Questions about painting (gun, psi, coats, sanding, etc.)
Thread Starter
Honda-Tech Member
Joined: Feb 2013
Posts: 59
Likes: 0
From: Central, NJ
Questions about painting (gun, psi, coats, sanding, etc.)
Alright so I am planning on painting my '94 Del Sol myself to save a little money. I have no experience with this first off, and would appreciate any help. I would appreciate any comments criticizing or recommending me to not paint it to be kept to yourself. I'm doing it!!!
I am curious as to what specifications of a spray gun I am looking for, information on what type of compressor I need, and much more.
I need to know what PSI to spray at, how many coats, etc.
I basically need a full tutorial I would say. I need to know what grit to sand at and for which parts of the process, how many coat of primer, base, and clear to do, timing to wait in between coats, how long to let the car dry before driving etc.
I don't need a $1000 spray gun. I'm not going to cheap out on a $20 but around $200 is my budget for the gun. Paint quality I want the best if anyone can suggest good ones.
So if someone could make me a shopping list of required materials it will be greatly appreciated. I am going to be doing this in a sealed garage that I will clean as well as I can prior to the job.
I'm sure I have other questions but I can't remember right now!
I swapped an ITR into the Del Sol last week with basically no experience working on cars besides changing a flat and installing speakers. When brought to the shop to get exhaust cut/welded to fit the mechanic complimented my work and said it was one of the cleanest swaps he had seen a customer do on their own. This gives me confidence in this next project of painting, and YES I know it is completely different, but I am going to try my hardest and practice painting with the gun before hand.
Please no flaming, and thanks for taking a look!!!!!
I am curious as to what specifications of a spray gun I am looking for, information on what type of compressor I need, and much more.
I need to know what PSI to spray at, how many coats, etc.
I basically need a full tutorial I would say. I need to know what grit to sand at and for which parts of the process, how many coat of primer, base, and clear to do, timing to wait in between coats, how long to let the car dry before driving etc.
I don't need a $1000 spray gun. I'm not going to cheap out on a $20 but around $200 is my budget for the gun. Paint quality I want the best if anyone can suggest good ones.
So if someone could make me a shopping list of required materials it will be greatly appreciated. I am going to be doing this in a sealed garage that I will clean as well as I can prior to the job.
I'm sure I have other questions but I can't remember right now!
I swapped an ITR into the Del Sol last week with basically no experience working on cars besides changing a flat and installing speakers. When brought to the shop to get exhaust cut/welded to fit the mechanic complimented my work and said it was one of the cleanest swaps he had seen a customer do on their own. This gives me confidence in this next project of painting, and YES I know it is completely different, but I am going to try my hardest and practice painting with the gun before hand.
Please no flaming, and thanks for taking a look!!!!!
Honda-Tech Member
Joined: Apr 2013
Posts: 29
Likes: 0
From: oak harbor, wa
Re: Questions about painting (gun, psi, coats, sanding, etc.)
So.
-Mask the car.
-Remask after every step. With 180 grit sand paper sand the car. It doesnt need to be brought down to bare metal but a good majority needs to come down dont worry about deep sanding scratches that will be covered later on. -Once car is sanded wipe down the car with a damp cloth, after that dries wipe in with wax and grease remover/prepall/pre-paint cleaner. Or rubbing alcohol works well too.
-Do any bodywork that needs to be done, stay away from bondo brand body filler and get the lightweight filler from napa. Dont add too much hardener to it mix it well and spread lighlty and smoothly. Sand diagonally and swith directions like this / \ sand one way for about 15 seconds then switch. This method prevents uneven spots. After bodywork is done wipe down car again like i stated above but dont get water on the filler.
-This time though wipe the car down with a tackcloth.
-Spray the car with sealer let the car dry between coats for 5 to 10 minutes. With sealer you will need the sealer of course, etching reducer and activator. Mix via the direction usually either 2:1:1 or 4:1:1 mix WELL.
-After applying 3 coats let it dry overnight.
