93 civic, 5 speed. A6 bottom, Z6 head. No issues whatsoever until now.

Left work the other day, shifted from 1st to 2nd at 3500 rpm, heard a very faint pop, car died. Timing on cam had jumped 2 teeth, I pulled the head, NO bent valves. All put back together, re-timed, it's dead on.

Car will not start, it will crank over just fine, relay clicks rapidly as I try to start it, where-as it didn't when I first put the head back on. It was getting spark and fuel, but now no spark at all. CEL stays lit if jumped and now I can't hear the fuel pump prime as well.

I have checked all fuses, replaced main relay (different one does not click when cranking), checked my grounds. I'm at a lose?

 

Hmm, 2 teeth doesn't seem like enough to cause the car to die like that. Run like crap, sure, but not die. It also shouldn't cause a no-fuel, no-spark, no-start situation. I'd address each problem individually.

1.) Start with the no-fuel. Hook up a fuel pressure gauge to the fuel filter and make sure you're getting proper fuel pressure via the fuel pressure test from the manual. If you don't have a fuel pressure tester (or can't get a loaner from Autozone or wherever), you can do a poor man's fuel test and undo the banjo bolt on the fuel filter slightly then turn the key to the 'on ii' position. If fuel sprays out, then you know you're getting fuel. If you do it the "poor-man's" way, though, be careful and make sure to wrap plenty of towels around the filter... you don't want to burn your garage down. Having a fire extinguisher on hand would be a good idea too, just in case.

If you're not getting fuel (or proper pressure), and you're absolutely sure the main relay is working, then I'd start suspecting the fuel pump.

2.) If you're getting fuel, but no spark, check all four plugs and wires. If none of the four plugs are sparking at all, start tracing the problem back up the line. Is the distributor getting power? Check it with a multimeter. If there's power going into the dizzy, but none is coming out, then your no-spark is likely caused by a bad ignition coil or something of that nature.

 

Car is at work, I just got home and grabbed 2 known good coils and an ignitor as well as my volt meter. I'm going back later to do more tests, i'll post my findings.

 

Double check your G101 thermostat ground and your valve cover ground. I've had a bad valve cover ground give me almost the exact same problem earlier this month on a customer's vehicle. I know you've already checked your grounds, But so did I.

 

grounds are fine, cleaned and tight. changed ignitor and coil tested good. yellow/green wire at dizzy reads roughy 6v dropps to 4v when cranking. now getting a very faint/orangish spark

 

Disconnect all 4 wires (BLU, YEL/GRN, BLK/YEL and WHT/BLU) from the ignitor unit. Test the BLK/YEL and WHT/BLU wires. Turn the key to 'ON' and test for battery voltage between each of those wires and body ground. Should be at least 12v.

 

underhood fuse box, top most left fuse, 15amp. doesnt have any power, should it?

 

is that fuse 31? The one with a YEL/WHT wire leading off it?

 

it's the 15a ECU fuse

 

Also noticed, at least without the clutch pressed, the underhood fuse box, heater relay clicks when key turned to start position.

 

Woa, hold on. The ECU fuse should be 7.5 amp. the Main Relay fuse should be 15 amp.

 

Fuse 31 is 15 amps, next to it, fuse 32 is 7.5 amps. Fuse 31 doesn't have power running to it.

 

Fuse 31 should have power running through it, at least for approximately 2 seconds when the main relay is active. Maybe try attaching a multimeter to the output wire for fuse 31 (YEL/WHT) and sitting the multimeter face down on the windshield. Keep an eye on the voltage as you turn the key to 'ON II'. If there is no voltage, at any point, and the main relay does not click, then that is at least part of your problem.

Have you tested that you're getting any fuel pressure at the fuel filter yet?

Also, it seems like the one YEL/GRN dizzy wire you checked should have more than 4-6v. I'll have to double check the specs for that wire, but i'd imagine it should be full battery voltage. Then again, that wire comes from the ECU, so perhaps not.

Have you tested the BLK/YEL wire leading into the dizzy for battery voltage with key in 'ON' position?

 

Fuse box is relocated inside the car, without wires being cut.

No I haven't tested the BLK/YEL wire.

I do however, have a Helm's manual for a 95 Integra, so I'm going to try to read thru that on Monday after work, and see what other tests i can run to figure something more out.

 

ecu tests good, main relay is good, power to dizzy, grounds are good.

what/where should i be testing now?

 

Well, if you're getting full battery voltage going INTO the dizzy, you know the spark problem lies somewhere between there and the plugs themselves. Checked the plug wires? Rotor and contacts in the dizzy nice and clean? Have you disconnected all 4 wires from the igniter and tested the blk/yel and wht/blu wires within the dizzy for voltage with the key turned on?

 

Is your CEL still staying lit when you jump the diagnostic plug and turn the key over? If you checked the thermostat and the valve cover ground, then check the ACG fuse under the dash. I believe it's in the top row all the way to the right.

 

Fuse underdash is good. I have not tested the Ignitor, but I have replaced it with a known good one. Spark from wires thru screwdriver to headers is a small orangish spark.

 

and Yes CEL is still solid, no codes are being thrown.

 

Still check the aforementioned wires in the dizzy. Just because the igniter is known to work doesn't mean the various wires in the dizzy are carrying current like they're supposed to. Check your ohms on the plug wires too just for s&g. Also, try checking the spark with the actual plug still attached to the wire. Still crappy orange?

 

ok, will check the wires and such later. I also did use a plug to check spark, still crappy orange

 

If all of your plugs are throwing weak orange spark, it sounds like your ICM or Ignitor has gone bad. You said you have the FSM? Follow it's procedures to test both parts.

 

Yea, the ignitor tests i was listing above came straight from the Honda Service Manual. If you've got a copy of that, you've already got better advice and troubleshooting procedures in written form than I could ever give you here.

 

put dizzy on another z6, fired right up and ran fine. put my egu in other cae and it ran with that as well. once we unplugged injector clips, it acted like it wanted to start for a couple rotations then just rolled over. getting correct voltage at injector clips. only thing i have atm is to change out the injectors.

 

Well, I thought I had another set of OBD1 LS injectors, but they were OBD2, so tomorrow I'm going to put my a6 ones on with the resistor box and see what happens.