This is my 96 Accord that I got from my uncle that I'm completely revamping.
170k I believe?
Currently at 225k+ (June, 2013)


When I first got it.





Things I've done to it since then.

Dropped in a F22A6 cam (reground)
Ported the head
Valve springs/retainersIntake
2.25 piping with a Xlerator muffler, 2.5 inch 45 degree slice tip
Kamikaze 4-1 headers (cancelled the order on them because my engine blew)
A/C delete
P/S delete
B/S belt delete
Gates Timing Belt

Trans Cooler with temp gauge
Rebuilt the Autotragic and modified it. Shifts harder and holds all 4 gears. (it also keeps 1st locked instead of letting the revs fall)


Weight Reduction: Currently weighs 2589lbs (starting weight of the LX is 2965, mine had a couple off additional options like electric seats, security system, Alpine 6 disc, rear door speakers [most just have the front and the package tray speakers], electric antenna, and some more stuff I can't remember. All bringing it to an est 3025-3050)


Tire/Rim
Street: 245/45R16 16x7.5 (17lb rim) 15mm spacers
Dirt: 195/65R15s
Wet/Soft: Firestone Winterforces (every other treadblock removed, mid section not the shoulder)
Dry/Hard: Bridgestone Blizzaks

I use Hawk Black pads with DOT 5.1 fluid


Deleted: everything but the dash, glove box, and insulation (all but the section that requires the dash to be removed, I will remove it eventually).

Added: Wink 5 Panel mirror, Keysey hood pins, mud flaps, KC 35 series fogs, aluminum wrapping the center console for switches. (I need more switches).








My plans:
Full belly plate 6061 1/16th aluminum
AEM EMS (If I make enough money at the time, I will go for a Motec system)
Blistein shocks with custom spring rates
Polyutherane everything
Unsprung 6 puck Clutchmasters
8lbs Fidanza
H22 trans with a MFactory 5.15 and helical LSD.
Terratrip 303 Rally Computer
Pacenotes light
Kick plate for Co-Driver
8 point race cage
Seam weld the chassis
7 point racing harness with Sparco seats
15x8 & 15x7 Bride rims
Rear disc swap
Big Brake swap
Wilwood Master cylinder (high volume 3/4 or 7/8 I'll find out after the brake swap)
2x Hella 220 Jumbos 9.5"x4" (replacing the KC 35s)
4x Hella 500s 6" diameter


The F22b2 plans were:
Bore/Stroke to 87/105-110mm
Supercharger (Vortech V-5F mounted where the A/C used to be)
TMIC along with the hood scoop to match
Get a new head and put 31mm intake and 31mm exhaust valves on it, port, etc.
Cam with a .55 max lift on both lobes
Kaizen Speed B/S delete
Crank oil scraper and pan baffles


Until this happened via hydrolock. Long story short I was forced into the lane with 1.5-2 feet of water and I couldn't stop without having a Jeep in my rear seat.





So now I'm pretty much stuck on the direction to take. Might get another B2 or I might not. There is a H23 for sale pretty cheap near me but I might not be able to get the money in on time. Soooo Yeah.

As far as things I have done, I did do this about a month ago. https://honda-tech.com/forums/honda-accord-1990-2002-2/how-install-hood-pins-94-97-a-3148075/
I also installed the KC 35s which I more than likely will remove in exchange for Hella 220 Jumbo's.

 

FINALLY. A build thread, that blows about your motor. Hell get the H23 if you can, it will give you more torque to deal with as far as off-roading goes. I'm so anxious to start my build....

 

yeah, I'm gonna pull the head off in about 3 hours just out of pure curiosity. To see how much water got in of course.

Edit: I'll post and pretty early on this part

 

---skip to post 10---


Much to my dismay, family decision has come to end the life of this vehicle.
Going to be parting out the very little that the car has.

It is indeed a sad departure but it is the best logical decision
As much numerous times in its life I have been illogical and kept it in turn making me throw more money at it.

Est: 1.2k in parts when I part it.



EDIT: So much for a build thread....

 

aw man wtf? seriously??? i wanted to see a lil sedan become a rally car

 

---skip to post 10---


Yeah, I'm staying in the Honda game though. Gonna grab a Metropolitan and rip it a new one. In due time I'll bring to life another car, I just wish it was this one.

 

Like the idea for the car.....
Not so much the "honda game" part lol....

 

---skip to post 10---



Just a saying haha, rather the Accord "game" than anything.
I don't care for too many other models

 

Its fun to mod Accords. Honestly Civics to Accords (tastefully modified that is) there are WAY more civics, tegra's, etc.

