Its like im going to stop sign and i push the clutch in to put it in neutral but the rpms dont catch themselves it just falls and the engine dies. Its a b20vtec still breaking it in and it is burning oil thinking its a headgasket and the pcv is plug up i do have a breather kit ran to one port on the block and the port on the valve cover. but im wondering why its dying when i push the clutch in?

 

Does it only do it when you are coming to a stop? Is the clutch actually disengaging when you press it in?

 

yeah i can drive and it shifts smooths just when i push it in it like lets the rpms just fall but it'll rev in neutral. only does when i push clutch in

 

Could be a trans issue, we need to know what engine management is being used for your 2L Vtec motor, and the jist of your setup.

The bold above is your main concern.
A new build burning oil can only really come from improper machining/assy of the engine and/or operator negligence during the break in period
(not providing vehicle with proper tune for your specific setup/hosing down your bores/etc)
Your stalling issue could also be in part from improper fuel control/tune also.

I wish you luck on your oil control issue
And when you give details on your setup you will have a better chance getting an answer here

 

Freshly stock rebuilt b20 vtec. Ecu is chipped with b20/vtec basemap from crome for all stock internals launch control set at 4200 vtec at 4800 and redline at 8k

Motor
-b20b4 bottom end
-golden eagle block guard
-fresh rebuild with stock internals
-b16a2 tranny s4c
-fresh home
-arp rod bolts
-magnetic oil drain and tranny drain bolt
-itr oil pump,
-itr water pump
-Gsr timing belt
-oil catch can setup one line to block one line to valve cover.
-full Greddy exhaust
-rmf header
-injen intake

Head
-98 pr3-2 b16 head
-arp headstuds
-machine shop gave it a head test and it passed. Valve seals were check and the lash was set correctly
-has dual valve springs so not sure if its a b16a with type r internals or just dual valve springs or could even be a b16b type r head. Ill do more research.
-fresh mill of 5 thousands off
-new ls headgasket
-spark plugs
-fresh cheap oil

-motor still needs to be broken fully in and after needs a good street tune then will be ready

 

where is the oil leak? or is it "burning oil"

 

Its leaking from the oil pan gasket (barley) but thats becaused i reused the gasket but we all know that isnt the culprit. Then from the head and block under the vtec solenoid. And its also burning oil but the piston rings are completely seated yet so i dunno cause you can take the spark plug out and see shine on the piston. and i figured since the head was milled i would need to compensate with a thicker headgasket?

 

arent*

 

BumP

 

Its the tune/map

it is off obviously and should NOT be ran anymore until the culprit of your rich condition is fixed.

Plan to re-hone and re-ring.


Correctly machined and assembled motor really don't need much break-in. And there is no true safe basemap for setups like this that can differ from others.

 

But see its not smoking out of the tailpipe like it should if I was actually burning oil. I can just see a shiny glaze on the piston. Like its coming from the headgasket leaking or the rings or hell probably both being my luck. Is it worth to try the new headgasket since I have a milled head or did that ever even matter

 

bump

 

all i need is for why the clutch is acting up? just wanna know why it dies when i push it in, also when im coming to a stop i just let off all the pedals and push the break but keep the car in gear until about 1000 rpm or less and push the clutch in then it saves it but you gotta push it before 1k

 

What shop built that engine?

 

A shop in atlanta