Hello,

This is my first post. Thanks for your help in advance.

I am trying to get my sons car going. Bear with me while I explain everything. We bought this car from someone after the cam sprocket twisted off the camshaft. I replaced the cam shaft and cam sprocket with one out of a junk yard.. . Tried to start it and it would not start. I have owned a few accords and know all the problems they have. I checked the main relay and it was fine so I replaced the fuel pump and it fired up. Now the only issue was it had a very rough idle which turned out to be a bent valve and so we decided to replace the engine. (Key point )So as it sat in the drive we would still start it to move it a round. Well one day it would not start at all. I couldn't hear the fuel pump any longer and there was no fuel squirting out at the fuel rail. So I just thought the fuel pump went bad again. I said we will replace it when we get the new engine in.

Fast forward and the new engine is in now. I changed the fuel pump and ready to start it up. The new fuel pump was not turning on. Checked the relay and the fuel pump would only turn on when I ran a separate ground to the relay ground. I fixed that by a loose ground at the water pump. When I transferred the wiring over I must of just finger tightened it. Anyways after I tightened it up the fuel pump turns on. So I crank and crank and it will not start. So here is everything I know and have tried.

1. When I turn the key to the on position the CEL comes on for about 2 seconds and you hear the pump prime and the CEL light goes out

2. The starter turns the engine and everything turns over just fine.

3. I know I have spark. I attached an inductive timing light to each plug wire and the timing light flashes strong with each rotation.

4. I know I have fuel pressure. I hooked up a Fuel pressure gauge to the fuel rail and I have 40 PSI.

5. The plugs are wet when I remove them after cranking after a few try’s.

6. I did a compression test and my book says 178 is normal and 153 is min. All cylinders tested in upper 170's.

7. I have checked all fuses.

8. It has new NGK plugs and new NGK wires. New cap and rotor. These parts were on the old engine and did work when it started back then.

9. I did re solder the Main relay . I even tried another relay I pulled from a junk yard and I soldered it as well and it made no difference.

I see the check engine light come on for a few seconds and I hear the pump. I have Fuel, spark and Air. Even when I unplugged the Distributor to check compression the ECU tripped a 15 code. I cleared it and things act normal again.

So it seems to me I am having the same problem I had before I switched the engines. Since I am using the same intake and same ECU and all the same wiring and fuses , relays etc I have transferred over the same no start issue to the new engine that I had before. I am thinking ECU?

What are some tests I can do to troubleshoot the ECU.

Any help or suggestions would be very helpful.

Thank you,
John Hershey

 

I'd recheck the spark, the light flashes but its it enough to actually "lite the fuel".

Double check the fireing order.

Recheck the main ground on the thermostat housing - where the lower hose connects to the engine.

 

I checked the order this morning and everything is correct. The cap has a A mark on it I have that going to 1 which is the first plug starting at the cam side. Then it goes 3 is next (which goes to plug 3 which is 3rd from Cam side) and then 4 (Last Plug)and finally 2. I have brand new NGK wires which come marked 1234 with the longest being 1 and the shortest being 4 besides the short coil wire.

It wont hurt to recheck that ground but as I stated it was loose and the main relay wasn't getting a good ground but that was caused by when I transferred the wires over to the new engine. I just had it finger tight. I don't mind checking it.

Someone else said the same thing as you that it might be the coil and even though I see the flash it is not strong enough to ignite the fuel. I tried the spray carb cleaner in the intake and it didn't even try to start.

Thanks for your suggestions and I will recheck that ground.

Thank you,
John

 

Did you use ur old computer with the replaced engine? Does the green key light come on the dash? If the key is not compatible you will need to bypass the key security or get the correct ignition key.

 

Second thoughts, I thought it was a 98 Accord not sure if 93 has security key.

 

Does the tach move while cranking?

 

Are your spark plug wires going in the clockwise order on the distributor ?

 

holmesnmanny
Re: 93 Accord Has Fuel, Spark and Compression still no start
Are your spark plug wires going in the clockwise order on the distributor ?

Yes the spark plug wires go clockwise looking at it from the right side passenger side. 1/3/4/2

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DCFIVER
Re: 93 Accord Has Fuel, Spark and Compression still no start
Does the tach move while cranking?

The Tach does not jump when I try starting it.

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I did try testing the coil according to my Haynes...... everything seems fine. I did stop at Pick N Pull (Junk Yard) and bought another external coil TEC TC-19A installed it and had same results.

One more thing to mention is while I am cranking the battery light comes on and off. My Battery is strong and has plenty of power and when I am not cranking it I trickle charge it. I have 12.42 Volts .

Thanks everyone for your advice and I am not giving up until that engine runs!

Thank you,
John

 

With out an RPM signal the vehicle will not start. You should scope the signal....

 

I think I might be on to something. So with all the cranking once the new engine was in I noticed a small oil leak under the Distributor. This was right after I installed the engine and it wouldnt start. So I replaced the Distributor O ring. Well while I was checking things tonight I pulled the cap and there was oil in the cap. So the O ring fixed the dripping but the bearing\Seal is shot and letting oil in the distributor. So I pulled it all apart to rebuild the Distributor and change out the bottom bearing and seal. I have a box full of accords and civics distributors. Well I noticed everything covered in oil and also all the wires that go to the pickups were hard and brittle and cracked and bare wires exposed. I am pretty sure the crank sensor and timing is all in the Distributor and I bet it is shot and not letting it start. So I will set out tomorrow to get a nice one out of a bone yard. Stay tuned I am pretty sure this is my problem. I have spark but I think it is weak because of all the oil in there and also the pick up sensor wires are shot. I will keep you all posted.

Thank you,
John

 

It is possible to mount the distributor 180 degrees out if you have to jam it into the head when you mount it. The key is offset to try to prevent this from happening but it is possible and does happen from time to time.

 

I dont see how that is even possible. If I have the cam at TDC by hand spinning it at the crank to where the pointer on the TB cover is pointing at the TDC mark on the Crank and I have the Dist. Rotor pointing at the number one wire which means both are straight up and down then to me it is hard to spin that 180 degrees and not notice that. If you did that then it would not be pointing at the number 1 wire on the Dist correct?

 

Correct.
And while the dist can be installed 180 off,it takes some work to jam it in,whereas when it is installed correctly,it goes right in with little to no effort.

 

You may be on to something,follow this path.....