an ECU tuned for lower flowing injectors it will run rich, or not run at all, if they are too far from stock flow.

The impedance of the injector will also determine the tuning of the fuel maps in the ECU. So therefore it would be in the ops best interest to ether run a set of 345cc injectors with a resistor box or the better option would be to run chipped and tuned ECU based on the 290cc injectors and F20B engine that is being run. That is if you can't run the OBD2 PCB. The PCB ECU would be the best option if it could be run. I have heard that there are issues with running the PCB though.....

 

Thank you Ghost

 

that is true you can not run the PCB so I guess I will need to get new injectors....$$$$$ 55.99 each!!!! sucks being poor but hey i'll get it some how so injectors from a 95 lude will do the trick. and also I think I will need the wire connectors to run those injectors I don't believe they are the same connector but not too such.

 

I understand completely what you're saying but nothing that has to do with the ecu has any bearing on whether a car needs a resistor box which is what my post was about.

This guy doesn't get that though.

 

I think your the one that doesn't get it really. The OP is using a stock P13 ecu. The P13 ecu runs 345cc low impedance injectors which needs a injector resistor box in stock form. Which means if he doesn't use the injector resistor box he will over heat the ecu and potentially kill the ecu.

 

I agree 100%. The P13 ECU itself has no bearing on injector impedance or the requirement to use a resistor box or not. You could just as easily run a high impedance injector with a P13 with the resistor box removed!

The usual cause of a burnt injector driver on an ECU is from running low impedance injectors without a resistor. Not the other way around. If the OP is running his high impedance F20B injectors without the resistor on his P13 ECU. The drivers/ECU is good to go, in a burnt driver situation anyway. The fuel flow is what would be different!