-Next day sand the car by hand with 320 grit sand paper just enough to make it smooth. If you go through the sealer in some places its OK. Just try to avoid it.
-Follow all prep steps stated previously including the tackcloth. You will be using tackcloth at all times from her on out.
-Next you will be spraying the car with fast filling primer get the right reducer for the primer along with the activator and mix according to directions.
-Let dry for 10-15 minutes in between coats.
-Coat the car 2-3 times with good thick coats.
-Let it dry overnight.
-The next day spray a guide coat over the whole car with a VERY light dusting itll look like primer with black specks if its done right. Guide coat comes in a rattle can. You only need one can.
-Wet sand the car with a soft block and 600 grit sandpaper until the guidecoat is gone completely the car will be very smooth.
-Afterwards wash the car outside.
-Once dry follow prep procedures.
-Now you are ready for base coat. Mix the basecoat (color) and reducer together. I use slow reducer. Let the car dry 15 minutes between coats. I spray 4 coats of basecoat.
-The first 2 coats lay on somewhat heavy and the last 2 spray lighter coats. Hold the gun 8-10 inches away from the car while spraying basecoat and clear.
-Let the bascoat dry overnight.
-Follow prep procedures.
-The next day Mix the clearcoat reducer and activator (I use slow activator in my clear) according to directions.
-Spray 4-5 coats of clear while letting it dry 30 minutes in between coats.
-Let the car dry for 2 days.
-Wetsand the car with a soft block and 1500 grit sand paper and then re wetsand the car with 2500 grit sand paper. Be careful not to sand through the clearcoat.
-After that use meguiars diamond cut compound with a high speed buffer on LOW SPEED with a coarse wool pad.
-Then wash the pad and use medium cut meguiars compund. Wash again and use meguiars fine cut compund.
-Then use a wool fine polishing pad and buff the car using meguiars swirl remover compound. Wash pad and use meguiars show car glaze.
-DO NOT WAX THE CAR FOR AT LEAST 90 DAYS it traps solvents in the clear and can make your finish look cloudy. So now the list.
1: green scotch masking tape at least 4 rolls
2: all material used in the write up
3: go to home depot and get the 20 gallon dewalt air compressor. It works great for painting a car its what I started out with.
4: get a good water seperator for your air lines they sell them at napa.
5: get the DeVilbiss starting ling paint gun kit. It comes with everything you need for the job paint gun wise use the 1.5mm tip for the base and clear and the tip that comes on the primer gun for the sealer and primer. Base and clear gets shot at 20 psi and sealer and primer get shot at 25-28 psi. Get a pressure regulator for the gun too.
6 get some good clear, paint, primer and sealer dont cut corners and let your paint shop know your budget and they will generally give you the best bag for buck.
-Make sure that the area you are painting the car in is at least 65 degrees or warmer. The warmer the better. I think thats about it. I hope my advice helps this is my first write up. If I missed anything ill add it in another post. Also the paint gun kit goes for around 150 $ and its a great starting kit. You cant go wrong with it just make sure you keep your guns clean clean clean. And you need alot of laquer thinner for cleaning. At least a gallon and a little bit goes quite a ways. This is how I paint my cars and my customers cars and they always turn out like glass and very strong. Other peoples techniques may differ
-Mask the car.
-Remask after every step. With 180 grit sand paper sand the car. It doesnt need to be brought down to bare metal but a good majority needs to come down dont worry about deep sanding scratches that will be covered later on. -Once car is sanded wipe down the car with a damp cloth, after that dries wipe in with wax and grease remover/prepall/pre-paint cleaner. Or rubbing alcohol works well too.
-Do any bodywork that needs to be done, stay away from bondo brand body filler and get the lightweight filler from napa. Dont add too much hardener to it mix it well and spread lighlty and smoothly. Sand diagonally and swith directions like this / \ sand one way for about 15 seconds then switch. This method prevents uneven spots. After bodywork is done wipe down car again like i stated above but dont get water on the filler.
