Did a search and came up with nothing,

Question is, I bought an inline afpr for my circle track accord, I was wondering do I have to remove my stock fpr and make up a block off plate. Or where I am only looking to lower the pressure, can it stay as is and just hook up my afpr before the stock regulator?

I done a search for stock psi and found 39 psi is that correct ? My plugs are pretty black after 20 laps. I was looking to drop to about 35psi

Any insight would be greatly appreciated

 

where you want to drop the psi you could try installing it in front of the fuel rail and leaving the OEM FPR installed.

These fuel systems are fuel return so you can't block off the FPR port as it is in the return line. If you want to remove the stock FPR. You would have to buy/make an adapter plate so that you could hook up your AFPR down stream of the fuel rail.

Stock fuel pressure for the 96 F22B1/2 is 30-37psi at idle (with vacuum) and 37-45psi with no vacuum.

Are you running a completely stock engine and ECU or has it been modified?

 

Thanks for the reply , yes completely stock engine and ecu. Just a aem intake, and a 2.25" mandrel bent flow master super 40 downpipe back I made up at my shop.

So I can hook up the inline anywhere that's in front of the filter and behind the rail correct? And I will have to tee off for the vacuum and share to both fpr's?

 

Sorry, after thinking about it a bit more, No. You have to remove your OEM FPR and make/buy an adapter plate that you can run a hose off the fuel rail in the OEM FPRs place. You then need to hook up your AFPR in that line so it is located in the fuel system after the fuel rail & injectors. It will end up between the fuel rail and the return line to the gas tank. You can then use the OEM vacuum hose to your AFPR.

This is a crude diagram to show fuel flow direction in the system;

Gas Tank & Fuel Pump ---> ---> Fuel Filter ---> ---> Fuel Rail & Injectors ---> ---> Adjustable FPR ---> ---> Back to Gas Tank.

Here is an example of FPR adapter plate that is available;

Honda FPR Adapter Plate

 

Excellent info man. Easy for me to make that plate as we own a machine shop, I have another question for you, I have a donor car with a good f22b1 VTEC , im wanting to swap out my f22a1 or 4 (not sure what one I have exactly), I done some research on the swap and my understanding is it will bolt up, connectors will aswel but I have to run the VTEC wire from a certain pin on the VTEC computer to the solenoid? Is this correct ?

 

What year is the donor car/F22B1, is it OBD1 94-95 or OBD2 96-97?

Still physically bolts up no problem, however you will need a new exhaust manifold and down pipe. The F22A and F22B have different exhaust manifold configurations. and depending on the year there could be some other electrical wiring swaps that need to be done.

Here is a kind of hit and miss F22B1 into CB7 Accord swap guide. The basics are there.

http://www.cb7tuner.com/vbb/showthread.php?t=138663

I only read the first couple of paragraphs and already saw a glaring issue. Do not run an F22B1 with a Prelude H22A1 P13 ECU. Use the P0A ECU that it comes with.

 

Thanks for the link, the donor car is a full running 1997 accord ex,
I also picked up a full running 1998 Honda accord with the f23a1, 235 cold cranking psi, low km. Rear end damage, would this be a better swap for my application?

 

Definitely!

So is your circle track car a 90-93 or 94-97 Accord? You mention a 1996 in your thread tittle. If it is a 96 it should have ether a Non VTEC F22B2 or a VTEC F22B1. Unless the F22A* has been swapped in. The engine code can be found on the plate just to the right of the exhaust manifold on the block.



If it is a CD chassis (94-97) The F23 is pretty much a direct drop in. The 3 wire IACV, saturated injectors and adding VTEC (if Non VTEC chassis) are really the big wiring issues.

 

Is it a bolt in swap?

 

Yes its a 1996, I'm headed to the shop now and I will check the block and take a picture .

 

I'm not sure on how to attach a picture. Maybe because I'm using my phone, engine tag says 22B2

 

OK so it is an F22B2,

The F23 will still be your best upgrade of the two spare engines that you have.


Ether way you will have to get a VTEC ECU and add the wires. If you use the F23 you will also have to add wires for the 3 wire RACV, it takes the place of the F22B1/2 2 wire IACV on the back of the intake plenum. Or for race applications you could probably just block it off.

 

Well I have the ecu that belongs to the f23. As the car is still mobile, when you say I have to add wires for the VTEC and racv, does this mean everything else will clip up the same? I'm trying to get all the info I can, I'm going to have a friend of mine that's a certified Honda tech for 20+ years help tackle the wiring on the car, trying to figure out whats intailed so we know what im up against and make sure I have all of what I need to do so.

 

If you have the complete donor car you can actually swap the entire harness and ECU over from the 6th gen Accord into the 5th gen. That way you wouldn't have any connector or sensor issues.

 

That's what we'll do. Thanks for your time.

If I run into any problems I'll pm you if that's OK

Thanks again.