Okay guys I really need help on this one..
I have a problem with my 89 civic si hatch.
For those who don't know its a mpfi.
I have the whole d16a6 set up. (Dizzy Mani headers. Full 16a6 block and si tranny. But I have a D15b2 head which is DPFI and my car is MPFI)
It works fine well did. Now it doesn't turn on it cranks and cranks and cranks. I thought it was my main relay as at first I heard the relay click a few times inside.
Then I thought its maybe my fuel rail as its after market so I decided it was my fuel rai. Or something with fuel. So i changed my fuel filter (new) nothing changed. I went and got some fuel injectors from a eg sedan (d15) and nothing changed I even cleaned the injectors inside as recommended thinking there clogged. And fuel rail also.
Again nohing changed.
So I was told to check with a small bulb see if the injectors get power. And they barely get it but they do.
And then I was told its my dizzy.
I happen to have a DPFI dizzy but.... si had different plugs and a MPFI. So I can't use the dizzy.

QUESTION IS DOES ANYONE KNOW HOW TO CONVERT THE DIZZY PLUGS ? OR HOW TO SWAP THE INTERNALS IN THE DIZZY ??


I also did a CEL code check. And I kept getting these numbers .
6/8/12/13/14/15/17/20/25
I checked some in HT FAQs and one was the temperature coolant something.. I forgot.
But any idea of what's going on would be great please!!!

 

sounds like a whole bunch of **** is goin on lol, and 1 the a6 and b2 head are exactly the same only diff is the cam, I have a built b2 head that's going in my a6. but on other hand, u gotta start with all those codes and get them takin care of.

 

I know I've heard there same heads just a6 better cam. and I didn't no it had so many codes. the 12/13/14/15 I think are me miss counting but I'm sure I have 6/8/17/20/25 and it is a lot of **** I just bought this ef. I want to swap it but have no cash...


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I know I've heard there same heads just a6 better cam. and I didn't no it had so many codes. the 12/13/14/15 I think are me miss counting but I'm sure I have 6/8/17/20/25 and it is a lot of **** I just bought this ef. I want to swap it but have no cash...


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6=coolant temp sensor/ below dizzy
8=tdc position
12=egr?? what ecu are u using? my d16a6 doesn't have a egr!
13=atmospheric pressure sensor/ passenger side kick panel, lil black sensor
14=electronic air control or iacv/ is on mani.
15=ignition output signal
17=vehicle speed sensor
20=electric load
25=??? cuz d16a6 doesn't have a code 25

so my question is what ecu are u using first off? second u need a obd0 mpfi dizzy the dpfi wont work even changing internals, because its the internals that are bad obviously.

 

I have a pm6 ecu


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I maybe miss counted on some.that darn red light blinks fast. but like I said I'm sure its 6-8-17-20


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I bought my car with the mpfi dizzy I bought one at a junk yard thinking its the same... turns out mpfi and dpfi aren't at all even if obd0


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I bought a dpfi dizzy thinking it was same as mpfi since both are obd0 but there not. my ecu is pm6 and I do have the stock si dizzy mpfi


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use ur stock si dizzy till ur sure its bad, address the codes ur sure u have with what I have givin u, make sure all plugs are connected, just go over everything that has been covered and please double check all ur codes for me

 

So you're saying it used to run n drive or did u change anything before this started?

 

whatever he did, he tripped a lot of codes

 

the one thing I did change was a alarm it had. a cheap one. I removed it but before then the car had a slight issue starting either way


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Did u make sure they didn't splice any important power wires? I know the first time I tried to pull an alarm out it made a ground get pulled out and I couldn't figure out for the longest time what was up and it was just that stupid ground, which makes sense why none of your electronic aren't working.

 

everything electronic is working in my car. limit control lights up cluster clock. ash tray never had power. front rear lights work. even turn signals


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okay so I put my dizzy back on. mpfi dizzy.
I attached a screw driver to the inside of the spark plugs and played it on my radiator support. I saw a spark one out about 3 times. so that means my dizzy is good isn't it? I only had enough power to try it for about 5 minutes until my battery died completely after so many cranks..
I also tried putting my had in from of my manifold to see if it sucked air at least it did suck air. and at 1 point only once did it make a different where it sounded like the car would crank up and start...


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Or it means that your ground isn't good enough to properly ground the spark system...which I believe is mostly achieved by it's physical mount to the engine?? I agree with what someone has already said...check your wires, but I think focus on grounds...especially around wherever you have worked.

Check:

1) Primary ground connections at battery Neg- post, then the chassis ground and the engine ground connections.
2) Check the ground connections at the thermostat housing.
3) Especially check the ground connection behind the driver's foot-side plastic kick panel...since you were under that side disconnecting the alarm, right?
4) When I first read your post, I was thinking..."man, it sounds like the whole engine is unplugged. I would check the engine wire harness plug connection to the chassis harness." So you may as well check that too. It is probably the biggest plug under the hood (probably 10-15 wires), and it is probably located near the fuse box under the hood.
5) Since I mention fuse box, go ahead and check the large fuses in the fusebox under the hood. If you sparked the wrong wire somewhere, it might have popped a fuse.
6) And of course, you may as well check your "removal" under the dash....make sure the normal ignition switch wires are properly reconnected.

 

okay #3 there was a small black wire connected to the sub frame of the car. you know the metal railing bar under the dash. for crashes. I unscrewed it . I'm guessing its a ground. as for ignition when I removed the alarm I cut 1 wire to unite them as they were cut before for the alarm maybe a kill switch I attached them again with a nut/bolt meanwhile I get a whole new ignition harness from another car. I try starting from engine bay. start + wire + positive on battery.


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okay #3 there was a small black wire connected to the sub frame of the car. you know the metal railing bar under the dash. for crashes. I unscrewed it . I'm guessing its a ground. as for ignition when I removed the alarm I cut 1 wire to unite them as they were cut before for the alarm maybe a kill switch I attached them again with a nut/bolt meanwhile I get a whole new ignition harness from another car. I try starting from engine bay. start + wire + positive on battery.


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