-This time though wipe the car down with a tackcloth.
-Spray the car with sealer let the car dry between coats for 5 to 10 minutes. With sealer you will need the sealer of course, etching reducer and activator. Mix via the direction usually either 2:1:1 or 4:1:1 mix WELL.
-After applying 3 coats let it dry overnight.
-Next day sand the car by hand with 320 grit sand paper just enough to make it smooth. If you go through the sealer in some places its OK. Just try to avoid it.
-Follow all prep steps stated previously including the tackcloth. You will be using tackcloth at all times from her on out.
-Next you will be spraying the car with fast filling primer get the right reducer for the primer along with the activator and mix according to directions.
-Let dry for 10-15 minutes in between coats.
-Coat the car 2-3 times with good thick coats.
-Let it dry overnight.
-The next day spray a guide coat over the whole car with a VERY light dusting itll look like primer with black specks if its done right. Guide coat comes in a rattle can. You only need one can.
-Wet sand the car with a soft block and 600 grit sandpaper until the guidecoat is gone completely the car will be very smooth.
-Afterwards wash the car outside.
-Once dry follow prep procedures.
-Now you are ready for base coat. Mix the basecoat (color) and reducer together. I use slow reducer. Let the car dry 15 minutes between coats. I spray 4 coats of basecoat.
-The first 2 coats lay on somewhat heavy and the last 2 spray lighter coats. Hold the gun 8-10 inches away from the car while spraying basecoat and clear.
-Let the bascoat dry overnight.
-Follow prep procedures.
-The next day Mix the clearcoat reducer and activator (I use slow activator in my clear) according to directions.
-Spray 4-5 coats of clear while letting it dry 30 minutes in between coats.
-Let the car dry for 2 days.
-Wetsand the car with a soft block and 1500 grit sand paper and then re wetsand the car with 2500 grit sand paper. Be careful not to sand through the clearcoat.
-After that use meguiars diamond cut compound with a high speed buffer on LOW SPEED with a coarse wool pad.
-Then wash the pad and use medium cut meguiars compund. Wash again and use meguiars fine cut compund.
-Then use a wool fine polishing pad and buff the car using meguiars swirl remover compound. Wash pad and use meguiars show car glaze.
-DO NOT WAX THE CAR FOR AT LEAST 90 DAYS it traps solvents in the clear and can make your finish look cloudy. So now the list.
1: green scotch masking tape at least 4 rolls
2: all material used in the write up
3: go to home depot and get the 20 gallon dewalt air compressor. It works great for painting a car its what I started out with.
4: get a good water seperator for your air lines they sell them at napa.
5: get the DeVilbiss starting ling paint gun kit. It comes with everything you need for the job paint gun wise use the 1.5mm tip for the base and clear and the tip that comes on the primer gun for the sealer and primer. Base and clear gets shot at 20 psi and sealer and primer get shot at 25-28 psi. Get a pressure regulator for the gun too.
6 get some good clear, paint, primer and sealer dont cut corners and let your paint shop know your budget and they will generally give you the best bag for buck.
-Make sure that the area you are painting the car in is at least 65 degrees or warmer. The warmer the better. I think thats about it. I hope my advice helps this is my first write up. If I missed anything ill add it in another post. Also the paint gun kit goes for around 150 $ and its a great starting kit. You cant go wrong with it just make sure you keep your guns clean clean clean. And you need alot of laquer thinner for cleaning. At least a gallon and a little bit goes quite a ways. This is how I paint my cars and my customers cars and they always turn out like glass and very strong. Other peoples techniques may differ
Last edited by fandsmachine; May 24, 2013 at 11:53 AM.
Re: Questions about painting (gun, psi, coats, sanding, etc.)
Your post is unreadable as one giant block of text.
So.
-Mask the car.
