Vibration Question
On my 93 accord LX, I have a GNARLY vibration when coming to a stop and when stop, Im talking imagine a bad vibration, and multiply it by ten lol.
Im aware that it's the mounts. So I bought the front/transaxle mount, and the rear. I just got done taking out the front mount, to find that it is completely shredded and useless. So I change it with the nice new mount, and the vibration is just as bad. You would think that it would help a little being that the old one was so bad?
Thanks for your help. My next step is to do the back mount. Do you think this will be the culprit? I would like to avoid doing all 4 !
Im aware that it's the mounts. So I bought the front/transaxle mount, and the rear. I just got done taking out the front mount, to find that it is completely shredded and useless. So I change it with the nice new mount, and the vibration is just as bad. You would think that it would help a little being that the old one was so bad?
Thanks for your help. My next step is to do the back mount. Do you think this will be the culprit? I would like to avoid doing all 4 !
The 'front' mount is merely a limiter from keeping the engine rotating too much if the firewall mount goes. Heavy vibration while idling, if the engine is in good tune, it may be the firewall mount.
Try and see if any places do a free brake inspection- when I first got my Prelude the deceleration vibrations were pretty intense. Had Pep Boys do a free inspection and I ended up replacing the front rotors, pads, and calipers (rotors were only $15 apiece and I got calipers from the junkyard). No more vibration after that. It could also be a few other things, but at least the inspections free and you'll be able to eliminate one possibility.
Do you have an IFR temp reader? Some can be had for ~$30 - check places like harbor freight.
You can check the temp of the manifold - right at the end where the hot gas would "hit" the manifold and then go down the pipe. Compare the temps of the four.
If the "miss" is bad enough, pulling the plug wire off each cyl one at a time will do the same. Pull one at a time, if the engine "changes" then that cyl is "working". If you pull a wire and there is no change in the the way the engine runs.....there is your issue.
You can check the temp of the manifold - right at the end where the hot gas would "hit" the manifold and then go down the pipe. Compare the temps of the four.
If the "miss" is bad enough, pulling the plug wire off each cyl one at a time will do the same. Pull one at a time, if the engine "changes" then that cyl is "working". If you pull a wire and there is no change in the the way the engine runs.....there is your issue.
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Tire Monkey
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