Hey guys,
I just want to know if there is anything I should look into when replacing these parts? I looked at the sticky, and youtube instructions, they looked simple enough. Pretty much I just unbolt three bolts for the master and it will come right out right? Also, for the slave, I didnt get how to uninstall and install in. Based on what I see, the slave cylinder, just pull out and it will come out? What to do when putting back in? Also, I read some users commenting, once they put everything back, their clutch have no pressure, even when they tried to bleed the system. Is there something I should do before hand? Can anyone help? I asked around at some local shop, and they want around 250 just to replace the master cylinder. The replacement look simple, so wonder why they charge so much?
This is for a 95 Accord with H22a swap (not sure if the swap make any different).

Thanks a bunch!!!

 

For the slave cylinder, first remove the clutch pipe. (be careful to not bend the line)
Then there will be two bolts on the side of it. (on the lower portion of the slave cylinder) Once you remove these two bolts it should fall out of the arm.
Then you're done.
Of course you have to bleed the system after reinstall.


EDIT: Remove the master cyl. reservoir before you remove the master cylinder. It'll make your life easier.

 

I did saw that on the video instruction. I just wonder if there is anything more critical I should watch out for. Thanks D!

 

This should be similar to my gen. For the master cylinder, leave the reservoir attached and just remove the bracket so you can access the hard line that connects to the master cylinder. Using only a flare wrench and not an open ended wrench, remove the hard line after putting a rag down to catch the brake fluid that leaks. Get under the dash and you will need to remove the cotter pin that holds the thorough bolt that runs through the frame and the master cylinder. This is actually going to be the hardest part. You will need some sort of 90 degree bend pick as the cotter pin is in a bad spot. After straightening out the cotter pin, remove it and remove the thorough bolt. Then remove the two holding bolts. One is easy, the one on the right, and the other is in a bad spot. Use a universal joint to get to it. Then remove the master cylinder from the engine bay with the reservoir attached and transfer it to the new one. Then check the play on the old rod and compare it to the new one. You are going to want the same amount of play on the new push rod as the old push rod so gently push it in and out until the point at which it engages has the same length of play til it is fully extended on the new cylinder as the old one does AFTER loosening the lock nut and turning the push rod clockwise or counterclockwise. Then tighten the lock nut and put it all back together. The reason why you do this as if you don't adjust it, you will have a different spot at which the clutch engages. You want it to stay the same instead.

For the slave cylinder it's really straightforward. Again just use a flare wrench don't use an open ended wrench on the hard line connection.

 

Cool, that's what I was hoping for, something straight forward with no hidden cautions lol. Thanks a bunch! I will try to replace mine sometime next week. I got annoyed, mine is leaking and have to refill every two weeks...

 

Ya, mine did the same thing before(leaking very slowly) and I replaced the rubber line over the transmission thinking that was where the leak was before realizing it was still leaking and finally I got smart and looked at the master and saw the real leak there. It's amazing how small the leak is. I woulda thought it woulda been faster.

 

I would just replace the whole line between the two to get rid of that damn in-line dampener. There's a thread somewhere that has a list of what parts and the length of line to use.

 

Mine leak inside the firewall. I think that has been going on the past 5 years lol.

 

No offense at all meant, chris, but I'd just as soon have it there. I haven't heard these things ever going bad or leaking. And my rubber hose wasn't leaking after all, I just thought it was.

 

He meant if you wish to remove that dampener.

edit: to get rid of that disconnected clutch feel you would normally experience.

 

No offense taken! I just hate how it seems to make the clutch feel like it's... not there... sometimes. Gives it weird take up at different points in the pedal range. Screws me up all the time. Much different than the other vehicles with clutches I've driven in the past. Does it at random times, too, so I know it's nothing to do with the slave/master/clutch. Pretty cheap, too, I think all the parts are like $70 or something. I'm definitely doing it during this coming winter's planned drivetrain 'refresh' in my car.

 

Is there a particular brand you guys recommended? Should I even get it replace at all? The only downside for me is to refill the fluid once every two weeks or so, and a little dirty on the inside of the firewall. It been like that for many years now, and I havent had any issue with it whatsoever.

 

You definitely need to replace the master cylinder. It could, at any time, completely give out and leave you stranded.

We're talking about the clutch dampener that is located near the rubber hose no top of the tranny.

 

Alright, thanks a bunch. Will do this weekend and see how its goes.