-Remask after every step. With 180 grit sand paper sand the car. It doesnt need to be brought down to bare metal but a good majority needs to come down dont worry about deep sanding scratches that will be covered later on. -Once car is sanded wipe down the car with a damp cloth, after that dries wipe in with wax and grease remover/prepall/pre-paint cleaner. Or rubbing alcohol works well too.
-Do any bodywork that needs to be done, stay away from bondo brand body filler and get the lightweight filler from napa. Dont add too much hardener to it mix it well and spread lighlty and smoothly. Sand diagonally and swith directions like this / \ sand one way for about 15 seconds then switch. This method prevents uneven spots. After bodywork is done wipe down car again like i stated above but dont get water on the filler.
-This time though wipe the car down with a tackcloth.
-Spray the car with sealer let the car dry between coats for 5 to 10 minutes. With sealer you will need the sealer of course, etching reducer and activator. Mix via the direction usually either 2:1:1 or 4:1:1 mix WELL.
-After applying 3 coats let it dry overnight.
-Next day sand the car by hand with 320 grit sand paper just enough to make it smooth. If you go through the sealer in some places its OK. Just try to avoid it.
-Follow all prep steps stated previously including the tackcloth. You will be using tackcloth at all times from her on out.
-Next you will be spraying the car with fast filling primer get the right reducer for the primer along with the activator and mix according to directions.
-Let dry for 10-15 minutes in between coats.
-Coat the car 2-3 times with good thick coats.
-Let it dry overnight.
-The next day spray a guide coat over the whole car with a VERY light dusting itll look like primer with black specks if its done right. Guide coat comes in a rattle can. You only need one can.
-Wet sand the car with a soft block and 600 grit sandpaper until the guidecoat is gone completely the car will be very smooth.
-Afterwards wash the car outside.
-Once dry follow prep procedures.
-Now you are ready for base coat. Mix the basecoat (color) and reducer together. I use slow reducer. Let the car dry 15 minutes between coats. I spray 4 coats of basecoat.
-The first 2 coats lay on somewhat heavy and the last 2 spray lighter coats. Hold the gun 8-10 inches away from the car while spraying basecoat and clear.
-Let the bascoat dry overnight.
-Follow prep procedures.
-The next day Mix the clearcoat reducer and activator (I use slow activator in my clear) according to directions.
-Spray 4-5 coats of clear while letting it dry 30 minutes in between coats.
-Let the car dry for 2 days.
-Wetsand the car with a soft block and 1500 grit sand paper and then re wetsand the car with 2500 grit sand paper. Be careful not to sand through the clearcoat.
-After that use meguiars diamond cut compound with a high speed buffer on LOW SPEED with a coarse wool pad.
-Then wash the pad and use medium cut meguiars compund. Wash again and use meguiars fine cut compund.
-Then use a wool fine polishing pad and buff the car using meguiars swirl remover compound. Wash pad and use meguiars show car glaze.
-DO NOT WAX THE CAR FOR AT LEAST 90 DAYS it traps solvents in the clear and can make your finish look cloudy. So now the list.
1: green scotch masking tape at least 4 rolls
2: all material used in the write up
3: go to home depot and get the 20 gallon dewalt air compressor. It works great for painting a car its what I started out with.
4: get a good water seperator for your air lines they sell them at napa.
5: get the DeVilbiss starting ling paint gun kit. It comes with everything you need for the job paint gun wise use the 1.5mm tip for the base and clear and the tip that comes on the primer gun for the sealer and primer. Base and clear gets shot at 20 psi and sealer and primer get shot at 25-28 psi. Get a pressure regulator for the gun too.
6 get some good clear, paint, primer and sealer dont cut corners and let your paint shop know your budget and they will generally give you the best bag for buck.
-Make sure that the area you are painting the car in is at least 65 degrees or warmer. The warmer the better. I think thats about it. I hope my advice helps this is my first write up. If I missed anything ill add it in another post. Also the paint gun kit goes for around 150 $ and its a great starting kit. You cant go wrong with it just make sure you keep your guns clean clean clean. And you need alot of laquer thinner for cleaning. At least a gallon and a little bit goes quite a ways. This is how I paint my cars and my customers cars and they always turn out like glass and very strong. Other peoples techniques may differ.
