I have a question about my rotors and their wear. I noticed on one side (the passenger side), the rotor had no outer lip and the brake pad had plenty of material left on it. But on the driver side, there is a considerable outer lip and the brake pad is almost to the bone.


What does this mean, do I need new calipers on the driver side or what? Cause that makes no sense. There are currently no real problems with the brakes; no vibrations, noticable brake fade etc. Just a little sqealling on the side that is worn.


By outer lip I mean this. Mine is worse. I heard someone said I needed new rotors asap but I don't know, do I? The fact that only one is doing this is odd, and the pad wear is odd as well,





I really wanna know is 1.) Is that's normal and 2.) if I need new rotors in general.

Thanks.

 

Brake system is diagonally split. DR/PF and PR/DF. Not front rear. Verify there are no leaks or swollen hoses, verify the brakes have been bled correctly. Driver rear, Pass front, Pass rear, Driver Front. Check the rear brake wear to verify if there is a problem with the split system.

 

I did purge the air last Fall and before then the brakes were very soft and spongy, I could press the pedal to the floor and it wouldn't stop. After they were purged the brakes worked 100x better.

When I looked last time it didn't seem like anything was wrong with the hoses or with the system. If there was a problem don't you think I would feel it in the brakes? The abnormal wear possibly occured because the system wasn't bled? I did drive it for a while with air in the system.

 

Have you checked to see if the guide pins might be binding in the caliper bracket?

 

It maybe binding. How do I fix it? There is this guide I found,

http://www.phoenixfriction.com/t-dis...-patterns.aspx


I think the problem is:

Wear Pattern: Only one of the two pads worn down
Indication: Caliper or Caliper piston hanging up; caliper slide not functioning correctly


What uh do you think I should do to fix this?

 

Do i need new calipers or what? I thought about maybe slamming on the brakes if that would help.

 

http://www.team-integra.net/forum/18...build-how.html

 

Would it be best to inspect the gasket first before buying the kit, or do you know for a fact that I need to rebuild my calipers?

 

It is easy to tell if the pins are stuck. The caliper won't slide. If that is the case (happened to me) clean the pins and caliper bracket and re-grease.

 

But won't my brakes work abnormally if a pin is stuck or a caliper is not working properly? My brakes are working fine; no vibrations and they have great stopping power.

What exactly is a pin? I think I know what a piston is. This?

 

You are buying Brembo rotors and you don't know what a brake caliper pin is?

What the Caliper slides on, the pins ride on the mounting bracket..

 

OKay, I know what they are now.

Now if my brakes really were abnormally wearing down, wouldn't there be tell tale symptoms of this during operation?

 

lol the only thing i can tell you is bolt everything back up take it to a empty street and press on the brake pedal hard let go of the steering wheel and see if it pulls to one side. and don't use BLACK GREASE!!!!!! use lube!!!! WARNING!!! DON'T USE BLACK GREASE. use use lithium grease the clear white kind

 

you could always post a picture of your brakes...you love posting pictures im surprised you haven't yet

 

If your brakes are working fine why are you asking questions about uneven wear? That's not normal nor would I classify it as them working fine. Sure your car may stop fine, however the action of the calipers is obviously not!

Not here isn't always a tell tale sign that the caliper is stuck. Other than one pad wearing down faster than the other. Then once the one pad wears out, you could feel/hear a difference in the braking. That is why it's a good practice to have a biannual/anual inspection. That way these sort of things can be caught before they do more damage.

 

The pins on my left rear caliper were stuck tight and had to be freed up in a vice. The first indication I had was when I heard a noise coming from the wheel. It was the wear indicator on the pads rubbing the rotor.

 

To answer your question about being able to tell if this is happening, first, a complete summary of common possible causes:

1. Caliper piston is not retracting in the bore due to seals/grit/corrosion;
2. Caliper is not sliding on the pins properly;
3. Pads are not backing off the rotor due to worn/corroded/dirty clips;
4. Old brake hose is swollen inside, not allowing fluid back in the direction of the master cylinder, causing the brakes to drag; and
5. Problem with brake proportioning

Any of the above symptoms can happen to only one wheel, and can happen subtly enough that you may not notice until you inspect, causing the pads to constantly be wearing a bit (esp. #2 and 3).

In the future: pull your wheels and check your brakes regularly, and at the least, see if any of your wheels are hotter than others after stopping.

For now: no it's not normal, and yes, you should deal with it.

99% your problem will be solved by dealing with the first 4 points.

 

Thanks a lot everyone. Now I have another question. If my calipers are operating fine (and I think they are) how will I know if I need new rotors? One of the rotors looks very worn, but how will I know if I absolutely need to change it? I would like to forestall the brake job soon as I can and if a cheap set a brake pads would hold it over for 20 plus thousand miles i'm all for it.

 

Mic the rotors, if they are within service limit you are OK. But the proper way would to have them checked for run-out, which would require a micrometer.
Like so...

 

So mic them with something like this? I don't have one of these.

 

hahahaha buy one or fork the money over to get it done at a tire/repair shop

 

I think you mean to say dial indicator. It has a magnetic base and a needle style assembly that moves in and outwards.

 

Couple points:

1. While the calipers may be working fine, did you trouble shoot the other points mentioned? These may all affect brake function, and should be checked/serviced before you put any money into your system.
2. It's hard to say what you mean by 'worn' - a dial gauge or micrometer will only tell you if the thickness of the rotor is within spec. - other indicators of doneness such as discolouration (overheating), grooving, rust, uneven wear, all have nothing to do with uniform spec thickness and can indicate that it's time to change the rotors.

I wouldn't recommend partially replacing brake components on a system that has a known problem and expecting to get 20k miles out of it, but once you've checked/serviced all the points mentioned in previous posts, you could get a cheap pair of pads and check to see if the problem continues after some test miles before replacing everything. Brakes is one thing that I wouldn't cheap out on....

 

Correct. Was thinking micrometer from previous sentence. PEBKAC

 

Okay guys I just got the caliper rebuild kit in the mail for my wagon. They're 95' V6 rebuilt kits,





I am going to be using this guide:

http://www.cb7tuner.com/vbb/showthread.php?p=3062559




I still need somebody to check my rotors, I can't seem to find anyone who has the right tools... I haven't been looking hard enough probably. I really need to change the pads cause that one is in baaad condition, I need to know if the rotors should be changed now. I know that is a pain in the *** with these old Honda's cause Honda made them that way... What is the easiest way to change rotors, does anyone know? Also I was planning on replacing the wheel bearings but since they are working fine I don't think I am going to do it anymore. They are cheap Enkidu bearings anyways....

Where is a good guide for easily and painlessly replacing the bearings/rotors? Maybe I'll just have a shop do it and say screw it.