Here's the back story for my 1991 honda accord. My front tires have worn down so unevenly that the inner parts of the tire were bare to the bone, and the outer tire had almost new looking tread. So i took my car in for an alignment and they suggested these two things get done:
1) "stabalizer end link bushings $95"
2) "front struts $325"

I bought 2 brand new struts already assembled for pretty cheap so i will put those in. What exactly though are stabilizer end link bushings? Anyone have a picture or diagram of where on my car that is? Is it just a quick and easy fix putting in new bushings somewhere?

Are the stabilizer end link bushings different than what they are talking about in this video? I know it's not the right year model but i figured it would be close. However i see nothing like this under my car.

 

It's all the same, but some cheaper ones (Napa) have a nut on both the top and bottom. That design is inferior if you live in the snow belt, I couldn't get mine off (napa made in china garbage) because the metal collar seized to the bolt..

Energy suspension makes solid polyurethane endlinks, I highly suggest you go with those. Just make sure you use a good amount of that white grease (should be supplied with it) if you do get them. I got them as well as the stabilizer frame bushings, what a difference they make!

As for the stabilizer bar frame bushings, there are two different sized stabilizer bars for that generation. The EX obviously has the bigger diameter then the base and LX models. They are pretty easy to install and don't forget the grease on those too. You might as well replace those too while your under there wrenching.

Now make sure when you talk to the dog ******* parts person, that you tell them you need the frame bushings specific to the model. They will try and say they are all the same size since the computer says so, but that is bullshit.

Google majestic honda and go to that site, you can find parts diagrams

 

Yup 90-97 cars use that type of endlink bushing.



Part #7 the rubber bushings are what normally crack and wear out.
If all you need is the bushings they will be ~$2.50 each from Honda totaling ~$20 bucks in parts. Unless your bolts, spacers and washers are rusted or missing then you will need all that hardware.

 

Sorry guys but i am actually really really new to fixing my own car. When you buy parts from honda, do you have to do it online? Or do all dealerships have the parts?

 

The dealerships have a place where you can order the parts inside.

I too would suggest going with the Energy Suspension kit if you want a very good kit. I paid like $20 shipped for it online and it was super easy to install. All you need are a couple wrenches and 30 minutes total.

Sorry, just saw it was a 91 Accord.

 

http://www.oreillyauto.com/site/c/de...er+bar+bushing


Would this be an okay set to buy for my car? I have an old crappy car so i'm not looking for highest of quality. And I can't wait for shipment. I need to change this as soon as possible.

 

Lol, i posted that link not even knowing it was energy suspension. Looks like a good buy then. I'll stop at O'reillys tomorrow i guess.

 

was the alignment shop suggesting that the struts and bushings being worn lead to the tire wear or did they just happen to notice these things while they were under there (setting your toe angle right to fix the wear problem)?

 

Did you want to upgrade your bushings to performance orientated ones or just replace them?

 

just want to replace, not upgrade. And i'm not sure if the alignment place thought those things lead to tire wear or not. But they suggested changing them. My car has actually been making noises when i turn and lots of clanking. I changed the bushings today and my car makes no more of those old sounds. I'm going to change struts tomorrow. How can you tell if you need new struts? Why did they suggest changing them?

 

Jounce the car (push down hard quickly) and see how many times it continues to bounce. If it settles relatively quickly they're good. (down because you pushed it, up, and slowly down [going back down again should be very minimal]) If it continues to bounce, the shocks are not doing their job.

 

The lower ball joint can also be a problem. Jack the car up. Grab the top and bottom of the tire and rock it back and forth. Also grab the sides of the tire and rock back and forth. Not sure what the specs are for your car, but in most cases there should be almost zero play.

I installed polyurethane sway bar bushings several years ago, really tightened up the feeling of the front end.