Need help with mini me swap
Hello i just want to thank everybody in advance.
Alright I own a 1991 Honda CRX SI with the following mods
D16 vtec head(don't know which one just know its a d16 head)
D15b block
Obd0 crx ecu
If this matters
Dc headers
Skunk2 intake manifold with skunk2 throttle body
Orthodox underground pulleys
So my car turns on fine but runs really rich
I have two Ecus
First one is a pm4 it revs up to around 5500 then starts bogging
While driving it runs okay then around 2500-3500 it kinda bogs
Then I have a p28(obd1 I got a conversion harness) it won't rev past 3500 with this ecu
My mechanic told me that it bogs due to the fact that the car has been
Sitting so long that the gas is bad but I changed he fuel filter and put 91
Gas. And refilled.
I think the car bogs due to the obd0 ecu I think i should get a ob0 dizzy harness to obd1 and change the dizzy to a obd1 one and then use the p28 how does that sound I just don't think it could be the gas. But another question I have is if I do this will I have to change the injectors or could they be bad?
Vtec is not wired at all either. I just really need helps. Thanks again in advance.
Alright I own a 1991 Honda CRX SI with the following mods
D16 vtec head(don't know which one just know its a d16 head)
D15b block
Obd0 crx ecu
If this matters
Dc headers
Skunk2 intake manifold with skunk2 throttle body
Orthodox underground pulleys
So my car turns on fine but runs really rich
I have two Ecus
First one is a pm4 it revs up to around 5500 then starts bogging
While driving it runs okay then around 2500-3500 it kinda bogs
Then I have a p28(obd1 I got a conversion harness) it won't rev past 3500 with this ecu
My mechanic told me that it bogs due to the fact that the car has been
Sitting so long that the gas is bad but I changed he fuel filter and put 91
Gas. And refilled.
I think the car bogs due to the obd0 ecu I think i should get a ob0 dizzy harness to obd1 and change the dizzy to a obd1 one and then use the p28 how does that sound I just don't think it could be the gas. But another question I have is if I do this will I have to change the injectors or could they be bad?
Vtec is not wired at all either. I just really need helps. Thanks again in advance.
Hmm I'm no expert here but when I did mine I got everything to match the head or block. Find out what head you have (the head should be stamped with a code specific to the y8 or z6) then go and get the corresponding distributor with a conversion harness. Wire everything up including vtec. If you get an ecu jumper from rywire it should come with the vtec jumper and instructions. Make sure you are not throwing any codes. Im pretty sure it won't go past 3500 because you do not have everything wired right. You can use the old injectors on this swap. This is a start it tried to answer as much as I could. Finish it completely and it might help. Let us know what happens and shoot me a pm if you have questions about wiring or compatibility.
Your ecu, distributor and head should all be the same obd. I looked up the pm4 ecu and it looks like a dual carb ecu which wont run a fuel injected engine very well. Are you sure its not a PR4?
Also if you have a vtec head you will need a vtec ecu. So i would start with the p28 you already have. Get a distributor for a D16Z6, a obd-0 - obd-1 jumper and 4 wire O2 sensor harness and be done. I did a mini me on my sedan a few years ago and it started right up, no cel and ran good from the start. Heres what all i bought for it;
OBD-0 to OBD-1 rywire jumper with vtec
4 wire O2 sensor extension
4 wire O2 sensor (92-95 civic)
P28 ecu
D16z6 distributor, headgasket, timing belt, spark plugs and wires, intake manifold,
D16Y8 cam gear
Everything i got was under $400-$500 cant really remember. But it was a decent little upgrade from the stock dual point.
Also if you have a vtec head you will need a vtec ecu. So i would start with the p28 you already have. Get a distributor for a D16Z6, a obd-0 - obd-1 jumper and 4 wire O2 sensor harness and be done. I did a mini me on my sedan a few years ago and it started right up, no cel and ran good from the start. Heres what all i bought for it;
OBD-0 to OBD-1 rywire jumper with vtec
4 wire O2 sensor extension
4 wire O2 sensor (92-95 civic)
P28 ecu
D16z6 distributor, headgasket, timing belt, spark plugs and wires, intake manifold,
D16Y8 cam gear
Everything i got was under $400-$500 cant really remember. But it was a decent little upgrade from the stock dual point.
Probly not anything wrong with your fuel. Start with plugging in the p28. Its a vtec ecu and will run your vtec setup better than the pr4. Make sure your vacuum lines are all plugged in CORRECTLY and the vaccum hoses are good with no leaks or cracks anywhere. When i did my current gsr swap i didnt have a vaccum line right and was running so rich it had raw gas coming out of the exhaust. (Found all my exhaust leaks from gas spraying out of them too....lol)
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I just got a new obd1 z6 distributor with a dizzy obd0 to obd1 dizzy conversion but without the cap and I used a cap of a old non working distributor and car won't start. I don't know why. I know I have the firing order in order and I know I installed everything right. Could it be the cap? Also found out that my p28 is an automatic ecu could it be dad, I doubt it though cause it stated with the obd0 distributor. Very stressed and confused
Changed cap still not working tried another ecu and still not turning on has spark an fuel. Could it be cause the o2 sensor is not plugged in or the knock sensor?
Have you tried fresh gas? Since you said the car has sat for a long time. And make sure your cam timing is right. Make sure it has either a d16y7/y8 cam gear, or a adjustable cam gear. You have to have one or the other since you have a 1.6 head on a 1.5 block. Make sure your injectors are wired right. Also if your injectors require a resistor box, use one. If they dont then, do not use one. This swap is pretty straight forward. I did a mini me in my sedan as my first swap and had it running right away. If you lived closer i could help ya better...lol
*edit....just reread your origonal post. You did try fresh gas... Lol
*edit....just reread your origonal post. You did try fresh gas... Lol
The timing is right for sure and I know it isn't the fuel cause it worked before with the obd0 distributor. It sounds like its going to start but doesn't.
Eh... Pretty sure with a 1.5 bottom and 1.6 head you have to use a y7/8 cam gear. If you set the timing for the z6 cam gear, it will look correct on the cam geat but the cam will be off. The d15 block is slightly shorter than the d16 block so this is why you need the bigger cam gear to make up the difference. Im not doubting you that the timing LOOKS right but chances are, the cam is off. Thats probably your problem.
Dude wire your vtec, the reason your car bogs is because your engine is on limp mode. Wire everything and make sure you don't have a cell code. My h22 was sitting over 12 years and it start right up with new gasoline.
Eh... Pretty sure with a 1.5 bottom and 1.6 head you have to use a y7/8 cam gear. If you set the timing for the z6 cam gear, it will look correct on the cam geat but the cam will be off. The d15 block is slightly shorter than the d16 block so this is why you need the bigger cam gear to make up the difference. Im not doubting you that the timing LOOKS right but chances are, the cam is off. Thats probably your problem.
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No thanks I have it already. Found out that the reason it isn't starting is because the injectors aren't throwing out fuel. But I don't understand why? I don know what injectors I'm using. But they worked good before I converted the distrubtor to obd1. Like I Said when the distrubutor was obd0 everything worked just would lag around 3k-4k rpm. I also noticed I don't have a resistor box? Could that be it? Car is a 91 crx si
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