What suspension setup is good for a wagovan? Im thinking of form function type 1. But idk what you guys think? Opinions welcome.

 

Function and Form is "JDM" "low and slow" garbage. Koni yellow/with ground control coilovers. You can also order a custom spring rate free of charge...

But it also depends on what you want to do with your car...

Here's a hint though, never cheap out on suspension or you will hate your ride quality.

 

i have koni and gc

 

FF Type 1 rode like complete **** on my 1990 wagon:





Ditched those and picked up some Eibach Pro Street-S full coil-overs for the regular 90-91 EF Civic - there are no wagon-specific set-ups:





Eibachs ride AMAZING. They are probably a touch soft for most people, but for my DD wagon they are perfect. My son used to ride in my wagon as an infant, and the ride is so smooth it was has never been an issue with anyone riding in the car. Only "problems" are that the mudflaps scrape everything LOL!

***DISCLAIMER***

You are extremely limited with any set-up you buy for an EF and install on a wagon. Standard lowering springs will require cutting coils from rear springs to ride level. Coil-overs require setting the front jacked all the way up, and the rear slammed as far down as they'll go just to get an EVEN ride height.

 

Did the eibach fit perfect. Cause i was looking them up and they said no wagons?

 

that setup looks way better and seems to have a better build quality than the ground control with koni setup. which i have.

 

Yes they bolt in 100% perfectly with no mods needed, BUT re-read my reply and you'll see where I said you're extremely limited for ride height choices because the EF Wagon rear suspension is unique to wagon only in that the length of the shock is totally different on a wagon - when using non wagon EF suspensions on a wagon you have to jack one end of the car's spring perches all the way up, and lower the other end's perches all the way down just to ride level.

I rode on Koni Yellows with custom GC/Eibach ERS spring rates on my Type R-powered 1992 Civic, and while the build quality is really nice on the Konis the Eibach Pro Street-S utilizes KW dampers. The piston size is HUUUGE and they use progressive rate rear springs, with linear front springs with helper springs as pictured.

I've also owned Neuspeed/Bilsteins, and while those were bad *** the Eibachs still take the cake.

I've been daily driving my wagon for over FOUR YEARS on the Eibach Pro Street-S set-up, and it still rides like a champ. For a DD I cannot think of how the ride could be any better. It would be **** for auto crossing, or any sort of road course though b/c the rates are SOFT for that kind of driving.

 

yeah i noticed my GC setup is kinda limited on how low the rear can be dropped. its low but if anyone wants to go super low, well its not gonna happen.

 

My Koni/GC is all the way raised in the front on my hatch, and I only have 1 finger gap...

 

Not being a dick here - do you have a wagon, or a hatch? I know, technically a wagon IS a hatch, but for the discussion at hand there's a definite difference between the hatch and wagon suspensions.

 

I said "hatch" in my post. I was referring to 949 who said you cant go that low with koni/gc.

I know the wagon is different.

 

it seems that the wagons have a lower starting point vs the other civic's at where the top hat sits on the suspensions on the rears.

my front is ok. i have a good amount of play up or down.

as for the back its all the way down. it sits very nice for me but if i want it more lowered, its done.
im getting corner balanced next week so i cant drive it till its done. sucks...

 

I like my progress CSII pro kit.
350f/350r for street on for track days I saw them out for 500lbs spring.

 

you know you could do a mix match koni shock setup.

run eg koni shocks up front (will have to run eg forks). this will give you about an 1/2" to 1" increase in height.

for the rears, you could get custom koni's. they will cost a bit more, but at least your have more adjustment with the shock being shorter.

thinking about it a bit more, it might not cost you that much more to just shorten the shock.... maybe. you're not getting the race valving. just shortening it.... but im not %100 sure. it still might cost you an extra $100 to get them shortened. id call and ask them if it would cost more for a shorten rear shock.

another option for the rear, get a shorter spring with your koni's.

****** or if you where to make custom top hats........ like a 2" high top hat.......

 

well as an update, i looked at my rears closer i noticed that the shock is too long. it's what won't allow me to drop it too much more as i bottom out on the bump stops.

so what your saying is that there are shorter koni shocks?

 

yea, you can actually send in your shocks to get them to chop them down to shorten them. only thing is when you do this you usually get the whole package deal. as in race valving (spss3) with the shortening. this in turns actually makes them into the koni race shocks.

you'd have to call and ask if you can just send them in to get shortened. how much that would cost..... im thinking it's about $100 a shock, and since they are now considered custom, i think you lose your lifetime warranty.

have you thought about running extended top hats? you don't have to worry about the extended hats hitting anything. just that you might have to run a super high hat. somewhere along the lines of 2" or higher. that would then get you another inch or two.

 

i do have the extended top hats.

 

yea, but are they just the regular gc top hats? don't think they are tall enough.

but you can go the route of getting them shortened.

 

yeah they arent really tall enough. i was just messen around with the rear suspension today. installing some rear toe link from password jdm.
anyways, i lowered it a little more. ill see how it rides later. im getting it to where it almost touched the bump stop when i hit a dip or someting on the road. so till the road test i wont know if im at the max lowered height.