I'm in the midst of this nightmare task. Fortunately, I knew about https://honda-tech.com/forums/showpo...44&postcount=1 and printed out those guidelines and they were very helpful.

I am wondering how to connect the two wires on the new motor to the plug that goes into the connector. I'm thinking I need to cut the wires on the plug and splice/solder the wires from the new motor to those wires on the plug. Does this sound right?

The foam air seal strips on the top of the blower box are degraded and the foam has mostly sloughed off. I was thinking of removing what remains of the old foam seals and put foam strips for home weather seal foam insulation strips rather than basically having no air seal around those air ports on top of the blower box. What do you think?

If I need to drive the car before I get the box reinstalled, that would be OK as long as I leave the fan switch off, right?

Can I test the operation of the new motor before reinstalling the box by connecting the wiring and turning on the fan switch on the dashboard?

 

the foam strips are just to cut down on air leaks and keep the force of the air coming out of the vents high. it would b fine to drive with out the box on it if ur not running the fan. foam strips for house weatherization would be fine. and if u wanna test the new blower just to see if it works just hook it straight to the batt. and on the wiring you could just solder them or buy crimp on connectors or splicers. for the location splicer would probably be better

 

Thanks for your reply. I did put foam strips for house weatherization on it, even though, as you said, it just cuts down on air leaks, and that's not a critical issue.

I gather connecting the new blower directly to the battery to test it does not risk damaging the motor or resister to due to too much power. So, I I'll try that.

And, thanks for the tips on the wiring.

 

im pretty sure that it delivers a full 12v to the blower when on high but if ur cautious u could just use jumper wires to temporarily hook it up to the blower motor connector to be safe

 

I did test the installed blower motor by touching the wires on the battery terminals just enough to make contact and hear the motor start running. I believe you're correct about the voltage; the blower box has something about 12V printed on the side of it. But, I also tested operation of the unit with all wiring re-connected to it but with sitting on the car floor. The fan responded to the 5 speeds on the control dial, so I concluded the resistor is working.

I got the blower box back in the car but the air pressure coming out of vents is very weak. I have not reversed other steps (glove box, side panel under blower, ECU shield under the carpet, etc.) of the removal procedure yet so I think I'm going to pull the box back out and put a different weatherstripping on it. Hopefully, that will improve the air flow. This is a real pain but now is the time to do it.

Edit: As a test, I held a tissue near vent outlets and this did the same in my 88 Accord. Air flow was much better in the 88.

 

only suggestion i have is to use the type of foam where u cant see all those little holes in it, use the stuff that looks solid and smooth instead of like a sponge. and did u make sure ur vents r open all the way and the wires have a good connection, weak ground could explain a low flow.

 

Yeah, I believe I used the wrong type. I have another type that is much firmer and is smooth on top. It's also wider than the one I used.

Yes, the vents are open. And, since I can hear the motor running at the various speeds and it sounds like it's running at the speed of the old motor before it went bad, I presume the wires have a good connection.

Will post results when I replace the insulation.

 

For giggles....switch the wires on the motor. I'm betting you have them reversed and the blower is spinning the wrong direction = reduced to almost no air flow out of the vents.

 

You know, I was beginning to wonder about that. I dismounted the unit, as stated in my last post before this one, and applied different air seal material to the openings on top of the unit. But, I now believe that's probably not an issue. Those top openings are intake ports to pull air in from outside. So, lack of a good seal there would not affect the force of air coming out of the vents; it would just reduce the effectiveness of that setting; it would result in recirculating some inside air even though the controls on the dashboard were set to pull in air from outside.

When I spliced the wires from the new motor to the wires on the plug that goes into the connector, I did not have an exact color match in the wires, so it was a bit of guesswork. The two wires going into the plug were solid colors; as I recall, one was black; the other, I don't recall for sure. The wires on the motor were two-toned in color. They had a main color which covered a majority of them, and they had a stripe of another color. Their main color did not match the colors of the plug wires. As I recall, I found the stripe colors to match the solid colors of the plug wires and spliced them accordingly. Perhaps that was wrong.

To test this, I'm thinking I could leave the unit installed and cut the wires to the plug - this plug just has two wires for the motor - where they hang down below the unit on the outer wall of the car and splice them in reverse of their present order. Does that sound feasible?

The other thought I had was whether I could have installed the two fan wheels on the wrong end of the motor shaft and, if so, whether that would make them ineffective. But, I don't believe they can be incorrectly mounted. As I recall, the two ends of the motor shaft are different in length and the wheels are not identical and therefore the wheels cannot be installed in reverse.

 

Well guys, problem solved. Reversing the wire connections reversed the motor rotation and air flow is normal.

 

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