99 Civic wont crank, wont start and no fuel
So I recently rebuilt my motor and had all my harness and ground install properly. Switch key to on and nothing. I can hear my fuel pump relay click, fan comes on, dash and headlight comes on, check battery got 12.5 volts. My car will not crank nor start and no fuel at all. Fuel pump will not prime and I am lost here.
I know theres a lot of thread about this but everyone else either had fuel and wont crank or crank but not start. My car will not crank, start or have fuel.
Do you guys think its worth buying a new ECU?
Do you guys think its worth buying a new ECU?
If you can not hear the fuel pump priming when you turn on the ign. switch, it is most likely a problem with the PGM- FI Main Relay.
You said, "I can hear my fuel pump relay click", it should click twice when you turn on the ign, I don't fell like retyping it all again so here is a link... https://honda-tech.com/forums/tech-misc-15/99-v6-accord-ignition-switch-vs-main-relay-3154483/
You said, "I can hear my fuel pump relay click", it should click twice when you turn on the ign, I don't fell like retyping it all again so here is a link... https://honda-tech.com/forums/tech-misc-15/99-v6-accord-ignition-switch-vs-main-relay-3154483/
Last edited by fcm; Jun 26, 2013 at 06:46 PM. Reason: find link
Just replaced the PGM-FI Main Relay amd still nothing. Used a jumper cable to jump the fuel pump straight from the battery and I can hear it prime and see fuel coming out of the fuel rail. Did a voltage test on the fuel pump connectors and the PGM-FI Main Relay and got a ready of 0.7 volts. How do I go about tracing the main wires to the pump?
The fuel pump power lead runs down the drivers side of the car, however all you need to do is connect your jumper so fuel pump runs then test for power on the fuel pump lead at the PGM-FI Main relay, if the circuit is good the power lead at the relay will show power as long as the jumper is connected.
A new PGM-FI Main Relay does not mean the problem is not related to the main relay, the relay itself may be good but wiring to/from it may be the problem.
The first test to check wiring to the relay is to check for the three powers the relay needs.
Unplug the relay and test for powers at the relays plug, there are three of them...
1- 12V+ constant, hot at all times, [white/black].
2- 12V+ switched, hot when ign. switch is in the run and start positions, [yellow/green].
3- 12V+ switched, hot only when ign. switch is in the start position, [blue/white].
The black lead is ground and should have full continuity to chassis ground.
The a yellow/black lead is the fuel injector relays output.
The yellow/green lead is the fuel pump relays output, if you use a jumper, [paper clip] to jump from the 12V+ constant, [white/black] to the fuel pump power lead, [yellow/green] the pump should run if the circuit is good.
The last lead is the green/yellow, [ECU/ECM fuel pump relay control lead, a ground], to test if the problem is the ECU/ECM and all the other circuits are good, [power, ground outputs to the fuel injectors and the fuel pump] plug the PGM-FI Main Relay back in, turn on the ign. and use the jumper to jump from ground, [black lead] to the green/yellow control lead.
If the fuel pump runs, the problem is the ECU/ECM, or related to it, test for power on IGP1 and IGP2, the only two (2) yellow/black leads at the ECU/ECM.
Both IGP1&2 must have power when ign. switch is in both the run and start positions. 94
A new PGM-FI Main Relay does not mean the problem is not related to the main relay, the relay itself may be good but wiring to/from it may be the problem.
The first test to check wiring to the relay is to check for the three powers the relay needs.
Unplug the relay and test for powers at the relays plug, there are three of them...
1- 12V+ constant, hot at all times, [white/black].
2- 12V+ switched, hot when ign. switch is in the run and start positions, [yellow/green].
3- 12V+ switched, hot only when ign. switch is in the start position, [blue/white].
The black lead is ground and should have full continuity to chassis ground.
The a yellow/black lead is the fuel injector relays output.
The yellow/green lead is the fuel pump relays output, if you use a jumper, [paper clip] to jump from the 12V+ constant, [white/black] to the fuel pump power lead, [yellow/green] the pump should run if the circuit is good.
The last lead is the green/yellow, [ECU/ECM fuel pump relay control lead, a ground], to test if the problem is the ECU/ECM and all the other circuits are good, [power, ground outputs to the fuel injectors and the fuel pump] plug the PGM-FI Main Relay back in, turn on the ign. and use the jumper to jump from ground, [black lead] to the green/yellow control lead.
If the fuel pump runs, the problem is the ECU/ECM, or related to it, test for power on IGP1 and IGP2, the only two (2) yellow/black leads at the ECU/ECM.
Both IGP1&2 must have power when ign. switch is in both the run and start positions. 94
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So I re-solder my PGM-FI and got fuel in my rail and it is reading 50 psi on my regulator gauge but still can't hear the fuel pump. I have a Deatschwerks 300 fuel pump in the tank.
Check my timing and everything is correct at TDC and the motor will crank but will not start. Checked my spark plug and have no spark. All grounds are connected so can this mean my distributor coil is bad? It's a Accel distributor coil.
Check my timing and everything is correct at TDC and the motor will crank but will not start. Checked my spark plug and have no spark. All grounds are connected so can this mean my distributor coil is bad? It's a Accel distributor coil.
I know you said all grounds are intact but did you specifically make sure the ground is hooked up on the thermostat housing? I know its a forgotten one that has got me before. If the ground is present and connected, I would lean towards the ignition coil being defective.
I know you said all grounds are intact but did you specifically make sure the ground is hooked up on the thermostat housing? I know its a forgotten one that has got me before. If the ground is present and connected, I would lean towards the ignition coil being defective.
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