EF Hatch Has Spark and Fuel Pressure, NO Start
Please help!
Please help, this car is my life and not being able to drive is really killing me. I have a 91 ef hatch. I previously had a running b18a in it working beautifully. MPFI and OBD1 swapped.
It now has a b18b.
What happens when I go to start it.
-Fuel pressure goes up to 40psi.
-Starter cranks and the engine turns over but does not start, no sputter, no nothing.
What I have already checked/tried.
-Fuel Pressure at fuel filter outlet = 40psi
-Spark checked on cylinder 1
-Tried cranking while spraying starter fluid through the throttle body with no luck.
-Replaced stock intake manifold with blox just to try something different.
-Compression test. 140-110-110-140
What I want to check.
-Want to also check Main Relay (https://honda-tech.com/forums/honda-crx-ef-civic-1988-1991-3/checking-main-relay-pics-2535047/)
-Any other things to check?
A few mods.
Walbro 255 Fuel Pump (Leftover from previous engine.)
Blox Intake manifold.
Megan Header.
Only have throttle body on right now so I have room to work.
Any questions that you have to provide more help, don't be afraid to ask. I NEED to drive my car.
Please help, this car is my life and not being able to drive is really killing me. I have a 91 ef hatch. I previously had a running b18a in it working beautifully. MPFI and OBD1 swapped.
It now has a b18b.
What happens when I go to start it.
-Fuel pressure goes up to 40psi.
-Starter cranks and the engine turns over but does not start, no sputter, no nothing.
What I have already checked/tried.
-Fuel Pressure at fuel filter outlet = 40psi
-Spark checked on cylinder 1
-Tried cranking while spraying starter fluid through the throttle body with no luck.
-Replaced stock intake manifold with blox just to try something different.
-Compression test. 140-110-110-140
What I want to check.
-Want to also check Main Relay (https://honda-tech.com/forums/honda-crx-ef-civic-1988-1991-3/checking-main-relay-pics-2535047/)
-Any other things to check?
A few mods.
Walbro 255 Fuel Pump (Leftover from previous engine.)
Blox Intake manifold.
Megan Header.
Only have throttle body on right now so I have room to work.
Any questions that you have to provide more help, don't be afraid to ask. I NEED to drive my car.
Last edited by jpnolan; Jul 10, 2013 at 06:49 PM. Reason: Compression test.
No need to check the main relay.
You have spark and fuel.
The compression check is the final check - you NEED fuel, spark and compression for any engine to run.
That said, the mechanical timing could be off.
Also ensure that you have the spark plug wires on the correctly.
Spark has to happen at the right time.
You have spark and fuel.
The compression check is the final check - you NEED fuel, spark and compression for any engine to run.
That said, the mechanical timing could be off.
Also ensure that you have the spark plug wires on the correctly.
Spark has to happen at the right time.
Thank you 4drEF.
I have already checked spark plug wires and even tried a different set with no luck. I was told when I bought the motor that it was running so I had assumed it had decent enough mechanical time. But we know where assuming gets us
I was wondering about the main relay to see if the injectors were getting power, but it still wouldn't start with starter fluid so I don't know.
I will check compression and get back to this asap.
Thanks again 4drEF.
I have already checked spark plug wires and even tried a different set with no luck. I was told when I bought the motor that it was running so I had assumed it had decent enough mechanical time. But we know where assuming gets us

I was wondering about the main relay to see if the injectors were getting power, but it still wouldn't start with starter fluid so I don't know.
I will check compression and get back to this asap.
Thanks again 4drEF.
its either compression or timing you should be able to get it to start if you have starting fluid and spark, and if your spark plug wires were switched youd know right away, this may sound weird but you could put some oil in the cylinders to get the rings to sit right ive had to do this before
Thanks spens 91 ef. I still haven't gotten to check compression but unless it is completely f-ed on 2 or more cylinders I would think it would at least run crappy.
Just finished compression check car is as reads...
1 2 3 4
140 110 110 140
Please help I need to drive my car again.
1 2 3 4
140 110 110 140
Please help I need to drive my car again.
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i could be wrong but also check these things where ive done swaps and car didnt start and these were situations i ran across past few swaps i performed...
-check all grounds! especially the one at the thermostat housing that one ground i forgot to tighten and car never started til i caught it
-check and make sure the injector plugs are tight and in correct order...i did a mini me for a buddy and slid each injector clip on the injector just to have them in place and forgot to push them all the way down
-check firing order, ecm, and distributor internals
wish u the best of luck buddy
-check all grounds! especially the one at the thermostat housing that one ground i forgot to tighten and car never started til i caught it
-check and make sure the injector plugs are tight and in correct order...i did a mini me for a buddy and slid each injector clip on the injector just to have them in place and forgot to push them all the way down
-check firing order, ecm, and distributor internals
wish u the best of luck buddy
One crazy sounds it makes.
Tried a different dizzy with no luck.
At one point I sprayed starter fluid in the intake and fire came on the intake.....
Almost at the point of giving up
135 is the minimum compression you should be seeing.
28 psi difference between cylinders max.
You are out of spec for both =(
This could be that the rings are dry.
If the motor has been sitting for a few months, then it is recommended to drop a cap full of oil in through each spark plug hole and let it sit before trying to start.
Can you check the compression once more?
I'm pretty sure you had all the spark plugs before checking compression on any of the cylinders, right?
(If not, recheck with all the plugs out)
The two low compression cylinders, 2 and 3, look suspicious to me.
There is a chance you have a blown head gasket between these two cylinders.
Pull the plugs again.
Check cylinder 2 and 3. You read 110 before so you should get 110 on them again.
Then install a spark plug in cylinder 3. Check compression on cylinder 2.
If the compression comes up with the spark plug installed, then you have an issue.
28 psi difference between cylinders max.
You are out of spec for both =(
This could be that the rings are dry.
If the motor has been sitting for a few months, then it is recommended to drop a cap full of oil in through each spark plug hole and let it sit before trying to start.
Can you check the compression once more?
I'm pretty sure you had all the spark plugs before checking compression on any of the cylinders, right?
(If not, recheck with all the plugs out)
The two low compression cylinders, 2 and 3, look suspicious to me.
There is a chance you have a blown head gasket between these two cylinders.
Pull the plugs again.
Check cylinder 2 and 3. You read 110 before so you should get 110 on them again.
Then install a spark plug in cylinder 3. Check compression on cylinder 2.
If the compression comes up with the spark plug installed, then you have an issue.
any check engine lights on? If you have a flame that shot out of the intake after you sprayed starting fluid, check your timing again.
The way it's cranking thats no compression on 1 or 2 cylinder.
Check mechanical timing and valve lash.
Here's a video I posted when I had trouble starting the car. 1 cylinder had no compression has to step on the gas to make it idle.
Revalve lashed the car and 180 compression across the board
Check mechanical timing and valve lash.
Here's a video I posted when I had trouble starting the car. 1 cylinder had no compression has to step on the gas to make it idle.
Revalve lashed the car and 180 compression across the board
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Luke 91 ef
Honda CRX / EF Civic (1988 - 1991)
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