-Mask the car.
-Remask after every step. With 180 grit sand paper sand the car. It doesnt need to be brought down to bare metal but a good majority needs to come down dont worry about deep sanding scratches that will be covered later on. -Once car is sanded wipe down the car with a damp cloth, after that dries wipe in with wax and grease remover/prepall/pre-paint cleaner. Or rubbing alcohol works well too.
-Do any bodywork that needs to be done, stay away from bondo brand body filler and get the lightweight filler from napa. Dont add too much hardener to it mix it well and spread lighlty and smoothly. Sand diagonally and swith directions like this / \ sand one way for about 15 seconds then switch. This method prevents uneven spots. After bodywork is done wipe down car again like i stated above but dont get water on the filler.
-This time though wipe the car down with a tackcloth.
-Spray the car with sealer let the car dry between coats for 5 to 10 minutes. With sealer you will need the sealer of course, etching reducer and activator. Mix via the direction usually either 2:1:1 or 4:1:1 mix WELL.
-After applying 3 coats let it dry overnight.
-Next day sand the car by hand with 320 grit sand paper just enough to make it smooth. If you go through the sealer in some places its OK. Just try to avoid it.
-Follow all prep steps stated previously including the tackcloth. You will be using tackcloth at all times from her on out.
-Next you will be spraying the car with fast filling primer get the right reducer for the primer along with the activator and mix according to directions.
-Let dry for 10-15 minutes in between coats.
-Coat the car 2-3 times with good thick coats.
-Let it dry overnight.
-The next day spray a guide coat over the whole car with a VERY light dusting itll look like primer with black specks if its done right. Guide coat comes in a rattle can. You only need one can.
-Wet sand the car with a soft block and 600 grit sandpaper until the guidecoat is gone completely the car will be very smooth.
-Afterwards wash the car outside.
-Once dry follow prep procedures.
-Now you are ready for base coat. Mix the basecoat (color) and reducer together. I use slow reducer. Let the car dry 15 minutes between coats. I spray 4 coats of basecoat.
-The first 2 coats lay on somewhat heavy and the last 2 spray lighter coats. Hold the gun 8-10 inches away from the car while spraying basecoat and clear.
-Let the bascoat dry overnight.
-Follow prep procedures.
-The next day Mix the clearcoat reducer and activator (I use slow activator in my clear) according to directions.
-Spray 4-5 coats of clear while letting it dry 30 minutes in between coats.
-Let the car dry for 2 days.
-Wetsand the car with a soft block and 1500 grit sand paper and then re wetsand the car with 2500 grit sand paper. Be careful not to sand through the clearcoat.
-After that use meguiars diamond cut compound with a high speed buffer on LOW SPEED with a coarse wool pad.
-Then wash the pad and use medium cut meguiars compund. Wash again and use meguiars fine cut compund.
-Then use a wool fine polishing pad and buff the car using meguiars swirl remover compound. Wash pad and use meguiars show car glaze.
-DO NOT WAX THE CAR FOR AT LEAST 90 DAYS it traps solvents in the clear and can make your finish look cloudy. So now the list.
1: green scotch masking tape at least 4 rolls
2: all material used in the write up
3: go to home depot and get the 20 gallon dewalt air compressor. It works great for painting a car its what I started out with.
4: get a good water seperator for your air lines they sell them at napa.
5: get the DeVilbiss starting ling paint gun kit. It comes with everything you need for the job paint gun wise use the 1.5mm tip for the base and clear and the tip that comes on the primer gun for the sealer and primer. Base and clear gets shot at 20 psi and sealer and primer get shot at 25-28 psi. Get a pressure regulator for the gun too.
6 get some good clear, paint, primer and sealer dont cut corners and let your paint shop know your budget and they will generally give you the best bag for buck.