 

So, I pulled off the head and this is what I found. I can assure you it's not coolant from the head as I drained most of the fluid out and I watched to make sure I didn't drop anything into the cylinders before I inspected them.
It cracked the cylinder walls in all 4, I can feel the ruts with my feeler through the coolant jackets.

Note: Dirty water + coolant. (not oil)




READY TO WORK nargargangogango.





Pulling the valves out and whatnot.





Enter the Milwalkee.



^^ (After cleaning up the exhaust port with the flapper bit)

vvv Slowly porting and rechecking. (Using a Superflow 600 to check progress)

No where near the 1/2 way done mark.







Plan: Drop Engine and Transmission
Remove the Auto, drop in a manual H22 trans, already sourced it. (I had to sell my fidanza 8lbs and clutchmasters 6 puck to support this. So I'll be using whatever I find for the transmission for the time being.)
Replace with a junk yard motor.
Port head while I have a drivable vehicle.
Buy another block and build it, then swap when complete.

 

Watch how far you take those ports out... they have thin walls in some places and they are surrounded by a water jacket. If you thin them out too far you may have overheating issues, or worse, you may break into a jacket.

That's why I switched to the F22A (PT3) cylinder head. It isn't completely surrounded by a water jacket. That being said, with a mild port job these heads can still flow good numbers for a mild N/A or forced induction build.

 

Thanks, my main thing was to remove the casting lines, not much deeper than that.

I pulled that exhaust port [Cylinder 1] out to
217.4cfm@28" with a valve life of .5"
201.2@28" with a lift of .4"
170@28" with a life of .3"
This is with the 29mm valves.
I plan to revalve the head with 33mm intake and 31mm exhaust valves. Being said the plan is 375bhp using a supercharger and a 2mm over bore and 10mm stroker. (87mm/105mm, assuming the block can take it with some cutting for the rod clearance. If it can take more than 105 I'll definitely go more.)

The pictures in that post were from last week, I haven't gotten any from yesterday. If you have anything in specific that you could tell me that would be awesome.

 

Sounds like you have eventing well in hand.. I can't think of anything else for now... It's the exhaust side that requires the most work. Going with the 31mm valves and opening up the throat will help a lot. The intake ports can flow north of 300 with a little bit of work.

I believe that the intake valves are 34mm are they not?

What intake : exhaust ratio are you shooting for?

 

You're keeping it!?

 

I was aiming for a 90% ratio, given the surface areas of the two, I arrive at 88% with that combo. I thought about a 34mm but that would bring it down to the low 82-83%.

754.76sq-mm (Exhaust)
855.3 sq-mm (Intake)



EDIT: Someone seems more excited than I am. haha


EDIT2: I'm going with the stroking plan as I would like a nice wide power band for racing. Given what I will be running, falling out the band happens alot. If I can avoid having issues out of the main band, that'll be a major advantage. On the plus side, it'll make the car much more driveable on the street as far as available torque.

 

Yes, an offroad CD with a B2 in it. Its nice to see something outside the usual.

 

So I went to the junk yard to grab an engine.
Which there no good ones besides the one I wanted which some guys grabbed right before I arrived. They were wheelbarreling it when I walked in.
Then I completely stopped caring when I found this.


BB2 Si Prelude (93, H23]


Got in it, shifted a couple gears, nice and solid.
I'll upgrade to solid metal ends for the cables to make everything nice and crisp.
Along with shifter base bushings of course.
I'll buy them a short time after I get this all wrapped up.





Some smartass let all of the coolant underneath it when they removed the radiator so I used a backseat I found in the yard as a non-mobile creeper. Some nice fellow cut the exhaust after the header and before the resonator so I had a clean shot to the service hole once I moved the heat shield.



I may put a short shift adapter on this then extend the shift assembly up 5 inches up and 1 inch to the left. I'll see how it feels driving first.



I'm going to go back sometime this week and grab the H23 trans out of it along with pedals and clutch linesThere was an H22 trans being sold near me but he just sold it.

Anyways, got some more work done to head, didn't flow it this time around because I'm not done.










Also, one question.



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Slammed or Stock?

 

So after about 3 days in an out of the yard. (I had to stop on days 1/2 due to nearing heat stroke. I cut it real close on day 2 but as a result there was only the 4 mount bolts left and the intermediate shaft.)
It got my new trans out of the Lude.



Just as a note I only took the slave cyl, trans, trans mount, and shifter cables/shifter from this. Everything else was people who came after I did and tore the damn thing a new one.



