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Thought it was about time I made a thread to organize my build and keep track of all the things I have done with the car.
I bought this crx as a shell; no engine, transmission, no seats.
The sunroof was "deleted" with a sheet metal plate riveted in place.
I fixed the sunroof by tearing off the crappy sheet metal, and putting in a working factory sunroof assembly.
I picked up some clean 1990 crx si seats, put those in.
Bought a used B16a2 locally.
Found a S1 b16 transmission and mated that up to the b16a2, along with a 12lb competition-clutch flywheel, and oem spec exedy clutch kit.
Bought an ebay traction bar for the time being, here are some photos of the engine bay under construction:
Sometime before I owned the car, there was a wire tuck opperation. And there was a JDM crx cluster wired in.
I didn't like how the harness was engineered, and figured some wires showing in the engine bay was a lot more attractive than a poorly running vehicle with a wire tuck.
So I took the engine harness, underdash harness, dash harness, and cluster out of a '88 Crx Si and put it in my car.
Old cut up harness
"new" uncut harness
I replaced the t bracket where the hood rests because it was very bent up.
Installed a JDM ITR header that I got for cheap, and an oem crx radiator.
Right now I'm using a stock crx intake tube and filter box.
Picked up some Rota Slips, I really like the Spoon SW388, but my wallet does not.
Shortly after the car was running I discovered two things...
The transmission I bought was a bunk one. Third grinds in high rpm and Fourth is very tricky to get into gear at all. But, recently I have bought a j1 jdm b16 transmission from a reputable seller as a replacement.
Second thing was; after filling the car up with gas, I noticed that fuel was leaking up and into the cab of the car.
One of the previous owners had relocated the battery right above the fuel tank, and had drilled right through into the gas tank with one of the mounting screws.
So I sealed up the hole with JB Weld lol. No problems so far, and I doubt there will be any.
Bought a Hasport linkage and Blackworks dual bend, nice crisp shifts. (Minus my transmission problem.)
So that pretty much brings us up to the present day.
Recently I swapped out corner lights with oem '90-'91 Stanley corners.
Also I bought some function and form type 1 coilovers to put on.
Still have to put in the other transmission.
Also I have a weirdly routed brake line, another result of a previous owner, that will be fixed while the engine is out for the transmission swap.
I prefer oem intake tubes with the boxes...works nicely.
Im in washington also...I've been looking for a cheap(er) itr header, any of them that pop up on craigs are an arm and a leg...lol. What did you pay for yours?
Nice, but you don't need to pull the engine just to change transmissions.
True, but I find it so much easier to do with the engine out, especially in the tight EF engine bay. The brake line I need to replace is a result of laziness. It is routed along the top of the engine bay, as if the person replacing it was too lazy to take the engine out to properly route the line along with the rest of them. So I have to take the engine out anyways.
Originally Posted by Presidential_Detail
Nice progress, good luck bringing her back to OEM status!
Thanks. My plans involve going further than oem though, the build will be subtle and geared towards circuit race days.
Originally Posted by JuggerNaut-CTR
Looking good so far
I prefer oem intake tubes with the boxes...works nicely.
Im in washington also...I've been looking for a cheap(er) itr header, any of them that pop up on craigs are an arm and a leg...lol. What did you pay for yours?
I bought mine for $80, but the shield mounts were grinded off, and the two runners on the bottom are kinda dented.
Just been driving this thing around since my last update.
Pictures from last Spring:
Bought an older Nardi wheel off of a friend and installed it.
It is mated up with the NRG Tilt system and a NRG short hub.
Did not realize that the hardware on the wheel wasn't stainless, so over time the bolts grew some rust on them.
I never really liked the Blox rear lca's that came with the shell when I bougt it, and I wanted a rear sway bar, which was missing when I bought the shell.
So, I bought some good OEM rear lca's and an OEM rear sway bar. Man its skinny! But it does the job. The bushings on the Blox rear lca's were in terrible shape so they needed replacing anyway.
Build is pretty solid. Did you locate some of the interior at the wrecking yards? Seats look mint. For the steering wheel bolts take one out and go to either Mclendon or a Tacoma screw. Should be pretty cheap upgrade for stainless.