So while driving my 1998 honda civic ex with d16y8 going from first to third gear it seems to like stutter I guess you can say. It doesn't fly through the RPMs smoothly. It just doesn't seem smooth yakno. If you need a video just let me know. I currently have an exhaust leak, idk if that has something to do with it. And I got new spark plugs, not wires or anything else yet. Maybe that'll help too. And I semi-cleaned my IACV. I just went over it with q-tips and cotton ***** with brake cleaner. Any suggestions or help? thanks!
oh, and the breather tube I think it is. The one that goes from the back left corner of the engine to the intake. Its a little broken, has a rip in it. What would that affect? thanks

 

Fix the exhaust leak, do a full ignition system tune up, replace the fuel filter, and then go from there.

Any CEL codes?

 

I'm not too sure on how to fix the exhaust leak, I'm thinking of purchasing a whole new yonaka exhaust. (i saw grumble recommend it for budget). And I'll finish ordering the rest of the tune up stuff.
And nope, no CELs.
But yesterday, I went to take the heat shield off the manifold and I unplugged the o2 sensor, then I plugged it back in obviously and a CEL came on, so i unplugged the battery and let it reset. no more CEL.
Thanks!

 

I have this same issue happening with my 1993 Del Sol Si with the 1.6. I just did a full ignition tune up this weekend and fuel filter. It is throwing a CEL. The codes are 8 and 9. Any ideas?

 

If you don't have any problems starting the car and it idles fine. but just sputters a little during acceleration; it could be the ignition coil. That was the issue with mine anyways.

 

So I replaced the muffler which fixed the exhaust leak, I did a full tune up, (wires,plugs,cap+rotor, fuel filter, air filter), I cleaned out my IAC thoroughly, I cleaned out my throttle body, today I cleaned my fuel injectors, and I'm still stuttering. I press the pedal down in second gear and the needle rides up the RPM gauge but not smoothly. It like hesitates I guess. I also found out that I got fucked from the seller of this car. Turns out the engine was never swapped and is original engine with 186k miles. So I'm biting the bullet and trying my best to make light of it. I figured if I'm stuck with it i'll give it my all. Thanks guys for helping

 

Test ICM and coil.

 

Also check your ignition timing.

 

No one suggested a compression test ??. OP run a compression test once you've driven the car around a bit.

 

I've ran a compression test and all my cylinders have low compression. All read about 120. I since then purchased a leak down tester but am pretty hesitant to use it yet. I'm not completely comfortable with finding TDC. And I don't want to buy a new valve cover gasket to run the test yet.

 

Should have said that in your OP 120 is TOO LOW and something is wrong. anyway the valve cover gasket doesn't matter, I've done them(comp/leakdown test) without the valve cover on do the leakdown test could just be your valves which is an easy fix over piston rings.
here finding TDC on a d-series is simple https://honda-tech.com/forums/honda-civic-del-sol-1992-2000-1/d16y8-valve-adjustment-top-dead-center-question-3030058/ just read a bit, yes I know it's easier on a B H or K as you can stick a pencil down the sparkplug tube as it's right above the piston. you can probably do the same trick on a D also tho.

 

Before you do a leakdown test, do a wet compression test. That'll help you pinpoint whether it's a top or bottom end leak.

Regardless, you're only a hair below minimum service spec (130, IIRC), and I don't see that causing the problem you're having.

 

Yeah, I just don't want to have to replace the valve cover gasket. Unless it's possible to do the test with the head on. (if thats what you're saying). And I'll do a wet compression test. But still, 120 is low regardless of wet or dry I think, which bothers me too on top of everything else. And how will I know for sure if it's my valves? and when saying valves does that mean the valve it self or like the stem seals? Thanks a lot guys

 

I think you're referring to the head gasket which is sandwiched between the head and block the valve cover gasket is the little rubber thing that sits on the valve cover. when you do the wet test if the compression jumps by a fair bit(70+psi) then your rings are on their way out. just don't put too much oil in or you'll throw off the test you'll hear air hissing threw the head or more so the intake/exhaust manifold if it's your valves. and by valves I mean the valve it's self vs. the stem seal.


@jbpnoman I'm probably thinking of the B18c1-5's in which if your psi is 120 you're in some serious trouble 180 is the line for an "ok engine"(at least that's what most of us in the integra forum go by).

 

No, I know the difference between gaskets. I just heard every time you remove the valve cover you're suppose to replace the valve cover gasket. That's what I'm trying to avoid doing. But if need be, i'll order a new gasket to do the leak down test if necessary. I'll also pick up some oil to do a wet test.

 

I don't know the compression specs for a B18 off the top of my head, but 130 or 135 is the minimum "service range" for a D16Y8.

You should be able to do a leakdown test without removing the valve cover. The write-up here on H-T says to remove it...but I don't see a reason why you actually need to, other than possibly making it easier to hear what's going on.

 

 

So I had just ran a leakdown test on my car. I used a long thin extension to find TDC. I figured it was TDC when the it has reached it's peak.

Here's my numbers.

Cylinder
#1 - 40% leakage. And I didn't hear anything from intake/exhaust or see anything from radiator.
#2 - 45% leakage. Again, nothing from intake/exhaust or see anything from radiator.
#3 - 35% leakage. Again, same as other cylinders.
#4 - 35% leakage. Same as others.

I ran the tests like 3 times in each cylinder because at one time I had 60% leak in cylinder 2 and heard air from intake. So I tried again and my results changed.

Also today I filled my coolant reservoir with cold purified water because it was dried up empty. And I let the car run while hot for 10% with the cap off then I blasted heat for a few then let it run with cap for like 2 minutes. I saw air bubbles release so I think that did good.

1 more thing before I leave, I rev'd my engine and saw a hint of white smoke from my exhaust. Also water is spraying out. I did something retarded the other day and put water in the muffler. But I thought It'd dry by now. But yeah, the white smoke. Its not ALOT but its not nothing. headgasket? maybe thats why my compression sucks dick too?

Thanks guys

 

Certainly sounds like your head gasket is damaged. If it isn't coming from the intake, exhaust, or radiator, the only other place it could be going is to the adjacent cylinder.

You can try a block test to confirm. Most auto parts stores sell or rent block testing kits, and you should only have to buy the disposable part, which is the testing strip.

 

Hey guys, just a little update.
Went to Autozone and rented the Block Tester.
I performed the test twice and both times the liquid stayed as blue as it was when I first put it in the container. So I guess that rules out a BHG.
I drained the coolant a bit before anyone asks to make sure it didnt fault the test.
My engine is still low on compression for some reason and idk wtf is causing it.
Thanks guys