So heres how i think it all started , got a 92 accord lx from my grandmother yesterday, then i found out i had no running lights or brake lights.

I replaced the horn/stop fuse, turned on the running lights, fuse go boom, inspected the tail lights found that the drivers side trunk lid break light wires had melted together, unpluged the module put in a new fuse running lights work fine.

i rebuilt the module with a new socket new wires, running lamp lights up. still no brake lights. found the root cause of the problem, the breaklight pedal switch was not depress b/c of that blue crayon stopper thing was broken and in the floor, cause the light to stay on over night and all day melted those wire and burnt the fuse. fixed the switch with epoxy and 2 pennys, tested the switch with mutimeter, its fine.

no break lights still, inspected futher,

passenger side tail light sensor green/white wire burnt cleaned it up, tested it with mutimeter have a good connection all across, no break lights

for the moment i give up, any ideas

also can shift from park without using the override

 

If the brake light switch is not making contact the lights will not come on and the shift interlock will not release, you should hear a solenoid activate when depressing the brake while the key is turned to ON and the shifter is in Park.

Click on the 'Techauto' link in my sig, look under ignition switch for further details.

 

you can tell i was suffering from sleep derivation in that post, b/c i have a 91 accord EX :/

anyway i got it fixed, may not be proper but it works

 

I'm having the same problem! First my brake light fuse kept blowing out, and then my interior dash fuse blew out 3 days later in my 94 accord ex. I traced the problem to my drivers side tail light. I unplugged it and no more blown fuses but I still am running into the problem as my brake lights not working, and my tail lights staying on unless I pull the fuse...any ideas?

 

Also the second I plug said tail light back in, fuse blows instantly. From what I can see all wires are fine, and it is also grounded but still blows...

 

That switch needs to be depressed all the way to open the circuit and cut the lights off.