-Make sure that the area you are painting the car in is at least 65 degrees or warmer. The warmer the better. I think thats about it. I hope my advice helps this is my first write up. If I missed anything ill add it in another post. Also the paint gun kit goes for around 150 $ and its a great starting kit. You cant go wrong with it just make sure you keep your guns clean clean clean. And you need alot of laquer thinner for cleaning. At least a gallon and a little bit goes quite a ways. This is how I paint my cars and my customers cars and they always turn out like glass and very strong. Other peoples techniques may differ.
Thread Starter
Honda-Tech Member
Joined: Feb 2013
Posts: 59
Likes: 0
From: Central, NJ
Re: Questions about painting (gun, psi, coats, sanding, etc.)
damn thanks a lot man that really helps.
Do I need 2 separate guns for priming and painting? The kit I saw came with 2 guns, one for each. Do they differ in anyway or are they the same gun? Thanks again!!!
Do I need 2 separate guns for priming and painting? The kit I saw came with 2 guns, one for each. Do they differ in anyway or are they the same gun? Thanks again!!!
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Thread Starter
Honda-Tech Member
Joined: Feb 2013
Posts: 59
Likes: 0
From: Central, NJ
Re: Questions about painting (gun, psi, coats, sanding, etc.)
OHHH and I will be getting the body work done by a shop prior to the painting so what should I do to the fixed areas?
I am referring to the infamous honda cancer on the quarter panels of my del sol. I am assuming it will be welded and have a light layer of bondo on it. I feel like I shouldnt sand the bond because the body mechanic would have already sanded it down to the right size/shape of the body. Do I just primer over it or what? Thanks!
and do you have a recommended brand for paint/primer/sealer? I will most likely be ordering the majority of my materials online so I would like to order the highest quality paint I can.
how much paint, primer, sealer and clearcoat will i need for the whole car?
sorry for double post!
I am referring to the infamous honda cancer on the quarter panels of my del sol. I am assuming it will be welded and have a light layer of bondo on it. I feel like I shouldnt sand the bond because the body mechanic would have already sanded it down to the right size/shape of the body. Do I just primer over it or what? Thanks!
and do you have a recommended brand for paint/primer/sealer? I will most likely be ordering the majority of my materials online so I would like to order the highest quality paint I can.
how much paint, primer, sealer and clearcoat will i need for the whole car?
sorry for double post!
Honda-Tech Member
Joined: Apr 2013
Posts: 29
Likes: 0
From: oak harbor, wa
Re: Questions about painting (gun, psi, coats, sanding, etc.)
You will lay sealer and then primer over the filler. I would get transtar kwik seal sealer and transtar 2k ez sand primer. I order my stuff from autobodytoolmart.com order the clear from southernpolyurethanes.com and get their universal clear. Its fantastic. The paint I use is either matrix system or napa's tecbase BASECOAT! DONT USE A SINGLE STAGE PAINT!
Quantities: paint you need 3 quarts, sealer, primer, reducers, thinner and clearcoat you get a full gallon.
Hardeners and activators get quarts.
You never use the same gun for paint that you use for primer/sealer and the primer guns have a bigger tip. So yes you need to get 2 guns so yeah the devilbiss kit I mentioned.
No problem helping out man id rather help then see someone make a costly mistake!
Quantities: paint you need 3 quarts, sealer, primer, reducers, thinner and clearcoat you get a full gallon.
Hardeners and activators get quarts.
You never use the same gun for paint that you use for primer/sealer and the primer guns have a bigger tip. So yes you need to get 2 guns so yeah the devilbiss kit I mentioned.
No problem helping out man id rather help then see someone make a costly mistake!
Honda-Tech Member
Joined: Dec 2012
Posts: 89
Likes: 0
From: Between the Lines
Re: Questions about painting (gun, psi, coats, sanding, etc.)
LMAO I read a P n quit.. Sound right so far.. You can use blak spray paint lightly on the body work before you sand it as a guide coat to show un even areas. Always block sand
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