What's the best/easiest way to pull off a B18C1 GSR head? Should I just pull it off with the intake manifold still attached? Or could I unbolt the IM and just move it back without having to disconnect EVERYTHING on the IM?

I've pulled the dual-runner IM by itself before, and it was a major PITA. If I could pull out the head and IM together I think that would be ideal.

I have to replace the head gasket, and I'll also be replacing my old, worn hydraulic style lost motion assemblies with the new revised spring-style units. What else should I consider replacing at this time? What's a good way to clean the carbon deposits off the valve surfaces and piston tops?

 

may as well replace the valve seals while the head is off

 

#4 and #5 in this pic right? Only $12 for the whole set of 8

 

https://honda-tech.com/forums/honda-civic-del-sol-1992-2000-1/%5Bdiy%5D-how-remove-b-series-cylinder-head-2950764/
http://www.civic-eg.com/viewtopic.php?t=14336
http://forums.tunedtech.ca/f21/b-ser...-vtec-604.html

 

I've only had to pull my head twice, both times I left the IM attached to the head.

If you're going through the effort to take the head off might as well do as much part replacing as you can.

The valves can probably be cleaned but I'd replace the LMA, springs, retainers, and valve seals.

It'll be interesting to see what the pistons and cylinder walls look like.

A few years ago my friend had a head gasket issue so we rebuilt the head and changed the piston rings. The car wasn't his daily and wasn't anything special so we honed the block while it was in the car.

 

i leave the manifold on when i pull heads. its a pain to get to all those bolts. when its off always check for warpage with a straight edge. if you dont have one take it to the machine shop to check and cut if needed. You dont need to replace the valve springs and retainers just because you removed the head. thats retarded unless you dropped a valve. I preferably like to replace valve seals and get valve job when i remove the head since they are notorious for leaking by and burning oil

 

The head has over 300k miles. It's more preventive maintenance. I'd rather spend an extra $200+ now versus taking the head off again.

 

I'll be replacing the LMA's and valve seals in addition to the head gasket. I'll already be putting nearly $300 into this thing (after just spending over $400 to replace the wires, battery, and distributor the first of the year) so I really can't afford to be putting another $200+ in for new valve springs and retainers.

 

wtf, are you trolling?

 

All his post's are like that.

 

If you have head bolts, leaving the manifold on is fine.

If you have head studs, it's easier to remove the manifold first.

Good luck cleaning off the deposits.

 

just take it to a machine shop to get cleaned save the hassle of doing it your self

 

I left the manifold on also its a pain to get the bolts

 

get the head cleaned? What about the tops of the pistons? I'm not planning on pulling the entire engine.

 

bring the head to the machine shop and have it inspected and cleaned, as in a hot tank. The top of the pistons you can clean yourself if youre not removing the motor. But if it blew a head gasket, you must check the block for warpage, if its warped, its gotta come out and be decked. Same with the cylinder head, but the machine shop can measure that for you.

 

Can I just get a precision straightedge and measure itself with my feeler gauges?

 

you can measure both yourself, but if either is warped, a machinest has to fix it

 

well yeah I understand that. Would save me some time though if they check out fine.

 

If the head gasket is done then the head IS warped and block may be also. I've seen a deviation of .003 cause combustion gasses to enter the cooling system.

I bought a 98 Civic EX for $550 because the block and head were both warped from an overheating issue. The girl who previously owned the car ran it for months with a bad head gasket, and at one point got so hot the plastic timing belt covers were melted.

 

Also it is best to pull the head with the manifold together. The GSR intake mani is a MAJOR PAIN to try and remove on the car.

 

I know how much of a pain it is, I've pulled the IM off before. Just wasn't sure if it was any more or less of a pain getting both off together with the size, weight, bulk of the whole thing.

Thing is my car has never overheated, and in fact the temp needle still stays at the usual position all the time. My brother's 02 Civic had a blown HG because it WAS overheating, and he pulled the head and had it checked at a machine shop and it checked out fine. He replaced his HG and it's been running fine ever since.

 

I had a CRX with an LS swap that came in recently. It had a dead cylinder from a popped head gasket but never once overheated. It's unusual to me when it happens like that. Even with the radiator almost empty the gauge would never climb.

If you catch a popped head gasket early enough and don't let the car overheat for more than a few minutes the damages are less significant. The civic I bought gave me a run around for a few days. I pulled the head and used my straight edge to check the surface and the head was crazy warped but the block wasn't. Long story short : After a head gasket swap and head resurfacing the gasket popped 75 miles later because the block was warped too.

 

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