I threw on some rear discs from an integra on my civic and when I went to remove the passenger side of the toe / compensator arm I couldn't get it to budge.

I had to work it in and out, using heat, wd40, and finally I broke it out but pulled the whole inside of the bushing out. Lots of buildup inside the metal bushing and on the bolt.

Now what do I do to fix it?
Has anyone run into the same problem?




The only solution I can think of is to use a large washer on the outside flange where the bolt inserts and then get the Blox adjustable toe arm/ kit so I never have to mess with it again.... plus then I don't have to press in new bushings, just throw in the arms and measure them, then get an alignment.

Thoughts?


I am sure another Midwesterner has experienced the same thing? What did you do to fix it?


And what would be the proper way to remove this crap in the future? the whole bolt seized to the bushing collar problem... It was in such a bad spot to cut it and try to weld a nut on there then pull out the bolt inside of the chassis would prove nearly impossible for me.

 

The adjustable arm w/ washer sounds like a good plan. Hardrace, Ingalls and several other manufacturers make the arms too.
Maybe clean it up with a wire brush and some naval jelly or other rust inhibitor that chemically transforms the rust then flush it out with some acetone, thread the bolt in and spray paint it. I'd gob a ton of silicone grease in there to keep rust down in the future.
Harbor freight has brush sets that will get in there and clean all that.
http://www.harborfreight.com/10-piec...kit-95947.html
http://www.harborfreight.com/9-piece...set-90631.html
http://www.harborfreight.com/5-piece...hes-68155.html
Might want to run a tap through it? Get some new bolts from Honda?

 

That entire outside flange is welded on, I'd honestly look at another one considering how badly mangled it is.

Otherwise, without taking that approach, your best bet is mentioned above.

Just my 2c.

 

A trip to the wrecking yard will do the trick.
If you want to replace the bushing for something better than stock, I agree hardrace would be your best bet.

 

Wow, Your a harbor freight catalog! Those all look Perfect!

Really digging the painting, rust prevention, and grease ideas. I was even thinking of adding some blue loctite too even though I am sure the nut is a locking style nut but once its in there, I doubt I will have to take it out - though red or green is a little extreme in this situation its just a little adjuster arm for the rear trailing setup.


I guess I could also pop the tack welds, have somebody weld a washer in there and grind em flat and recut the factory groove, eah? OR if I go with the adjustable arm, slide the mount either all the way IN or OUT, that way the bolt rests on the channel. Once its tightened down good, it shouldn't plan on going anywhere.

Your 2c are well appreciated - Thanks


I would like to do that but I think the amount of time and the lack of air tools would be super frustrating. One question - Are the toe adjusters interchangeable? I will go take a look. I suppose it will be obvious.


I am putting energy suspension trailing arm and shock mount bushings in there, sorry for choosing the crappy poly stuff but I really liked the idea of not having to press in and out the metal sleeves. I have access to a harbor freight press but the guy doesn't have any press tools / good sizes of piping and we can never find something that fits the OD of the bushing.

I just threw on some Tein coilovers. I have been going through my history and I cannot find the picture of a trailing arm with 2 lines on it, one for a stock car ( which goes right down the middle of the trailing arm ) and another for a lowered car about 2 or 3 inches.

When I bolt the trailing arm back on and lower the car onto the ground can I reclock the bushing bolt rod easy enough?

While the car is resting, measure from the fender to the center of the wheel
Then jack the car off the ground, remove the tire, then jack up just the trailing arm back to where the car rests, then mark it where its going to rest, then unbolt the trailing arm bushing and re-clock it?

..edit
I found one similar picture with stock and lowered photos
http://www.performanceforum.com/wesv...g/bushing.html

See ya

 

Honda will sell the self locking bolts that are coated with some green coating for about $3. Worth it and no locktite required.

I think a washer will do fine once its all torqued to 47 ft lbs. Its all solid once torqued with that bushing in there, the rubber is the only part that flexes.
I recommend an OEM type trailing arm bushing. Spend the $130 on the schley tool and don't even worry about installing/removing trailing arm bushings ever again (it is EASY with the tool). You remove and install with the trailing arm on the car.


The poly bushings will crap out quick and make you hate yourself and want to die. Google some images for proof. Get OEM or at least OEM style copies from hardrace or dorman or some other supplier.

I used a 20 ton press and craftsman sockets to press in and out all the other bushings in my rear end. It takes a little fanagling with the sockets to get them all lined up (they don't fit EXACTLY) but with a little WD-40 and care of postioning they all pressed out and in with no injury or explosions. Just make sure everything is centered, supported and SQUARE. Use patience and take frequent breaks. The press makes a loud bang (and subsequent quieter bangs) when they start to budge that's a little nerve wracking. Use silicone grease to lube the arms/bushings when you press them in. I put the bushings in the freezer before pressing them in but that leads to condensation so use your own judgment.

 

I'm kind-of on a budget, and since I have access to a press the tool is un-necessary its just difficult because I would have to hand-grind a circle plate to push out the metal sleeve for the stocker.

No tool needed because the ES poly bushings that can be hammered, pressed, or make the tool. Instructions recommend going to the hardware store and buying a long enough bolt and big 1" 3/4 washers to pull it together.

Its too late as well, I already own the bushings, I need the car. Definitely throwing on the girly polly pocket bushings :[

Its just that I ran into the toe- adjuster problem and need to shell out more monies..

 

I haven't quite gotten around to do this yet.

i started to take the big bushings out, and it took forever with my assortment of hacksaws... FOREVER

So I got to get the torch out next time and see if it cuts more easily with the heat applied.

I did get the center piece out but I only cleaned that up a little also.

 

Hey those poly TA bushings will probably be ok. Let us know how they hold up ok?

 

Ok, it should all be well if I can get the clocked properly.

I got the black Energy Suspsension trailing arm bushes

 

havent fixed it yet, any other options?

It sucks I know I'm going to wreck the piece when I take it out

 

I bought OEM and the schley tool and it was not an issue, at all.

 

Fixed...


I will throw on adjustable arms in the near future... It torque down well, roller status now.

I didn't need a press to push in my energy bushings. I can twist the metal arm inside the trailing arm big bushing too, its not easy though... There is only one size for civics and tegras right?

They went in well after buying an 80 grit flapper sanding disc and getting an air tool. had to use a razorknife on the middle metal piece and then treat it to a wire wheel.'
Had both the pieces spotless...

Is clocking only for the metal sleeve bushings? is that why they are more recommended? they last longer?