Make sure I'm making the right decision here.........


LS (b18a or b18b, take your pick), built--GE Sleeving, Eagle/JE, Hondata, all them goodies.........

i wanna do 12-15 psi daily (prolly more like 12 daily, but with the capability to crank it up to 15 if i get really pissed at some ricer. ), so after frying my brain on compressor maps (math is not really my best friend in the world) for a while, I'm thinking:

T3 stage 3 .63 a/r
T04E 60 trim .60 a/r

is good yes? or maybe no?

redline will most likely be around 7400-ish.

at this point i'm really tired, and i'd like to set my plan together in as close to stone as possible so i can get rollin on the project.

 

just out of curiousity... why an the ls over the gsr?

 

its cheaper !!!

 

Big difference in cost is my gripe about the gsr compared to ls motors.
TO4E 60 trim will handle your task for 12psi. I use a t3/60-1 and make 277whp on a stock LS motor with just a tad bit more lag than the standard t04b/e's, but i get good power from 5k on up. I'm going to experiment with some in house porting and some 6240T Crower cams and see if i can't break 300whp on my stock LS on pump gas.

 

rock on with that boostaholic!!!

as for why ls over gsr?

yes, cost. $300 for a complete, running engine from a person I personally know and trust is a HELL of a lot better than $1500 for something from another country that I don't know the history of.

'course, if anyone's willing to send me a complete, running b18c for $500 I'm all ears.

 

no longer stock

 

I'm running basically what you want..check my bio to see nearly everything i've done. I do not have an s200 of my own yet, but right now I am running a friends stage 4b while he waits to find the right civic. And I can get away with 15lbs on pump gas, but I refuse to test any higher. With some 112 or better I will start tuning up to around 20-25psi. The block should be capable of more, but I don't want to risk trashing an eagle rod.
If you don't plan on building the head at all, leave your redline stock. You don't want to float a valve, and LS heads are notorious for that.

 

I meant stock LS bottom end

 

The .63 turbine a/r is perfect. The .60 compressor is fine, but I think the .50 compressor is better for a mid-boost (10-15psi) LS. It is more efficient in the 3000-4000rpm range. I'd go with that one, unless you plan on revving to 8000+ rpms, then the .60 becomes the better choice.

P.S. I run a .63 turbine at 10psi and have full boost around 3000-3700, depending on the gear.

 

if you decision to chose blocks (ls VS Vtec) is decided by money, this is really the wrong hobby for you. Do it right or don't do it at all.

Save up get the GSR. have patience (Sp?) friend. good things come to those who wait. Blown engines come to those who don't.


[Modified by Turbo E, 9:20 AM 10/25/2002]

 

he can go ls/vtec later.

 

**** the nay sayers, I'm very happy with my LS engine and always have been. She's been reborn to a 2.0L bulletproof block just recently. I can't wait to get it back on the road. An LS is just a potentand engine as a GS-R if prepped right. Cams, a mild port job, and a skunk2 IM will do wonders for a stock LS's shitty stock topend.

I'm running a T3(.63a/r)/T04E(54trim). It seemed to work very well on my 1.8L all the way to 8k rpm at 10 psi of boost. I'm thinking though I may need a bigger turbo though for my 2.0L beast(T3/60-1). I'm sure your 60trim that you've choosen will work just fine.

Unless you'd be willing to buy my turbo, so I can get a bigger one


[Modified by Speed PHreak, 1:11 PM 10/25/2002]

 

So by this rationale, the LS engine is the wrong engine to turbocharge?? I must be the only one who doesn't get this statement.....


so turbocharging a GE sleeved, forged internals, LS engine will cause it to blow up under 12-15 psi but if it's a GSR it won't blow up? I plan on putting a lot into building the block itself, but I just don't see the point in spending another $1000 on raw materials that will end up being torn completely down and most of it replaced.....like colin said, if I REALLY need to have VTEC, i can go LS/VTEC later on.......besides, what's to stop me from adding the block girdle now so that all i have to do is swap heads and reprogram my EMS? I understand that a lot of people have powerful turbocharged VTEC engines. There's also a lot MORE people with equally powerful, more torquey, non-VTEC engines. Just because I choose the latter, doesn't mean I'm doing it wrong.

 

methinks I am misunderstood. What I mean is I believe th GSR block has more potential than the LS. as it already comes with a better flowing head, thats just a bonus. also the GSR block/head has better oiling for sustained High RPM usage.

You seem set on sleeving the block. good, its a smart thing, but IMO same mods done to either block and everything else being equal, (meaning mods), the GSR block will make more power.

It sounded like your decision was being made by money rather than needs. If I assume incorectly, my apologies. I just believe the GSR to be superior. Both blocks will blow up if tuned incorrectly. in my experience, never buy the lesser part if there is a superior model available. then i wont "If I had the XXXpart instead I coulda made even more power!"

I mean no offence.

 

none taken. my theory: it's the internet. pissing contests here only lead to needing a new keyboard.

thanks for clarifying, being that the new job i got pays $9/hr and offers lots of happy overtime, there's a chance i might save up for a gsr longblock. i clicked one of those ads at the top of the screen (always love for h-t!) and found a place that sells just GSR longblocks. that's the main reason i really didn't wanna go GSR, cause i'm a cable tranny car and therefore buying a full swap is just gonna be a lot more money for stuff i don't need. now that i've found a longblock seller though, meh.........who knows.

 

good luck with the motor. whichever you pick, save some money for Hondata

 

hehe thanks.........i knew i was going hondata long before i decided on a block. come to think of it, i'm still not decided on a block.

 

What year/model car you got? Since you mentioned something about a cable tranny car i'm assuming you've got a either an 88-91 Civic/CRX or 90-93 'teg. 88-91 cars it'd be easier to go with a Zdyne SECU since those years are still OBD-0 and Zdyne is an excellent standalone for OBD-0. If you're 92-93 a 'teg, that of course is OBD-1 and Hondata is right for you

Just being helpful.


[Modified by Speed PHreak, 1:30 AM 10/26/2002]

 

yup........by the name, one can see that i've got me a teg.

92 LS