Hey guys, I've done a lot of searching and reading, but keep finding confusing and sometimes conflicting information. If anyone could clarify some things for me it would be much appreciated.

This weekend I'm putting an OBD2 H22A4 in my 96 Accord LX with a jumper harness and OBD1 P28 w/ Hondata S300. The motor has what I think is a JDM distributor because its OBD1 and has internal coil. It also has OBD1 H22 injectors, but it still has the OBD2 CKP sensors behind the pulley.

My understanding so far, is that I can just plug in the OBD2 CKP sensor as is to my Accord engine harness, and on the OBD1 H22 distributor, simply pull out the appropriate wires from the connector, and repin them into connector from my F22 distributor and plug it right into my engine harness without having to do any other real wiring.

As for the coil, all I need to do is put a 30A fuse across the wires that go to my external coil and it will then run off of the internal.

Can anyone verify this, or correct me if I am mistaken?

 

I guess an easier way to ask the question is should I use the sensors behind the crank pulley, or should I make a harness like this and use all the sensors in the distributor?

 

That distributor conversion kit looks pretty sweet. You're going to use the existing obd1 distributor and plug the two right connectors in this kit into it. Then you will run the top left one over to your existing crank harness. You will obviously be ignoring the h22a4 crank sensor as you will be using obd1 which runs off the distributor. Should be no reason to depin anything. But you will need to confirm with the obd2 to obd1 conversion harness you're using just be to sure.

You will be using the obd1 injectors...i'm assuming you're confirmed they are, in fact, obd1 since you already have a resistor assembly and that requires obd1 injectors.

 

Thanks for the feedback. The thing is I don't actually have this conversion harness, so I'm going to have to build one in order to do that. I was hoping that the signal from the A4 crank sensor would be compatible with my obd1 ecu, and I can just plug it right into my engine harness and not have to change a thing. Then on the distributor side, I can pull the remaining 4 wires out of the obd1 connector, and pin them into one of the smaller 4 pin connectors like in that picture so then I can again plug right into my engine harness. Basically it would be like the right side of the adapter harness only, the wires running to the top left connector would not be used since I'd be using the ones off the A4 crank sensor.

I just don't know if the signal from the obd2 sensor is compatible with an obd1 ecu.

 

Forgive my crappy drawings, but I think this will illustrate my question a lot better.

I can build a harness and do it like this....


But it would be much easier for me to just do this...



But will it work like this? Can the obd1 ecu run using that sensor?

 

Your best bet is to just buy it from here

http://www.rywire.com/catalog/obd2-u...pter-p-71.html

 

I don't think you quite understand what's going on and what needs to happen for your swap to work.

Right now two sensors located at the crank are used by the ecu to set ignition timing. However, on obd1 cars those two sensors are instead inside the distributor. Currently on your harness those two wires go from the crank sensor area to the ecu. With that kit the wires will go from the distributor to that kit to that crank sensor area harness then to the ecu.

 

I completely understand what's going on and how it works. And I understand what you are trying to say, I KNOW it will work that way, but does anyone KNOW if it will work using the obd2 sensor behind the crank pulley, or are you just assuming it won't work? The sensors behind the crank pulley have exactly half as many teeth as their obd1 counterparts have that live inside the distributor. Since the crank spins twice as fast as the camshaft and therefore the distributor, they should provide the same signal to the ECU's.

If all goes well I should know the answer tonight or tomorrow. I got the motor yanked last night. Going to do all my 5 spd conversion stuff this morning. Hopefully will have the motor hanging by this evening, if I get that far I doubt I'll stop til it's ready to fire up. Also doing a 1 inch MC/booster, rear disc upgrade, springs, exhaust, and need to program the hondata. so I've got my work cut out for me. I should probably stop reading HT and head back to the shop now.

 

lol nope never seen that done before and the reason is probably because nobody was dumb enough to bother tryin lol...not trying to be mean just kinda bein honest

my guess is that it won't work but I really haven't studied the mechanicals of it