Alright I can't find anything on this combination. I bought a ported head a few years ago, and it came with a broken cam cap. So the head is basically garbage. Line boring apparently costs as much as porting a new head. Ugh. I had the intake manifold gasket matched and had the tb opening widened. What problems, if any can I expect to see using a stock head with a ported IM? I can imagine air flow is going to essentially hit a wall when it comes from the ported exit of the IM to the unported head. Could I get away without changing the size of the head, or should I get in there with a dremel and open the head ports up? Its an f22b1, so I know the head flow is garbage compared to say an f22a head, but I'm not really up to the swap at this point. Let me know any insight you have, or if YOU can find where this has been discussed, shoot me the link and save us all some time. I couldn't find anything. Thanks guys!

 

Swap on an F23A1 intake manifold and either buy or make an adapter for the IACV. Not really advisable, but it is possible to eliminate it all together with a tune.

Also, the headflow is not garbage. There's been some fairly recent developments showing that the F22B1 head can hold it's own with most off-the shelf lift cams under .5 of lift.

 

Yeah I forgot to mention its an f23 intake manifold. And recent developments? Ha ha I guess that's the downfall to searching and reading posts from 2004.

So, all that being said, there is a sizable difference in size of the ports on the head (small) and the intake manifold (large). Is this difference going to cause enough issues for me to want to spend the money to have the head ported again?

 

I would think if the head was ported and the IM was stock, it would be less of an issue, lm. I'm thinking that having the air sort of hard funnel into a small head port with no taper might pose more of an issue for flow than just using a stock IM. stuck between a rock and a hard place.

 

What to do really depends on how large they made the ports on the intake manifold. Also are the runners the same diameter all the way down or are they larger at the flange?

If the intake was only ported at the flange end you will want to ditch it for a stock F23 IM and go from there. An hourglass shaped intake runner and intake port is not what you want. There should be a gradual taper from the entrance of the runner down to the back of the intake valve.

If the intake runner walls have just been cleaned up with the casting marks removed and not enlarged all the much. I would suggest that you port match the head to the intake manifold and carry the tapper into the cylinder head slightly.

 

Ok, when I get home ill check it out more in depth. I do know that the ports are matched to the gasket (as was the head that I had) and if I'm not mistaken, most of the runner was ground down as well. He also ported the tb opening. Thanks Ghost, and Chrisnick!

 

No problems, keep us posted.

By developments, I mean that the VTEC heads have been put on flowbenches and shown that they're pretty good up to .5 of lift, superior to even the F22A heads at those lift levels in stock and lightly ported applications. IMO, the VTEC head is the superior head for street applications.

 

That's on the intake side.

Still waiting for exhaust flow and cross flow comparisons. no one seems to have flow numbers of the exhaust on the F22B1. An internal combustion engine, being an air pump, requires the air to get out as well as get in. I think it's been the exhaust ports that have been the issue on the B1. Not so much the intake ports. Ether way for a street build the VTEC head flows more than enough. N/A or race, I would put the F22A PT3 ahead of the F22B1/F23A and definitely the F22B2.

In saying that I do not have a flow bench so I am just going by what I have been told and what I have witnessed working on my F22B2 and F22A heads.

 

Alright. I took some pictures, but they're on my phone, and HT doesn't like phone picture uploads. Ill have them up in a little bit. But to be honest, it looks like only the first 2 or 3 inches back were ported. And the top where the plenum bolts to were ground out but only the first 3 inches or so. So I suppose that would give it the hourglass shape. So I suppose I'm looking at a new IM. Fml lol I tell ya, without bad luck I'd have no luck.

 

Well if the porting is not too excessive, and it's just some port cleaning. I wouldn't worry about it.

 

Here's those pics.

 

You posted in this thread! LOL

http://www.cd5tuner.com/vbb/showthread.php?t=7433

It's gonna be a few months before I can post results.

 

Yeah that's not bad at all... basically gasket matching more than porting. That being said you could have the head port matched to the gasket. Having a lip there would cause a bit of turbulence, However it won't hurt too much if you don't match it for a daily driver.


Ah yes and now I remember seeing that the exhaust flows 223 with some porting. That was ported as far as the guy would go, due to heating issues...aka porting into the water jackets that surround the F22B1/2 exhaust ports. He never did post a flow/lift chart.

 

Wanna sell it? Lol

 

Chris, nah I'll use it now that I know it's good lol I'm gonna have almost a whole 91 civic for parts probably tomorrow, you can buy thoset if you want. I'm just waiting for the insurance company to tell me how much its gonna cost me to keep it. 99% sure i can make that back in sale of parts. Just with my luck lately they'll come back and be like 800 bucks. Lol

 

But if either one of you (or anyone for that matter) has aluminum IC piping, SS exhaust piping in short curves or some kind of tuning software for sale on the cheap, I may be interested in buying soon. Thats really all I need to turn the key in this thing. It's been a long time.

 

Sorry, all of my stuff is in use or will be used.

Burns Stainless L.L.C. is a good place to get exhaust tubing if you don't have a local supplier. I just bought a bunch of tubing for my bike exhaust build, from merge collectors and reducers to U and J bends. Great customer service and the quality of the tubing I received was much better than what I got from Vibrant!

 

Good to know, thanks a lot! Quality is a must, and of course customr service.

 

I also liked the fact that the stainless tubing they use is Made in the USA. Rather than some cheaper Ferritic SS that other companies try to pass off as a high quality stainless. In my opinion Austenitic 300 series (304/321) SS is the best choice for exhaust.

 

There's always this one which confirms my thoughts. I would go on to state that the +1mm valves really don't make a whole lot of difference, although porting did increase flow about 10-15% from .3 on up. I forget who the original poster was, but I believe it's from CD5tuner.