Hello,

I have had my ems for a year. I tune it myself as i do not have local aem tuners in my country.

In this year, i worked out most of the aspects of the box, my car drives well, on the street and highway, idles well, I have no issues, I have lifted my head twice in this year and have no signs of detonation or pre ignition.

I check my spark plugs often they burn well, i have not blown a set or caused any damage to them. I have got the traction control, launch control dialed in and am very happy with my EMS.

The one problem that has killed me so far is getting the car to start perfectly.

My car does start on the EMS, when its warm rather easily with a 2-4 cranks. On cold its much more difficult but does come in line after a few cranks.

BUT no matter what i change or do, I cant stop it kicking back on start. I have blown 3 starters in the year and have tried almost everything. Read many forums indept but nothing seems to help. The starter does a kick back, Or it just hits a wall like there is no battery power to run it - i keep a eye on the battery voltage that normally happens when volt drops below 9, i guess that is normal.

Below is a list of things i have tried over time.

1. Played numerous times with crank advance - increase or decrease make no difference.
2. Had the crank inject ON mostly, read a thread yesterday suggesting it should be OFF> got it off now car starts 2% better than before.
3. Innitial crank pluse - read a forum about increasing it on some tps points so you can have like a band aid - like on a crab car open throttle throw some extra fuel to make it start easy, helps but wont stop kick back.
4. NO warm, the car starts well sometimes in 1-2 cranks but it still kicks back.
5. I give the EMS time to prime i dont fire it up start away.
6. Start sync comes on just after 1 crank IMO
7. Battery holds well got 10-12.5 volts while cranking
8. Have had the grounds checked at numerous occasions. Also introduced a ground wire from the starter bolt to battery
9. I have made sure over and over that my ignition timing is synchronized between engine and ecu

Lately I have been considering to make a start up cal in line with what i got from AEM. As in AEM base map uses ID1000 injectors. I use stock. So if the value at 20 degree is 15ms for aem I did a small calculation - 14x1000/290 = 48 on my map. Am going to try this tonight but i dont have high hopes.

The setup is a G23 inside a accord. RUnning stock intake, alfa 70mm tb and 290cc injectors. Am using a 30-6050 EMS series 2 ecu

Can anyone shed some light, I can post the cals or make logs if required. Its just getting very frustrating for me. Am even considering selling the EMS and getting a Hondata. But it breaks my heart, i am not the kind of person to give up on something quickly. I really want to learn and cover this, if i have been cover the rest thing should not be impossible.

Any help / assistance / even criticism is welcome.

Kind Regards

 

Post a link to your calibration so we can take a look at it.

 

http://www.sendspace.com/file/oi88qx

Here you go.

Just keep in mind its stock 290cc injectors that is why i have to add so much fuel.

 

Try Lowering your crank advance a bit more. Even at 6.9 degrees, the combustion may be an ideal mix that is causing kickback.

I would go to 0 if you are on your 4th starter this year.

 

I just tried 0 and it does not work.

Seem starter 5 is coming soon.

Am thinking of switching to hondata and making my life easy.

Am frustrated with this.

Regards

 

Too much fuel, too much adv.

 

Anny others?

 

Buddy had the same issue and it converted to external coil (still OEM coil) and it went away. Try it.

 

Yeah i read that too.

So best external coil setup for me would be epm + k20 coild and a harness?

Regards

 

He just did the external h22a coil and it worked great.

 

Could you please explain how do i do that?

I have a msd sci at home, is that the same thing?

 

OBD1 accords and preludes have a external coil. You can use that coil and cap, convert the wiring to external and see if it helps.

 

That is very interesting. I will get on to that in the week. I am lucky i have a F20z1 1993 distributor at hand.

Do you think the msd sci would be good addition to the system?

Regards

 

MSD will not help in any way.

 

Thanks alot of the idea sir.

I will get cracking on the external coil tomorrow itself

 

Sounds like you just need a proper tune on the car. Unfortunately I can
t download your file as that website is blocked at my work.

 

Rtype16, pm me your mail ID i will email the file to you.

I agree i need a tune, but like i explained i dont have a tuner local thus its all down to my shoulders.

 

Billspectuning@gmail.com

I will take a look at it as well

 

2000CTRSi... thanks for the email.

Cal SENT

Regards

 

Do you have the engine kick back fixed?

 

if you convert the car to COP this problem will go away. Its been a issue with low speed cam and crank signals for years on the aem. You can use the aem epm and 4 k series coils. However the issue can be fixed in the tune but it takes some work and will still do it every now and then.

 

I know the kick back starting can be fixed because it no longer does it on my own car. It took me over a year experimenting with different calibrations and engine with distributors are the most likely to kick back with just a small calibration error.