My 1991 honda accord cuts off when I come to a stop. I take it out of gear and have the clutch pushed in. Also even when I'm in gear the rpm stays the same even though I'm flooring it in 1st gear. I keep the gas pedal down then it finally catches and leaps forward then does the same in second gear. This never happened until a really bad thunderstorm came by, someone took my gas tank's cap and we think the rain got into the gas tank causing it to do this. Is this possible? It sputters a lot too after the rain.

 

You could have moisture inside your distributor cap that is causing this. Open it up and see. Or maybe its just water in your gas tank; if enough got inside I am sure it would cause that.

Add some seafoam or fuel stabilizer with some 93 octane and see if it goes away.

 

I'll try that tomorrow, I really hope that's all it is. I drove it around for 30 minutes and it cut off when I stopped every time. It's the same on a hill so I stall 4-5 times before it catches and lets me get out of 1st.

 

watch out mishako is suddenly a expert. hahaha reading threads doesn't make you a expert

 

Just because you live doesn't make you an expert on life.


Burn.

 

If you're up for it, remove the fuel line (make sure you've relieved the fuel pressure first) and put the end into a container. Turn the ignition switch to ON (not start) and pump some fuel into the container. Do this a couple of times and check for water in the gas.

An alternative would be to pull the fuel line on the return side of the pressure regulator, but if you do that, you'll be pumping suspected water-contaminated gas through the fuel rail.

 

Stop.

He already has anyways, considering he's been driving it this way. Nothing to really contaminate, it already has been. My vote is on the gas being bad, hopefully it isn't too much. You can always drain the tank. There is a 17mm bolt on the bottom of the tank which you can use to drain it in case of whatever may present itself.

 

You should drain the fuel tank. Your temp fix could be to throw some "Isoheet" in it. You can get some at Walmart in the fuel injector cleaner section, but it sounds like you got too much for Isoheet to fix. I would just drain the tank.

 

I'll drain the tank and everything but I hope this is the only cause. I tried the self diagnosis test but using a jumper wire and watching the check engine light for blinks but it just stayed on and didnt blink.

 

lmao putting words in my mouth. when did i say i was?

 

So I drained the Gas tank, put new gas in it with some fuel injector cleaners but it still does this, even when driving and in gear. It'll stay at 1k-1.5k rmps when I'm flooring it. At one point I rev it to about 3k rpms and it idles so low after, that it almost chokes down.

 

check tps

 

What is the tps?

 

Throttle position sensor.

 

The TPS stands for the throttle position sensor (as basket_case mentioned). Said sensor tells the ECU where the throttle plate is in relation to everything else going on in the motor. Reading .5v at closed and .45 at WOT it tells the computer to open the injectors and manage the fuel trims. Actually it sounds like that's your issue, if the throttle is wide open BUT the computer can't sense it your car will be running half blind; basically.

The TPS is located on the throttle body towards the firewall. Check the wires for damage and the plug for corrosion, you may also need to replace it.

 

I'll check the tps in the morning, I drained my gas tank again and had a little filter in the oil pan I was using to drain the gas into, and the gas was brown. Completely solid. There was chips and chunks of rust too. So I replaced the fuel filter and the old one was actually pretty stopped up only letting enough guel through for idle I guess. When I put the new filter on it ran decently, then did it again..

 

Like I said, TPS.

On a side note ever Honda with 100k+ I've ever worked on has had a fuel filter that was damn near impossible to blow through. Poor fuel pumps of ours, but for the better!