My Accord started running very bad a couple of weeks ago. I have no idea what happened but it's progressively getting worse. I went out one night and on the way back I felt it was down on power. I haven't changed the place I fill up or anything, just felt a slight decrease in power. A few days later (still running bad) it started acting up more. When I am waiting at a light the idle would dip low and come back up. A noticeable shake would happen, especially after the car warms up. It's really hard to take off from a stop, I feel like I have to let the clutch slip a lot more to not feel a jerk or to stall the car. Also sometimes between 2k-3k the car starts jerking as if I am pumping the gas pedal even when I am just keeping it where it is. The only way to stop it is to let go a bit or completely and apply the throttle again. When going up hills at a constant speed I can feel the car "skip a beat" like a misfire but it happens randomly, no way to predict if it will happen or when.

So far I have replaced the ICM with a brand new, original one, the fuel filter, spark plugs, wires, distributor cap and rotor. I am out of ideas. Can it be fuel delivery like injectors?

Any input is appreciated. Thanks!

 

How are your injectors/o2 sensor ? If your injector is clogged it could imitate some of those symptoms. Use some lucas injector cleaner, stuff works wonders.

Also visually inspect the front o2 sensor

 

I will buy some and try the injector cleaner, plus I will take a look at them over the weekend as I am busy right now. I really need to figure out what is going on because the car is almost undriveable.

 

the ecu should be the last thing you should be replacing and those are almost the most expensive part on your car so I'm really surprised you forked over the money to replace htat

You probably have multiple issues. Since it's happening at idle I would first clean out the iacv....then replace the oxygen sensor and see if that fixes it...whether or not you wind up needing to you should clean out your egr valve and egr ports while you're at it. There's a sticky in the faq's for how to do this and there's a vid on youtube by Eric the Car Guy for how to do it as well. It's actually pretty easy on your car compared to most hondas.

 

I actually replaced the ICM (ignition control module), sorry had a typo. I did however tried running the car with my friend's automatic EX ECU and it runs the same other than the check engine light for the lockup solenoid (expected). I cleaned the IACV about 10k ago when I installed my F23 IM and also cleaned the EGR ports before I put it on. Next on the list then is the O2 sensor. Could my injectors be acting up? I am at around 220k.

 

I unplugged the O2 sensor and the car ran like a champ. Ordered a new one and hopefully it fixes the issues.

 

With the O2 disconnected the car will run in open loop. This is not really the best way to 'test' the O2, since the ECU will be ignoring it and run off pre programed tables.
If the inside of the sensor is bust it may not set a code, but when removed it will jingle like a bell. Back-probing the leads to watch voltage is the best route to monitor the sensors function.

I would not bother using a torch, just test it in situ, back probe the sensor and watch the voltage. If it is slow or does not change much when hot, then the sensor is damaged or lazy, which will require replacement.

Use Denso brand if you are replacing. In use the large Bosch body units tend to cool off rather easily and will not work well.

 

Thanks for the help, that is what I will try tomorrow. I did order a Denso unit as I prefer to use whatever the manufacturer intended. I found what Denso part number corresponded to the Honda part and went ahead and ordered that to save some money.

With the O2 sensor disconnected (so open loop) the car still has some signs of stuttering and "skipping beats" so I am beginning to think that it's something else too. What are the chances of my coil in the distributor being bad? Or injectors? FPR not doing it's job properly?

 

check for any stored codes

 

This.

 

I've been messing with the car every night for a week now. The O2 sensor I tested as suggested and was not functioning properly. I replaced that with a new Denso unit. I have no stored codes. I did try using my friend's fuel rail, FPR and injectors but the car still doesn't perform as it should. I am beginning to give up and just drive it as is...

 

Have you checked the basics, like spark plugs, spark plug wires, coil, cap, Compression? Since you borrowed a buds Fuel Rail that you also checked Fuel pressure?

 

Spark plugs are properly gapped (have 5k miles on them) and the wires are brand new NGKs. The cap and rotor are also new. I did a compression test a few months ago and all were fine. I don't remember exact numbers but they were within 5 psi of each other and all were pretty high. I did look up where they need to be back then and when I checked they were.
The coil on my car (EX) is internal and I can't swap with my friend's (LX) because his is external. Anything I can do to see if the spark is good?
As for fuel pressure, no I have not measured it yet. The filter is new but I don't know if that is enough. I haven't had any issues with the fuel pump though.

 

Was this BEFORE or AFTER your current problem occurred?
If before, those numbers need to be rechecked.


Help us, help you.

 

Speaking of fuel pressure is it possible my car has a weak fuel pump? Its not that my car is running bad or anything its running fine its just when I open the fuel cap fuel doesn't spray out like it says it can on the cap and my car is over 20 years old possibly the pump is that old too and maybe worn out. I can definitely feel compressed air escape from the tank when I open the gas cap so I know there is pressure build up I just like to think of the possibility that the pump is not working at %100 and thus reducing my power and gas mileage.

 

To the OP: I can imagine that you may have a lot of air in your cooling system. Try to properly burp the system.

Is the car a 5 speed or an auto?

 

seriously dude don't thread hijack please...this has nothing to do directly with the OP's issue

 

OP, does it do it when the car is cold as well as when the car is warm ?

When it starts acting up, let it idle and "gently" start wiggling wires to see if you can find the culprit. This really sounds like you might have an intermittent wire open somewhere. I would start with the tps sensor, then the map sensor..and so on.

 

Just an idea and doesn't cost much - have you cleaned the egr ports? While at it, I'd clean the egr valve as well.

 

I had similar issues when I measured the compression but no it's gotten way worse. I will measure both compression and fuel pressure when I get the chance next week.


Car is good on coolant and I have no air in the system. It is 5 speed.


Warm or cold the car does the same thing. I will try what you've suggested. When I feel it act up I'll pull over and see what's going on.


The EGR ports and the valve itself I very thoroughly cleaned two weeks ago. They weren't in bad shape.

Thanks again for all the help!