Underneath the car was a massive pool of engine oil, coolant, and mountain dew. So, I pulled the already nasty smelling backseat out of the trunk and used it as my creeper since I would prefer not to bath in the concoction. It dried up a bit on the last day so it looks NOTHING like what it did when I first started. (In pic I mean)


Yay



All she needs now is some fluid and clutch/flywheel for her to slip onto her input shaft.






Also, I saw this on my way home whilst stuck in a traffic jam. (18 wheeler took 15 minutes to back up into a construction lot). I lol'd quite hard. I'm lovin that plate.

 

+1 on the manual conversion, just make sure you buy a grabby clutch especially if you're going to be on dirt! What model block will you be running, same with everything inside. I'm curious.

 

Well at the moment I'm stripped for cash and I'd seen a clutch/plate for sale in the Lude section so I'mma try to grab that then get any old flywheel for the time being.
Then I'll save up and rebuy a Fidanza and unsprung 6puck Clutchmasters.
I've received news that the H/F blocks can easily fit 110mm strokes so that gives me hope to find what the end means are. That of course I'll find out when I tear down this old block.
I'm limited to a displacement of 2.941 Liters by my classes adjustment factors. 1.7 for Turbo/Super and 1.2 for 4 or more valves. The total adjusted displacement cannot surpass 6 liters.

This limit will leave me at the highest with a 123.5mm stroke with a 87mm bore.

Oh, I forgot to say I'm sticking with the F-series block.

As far as the SC I believe I've already stated i'm going with a V5-F from Vortech to get me to mah goaaalls.
375hp crank with the powerpeak being aimed at 5200rpm.
Having the peak large and low will give it a much wider torque band which is quite suitable for this type of racing.
Another thing is because I've chosen the peak to stay this low my stroke choice won't have any affect on anything else. Well rather, because the large stroke which inherently lowers the top engine rpm I'd be limited but, my band has already been planned to stay below my 25m/s piston speed limit.

115mm - 6520rpm
120mm - 6245rpm
125mm - 6000rpm
130mm - 5765rpm

I can definitely rev higher should I need to but I would prefer not to.

Given 123.5mm stroke at the power peak the MPS would be at 21.4 m/s.

I might also possibly go with a 88mm bore instead and drop the stroke to 120mm which would bring the MPS down to 20.8 but, with 88mm pistons, the sleeve wall be thin for a boosted application so more than likely that won't be an actual option.

 

Allllright PROGRESS

After waiting, and hunting the yards for weeks upon weeks I found an engine I wanted to pull.

I've checked out about 17 but I decided on this one after seeing the car and the engine itself.

This being my trusty steed for the whole thing.



Anyways, this car was in pretty good condition before it was tore into.






Got to work on day 1, did everything but the mounts. I kinda forgot the adapter for my Titan-1 breakerbar.

So I can back day two, broke those mount bolts and chained her up.




Threw her in the bed and prepared for a ride home



Grabbed the hoist at the shop, then threw it up on the stand and got to work.



Everything looking sweet as I go along.








Even the ports are looking clean as all hell on it





The darn thing even has a freshly installed belt on it.




Oh and for why the car is in the junk yard, I imagine for trans front pump failure. The torque converter had a massive amount of heat disclouration on it's shaft and that is the primary cost of such.



Everything manual for my car has been completed, I'm just messing with this motor and she'll be on the road tearing **** up.

I'm pulling the head of tomorrow and milling it as much as possible. Then I'm gonna stick it back together and crank her up.

Had 220lbs of compression using an impact on the end of the motor. (250-350rpm)




EDIT: For GhostAccord

I figure you would know or possibly have the numbers (if not I'll just find out when I do the work anyways).
Any idea how much the compression ratio will bump up for milling?
I think I'm gonna take off 1.5mm-2.5mm of the head based on how much meat there is when I pull it.
I'm gonna CC it and whatnot afterwards and determine what CR and gas I will get/need but if you have any foresight that would be cool.

 

I've been waiting to see progress on this thing for awhile. Gave up on my Accord rally project. Lancer doe.

 

Looking gooooddd.

You don't understand how my mind was like "YESSS "" when I saw that picture.
Where can I follow this?

Needs moar airtime for the next photo.

 

Forum over at EvolutionM you can follow. lol I'm anxious to see what it can do, we have local rallys all the time. Be fun to rip down some dirt roads with it. Heck I've already done that a few times. I just have to get the exhaust sorted out because its currently dumping out the cat and is uncomfortably loud.

http://forums.evolutionm.net/02-03-l...l#post10883052

 

You'll get used to the cat pipe if you give it time.
Haha
Try the same thing but in my car, with no insulation and coming out of the first flexible pipe (precat). It was lovely. >_>

Every downshift was accompanied with a loud triple bang.

Sub'd