Hi All,

We are having some problems with the car firing on cylinder #3 since we put the COP setup on this year. Here is the history.

Freshly rebuilt engine at the end of last year. Went from a sleeved 81.5 to an 84mm bore. Ran at one event at the end of last season. Had some boost creep on the dyno and at the track and didn't fair out well. Car came back from that event and was put away for winter.

Engine was only taken apart as far as the cams being removed in order to double check the torque on the head. The engine was still clean and fine at the end of the year, so didn't go any deeper. It ran fine when it was parked.

New parts over winter included: New Sheepey Inc Top Mount T4 with 66mm Gate Flange, New 66mm Precision Gate, Used K Series Coils, Rywire COP Harness, New Aem Series 2 ECU 30-6040, Used T1 Cam Trigger and Matching Golden Eagle Cam Gears, Used 72 mm Blox Throttle Body, Used Dual Bosch 044 Pumps, -10 Feed Line, -8 Return, New Weldon Fuel Filter, Sumped OEM Fuel Tank, New Bosch 2000 cc Injectors.

Installed everything over the past two weeks. Pinned the Rywire harness into the ECU. Moved the jumpers in the ECU for the COP setup. Car will start up and idle. The car spits and sputters when it gets up to around 3500 rpms. Changed firing order in AEM, did not help. Changed coils from #3 to #4 and than it had no fire on #4. Made us believe a bad coil on #3. Got another coil, and tried it. No help. Unclipped #3 injector, and traded with #4. This didn't help.

We are thinking #3 Injector could be bad. Not sure what else it could be.

Does anybody have any hints, help, tricks, advice etc to help us out? Trying to get to an event for Saturday morning and with the USA holiday we have no luck calling the shops or AEM who we usually deal with (we are from Canada eh lol).

If you have any advice, please fire away. Anything is appreciated!

Thanks.

 

Changed coils from #3 to #4 and than it had no fire on #4.

you changed out the bad coil.....and put #4 back on 4?
possible a seconed bad coil was replacing the first?

oem coils?

start eliminating variables. test ecu in another coil on plug car.

test wires at both ends of ecu. mistakes have been made in the past with wireharness.

 

We did end up switching #3 and #4 coils. That seemed to make no fire on #4. We changed out the bad coil that was on #3. Put a known good one on #3. Put #4 back to #4. Maybe it was a second bad coil. These are OEM K Series coils.

We started to run out of time, so we switched everything back to running off the distributor. With my luck, we went through a few OEM coils and an ignitor and still couldn't get the car to the track.

We tested for continuity from the ECU end to the Coils. Everything was fine.

We are going to double check wiring this week, and see what we can find.

Ideally we would like to find a simple basemap setup to run K Series coils on AEM Series 2, and the T1 Cam Trigger Kit. We do not need or want fuel or ignition maps, just the setup calibrations.

We have followed AEM's instructions for changing the Jumpers in the ECU, and followed T1's instructions for wiring the Cam/Crank Trigger in.

We have come to the conclusion that it really most likely isn't a coil, but deeper in the wiring. That is why we are double checking.

With the distributor on the car, the car would run past 3000 rpms cleanly but would break down in higher rpms. With the Cam Trigger setup, it would idle cleanly, and run fine up to 3000 rpms, but as soon as it got there it would backfire, miss, and break down shooting flames out of the exhaust.

Here are a four pictures of how the AEM is setup for the T1 Kit with K Series Coils on Series 2 AEM.

Jumpers switched:



Cam Sensor Setup:



Coil & Injector Phasing:



Coil Dwell Setup:



Any thoughts or ideas would be great!

 

1) Compression Test
2) Leak Down Test
3) Flow injectors

Do those first...

 

1) Compression is 200 on all cylinders. Did that after having issues. Also adjusted the valves.

2) Did not do a leak down test.

3) Injectors are brand new Bosch 2000cc (twins to ID2000's). Quite certain all were tested on the car that they were spraying fine. They were not taken out and tested on a bench though.

With the distributor on the car, and a good coil/ignitor the car was reving to 8500 rpms fine. It made around 525 whp at 24 psi. After a few pulls, it seemed to start breaking down. We tried 3 different distributors. None were ran on higher hp engines, but 2 of the 3 were known to be fine on N/A B Series cars.

Anything else you can offer? Or do a leak down and injector flow first?

 

when it misfires is it lean or rich? could be starved for fuel?? you put used pumps in correct? does the fuel pressure drop? if its loosing spark the afr should go rich due to the unburnt fuel, if its loosing fuel or a fuel injector it would be leaner .

 

It is hard to tell if it is lean or rich. With the COP setup, the car has not been on the street yet. It really isn't driveable. It will idle and rev to 3000 rpms but that is it. With the factory distributor, it will run fine and make power until higher rpms after a few passes on the dyno. We are 99% certain it is not a fuel issue. It seems much more like a spark issue. We are going to try a distributor from another car that just made 640 whp to rule out a wiring issue besides the COP setup. If the car makes the power without issues than we know it is either in the wiring into the OEM harness, the Rywire harness, the wiring from the T1 sensor to the Rywire harness or something is setup wrong with AEM.

 

Nobody any help or ideas?

 

How do you not know if the car is lean or rich? You are using a wideband to tune

 

Is it a new or old style T1 trigger? What is the gap at? Are u getting any sync errors when it's breaking up?
Let me see a screen shot of the advance pickups table and coil dwell table.

 

It is the older style t1 cam trigger kit, the gap is set at 0.025-0.030".
Godfather of Boost I think I might have the calibration in my email if you have an email you would prefer me to send it to just pm me. Not sure about the sync error as I wasn't there when they were doing the tuning. I just set up the ecu and pinned the wiring to it and set the gap to the cam trigger.
This is the first time we have done a setup like this with a v2 in our area so it's a learning curve for all of us involved. I have the same setup on my v1 but with the guide to set it up was simple. For the v2 we thought it would be as simple as going through the wizard and then doing the phasing but it hasn't quite been that easy.
Now when they put the stock distributor back on the car they were using another v2 ems and no cam trigger and swapped back the wiring to stock, for anyone trying to help with diagnosis.

 

Try running the gap at .015 the older sensors needed to be pretty tight to work well.
Godfatherofboost@yahoo.com

 

whats your base Fuel Pressure?

Have you tired a different coil or injector driver?

assuming your running a 6040 box?

 

Got it figured out, when you do the setup wizard for the t1 cam trigger it doesn't set all the options up that I figured it would. Lesson learned, you still have to set all the options up the same as the version 1 after doing the setup wizard. Not too familiar with the tuner program yet either so that didn't help. Now it's at the tuners to get finished off.

 

http://www.t1racedevelopment.com/ind...catid=19&id=14