I have a d15b2 block freshly rebuilt with new rings and pm7 pistons and a rebuilt d16a6 head with super tech performance valves. I have spark and fuel and compression. It just won't turn over. My ecu is pm6 and the mil is only throwing o2 sensor code. Need help

 

Not cranking and not turning over are two entirely different things so please clarify which one it's NOT doing.

How did you verify spark/fuel/compression?

 

I have compression/ spark/ fuel. Timing is on TDC and I have bluishwhite fire on d16a6 timing marks and bluish orange fire on d15b2 timing marks. I'm stumped Is my distributor bad? It turns over and back fires that's it.

 

This is just a hunch but did you remember to connect the battery terminal ground?


EDIT

Nevermind that idk what im talking about lol i only rebuilt an engine once.

You probably have a bad starter or connection.

 

So what were your compression results? If you are receiving spark on all four plugs it should still fire up. What injectors are you using? Have you had a chance to verify that all four are functional?

When you say you checked against both A6 and B2 timing marks, do you mean you are physically moving the cam gear a tooth over on the timing belt each time (or maybe you're adjusting on an adjustable cam gear)?

 

what distributor is on the engine?

 

Sounds like timing is off double check that also check rotor if its loose

 

I'm getting 150ish across all four cylinders. I'm using a tdu01 distributor I have dpfi intake and d16a6 head and cam . I'm getting fuel to number one cylinder and its got compression and air intake so bits getting air. Its something with the spark

 

I believe that's your problem (actually certain). The PM6 ECU is designed to run a dedicated injector for each cylinder, 4 total. The DPFI manifold has a primary and secondary fuel injector, 2 total. You'd need to run a matching DPFI ECU or convert to MPFI.

*If you plan on doing any performance related swap later on, the MPFI conversion is a necessity.

 

I've tried a pm5 ecu as well and it still backfires and floods out.

 

Prior to the rebuild everything was running?

And you're certain your mechanical timing is correct? And what about your ignition timing?

 

Should I use the d16a6 timing marks or the d15b2 timing marks? How to advance or retard distributor timing?

 

There's a hint, since you haven't been answering questions directly...

Given that you're basically running a DX engine with an Si camshaft (assuming it's correct but really doesn't matter) you should be running the mechanical timing as a DX (1.5 timing marks on the cam gear). Try twisting the distributor counterclockwise (towards the firewall) and then try to start it up on the PM5 ECU. To correctly time it, the engine needs to be running first. Once it's running you need a timing gun to set ignition timing properly.

So I'm going to ask again, how were you adjusting the mechanical timing before? You stated that you tried both the B2 and A6 marks. Were you removing the belt and shifting the cam gear over? Or are you using an adjustable cam gear and making the adjustments on that without removing the timing belt?

 

I'm using the d16a6 timing gear and I set the cam on its marks using the crankshaft and timing belt rotation and then set crank tdc removing the belt off cam gear. I bought a adjustable timing gear and its not marked for timing

 

Eek that sucks. Did you try rotating the distributor a bit and then trying to fire it up yet? Also, I'm pretty sure it's not a problem but double check the firing order of your spark plug wires.

 

My distributor has been going thru coils left and right so is the ICM bad? Before rebuild it was running but had a bad water pump. I have went thru 4 coils since 25k miles ago. I'm stumped. It acts like its a tooth off but it will spin over and just dump fuel flooding #1 cylinder.