1990 civic hatch trouble starting
I have 1990 civic hatch It cranks but won't start what can be some problems It has new batteries and it has fuel pressure I check it with the fuel filter what else can I check

To the original poster, what were the last "conditions" when the car stopped working? ie, driving down the road, parked for 2 years, just wont start one day, or maybe you just did some routine maintenance that might be a clue?
Just some tips for "crank but no start":
#1 MOST IMPORTANT!!: Do you have any check engine codes???? If not, try to crank it for a solid 30 seconds and see if a check engine code shows up. (but its usually safe to ignore the "injector code" if you are turning over a no-start engine).
Then, after checking out any codes, consider the following......
Fuel pumping does not mean the pump is strong enough to start and idle..sometimes they prime but don't have constant power or consistent flow.
Same with spark: having a spark from screwdriver to chassis doesn't mean it is strong spark. look for a solid blue color of the arc...not yellow/red. causes: dizzy, rotor, cap, or sparkplug wires.
What do your spark plugs look like?
Major vacuum leak, especially around the EGR (personal experience/headache)
Need proper compression: If ALLL else fails, get a compression test.
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In the original post, he said it "cranks but wont start" so it's not the clutch safety switch. That's the first thing that came to my mind also. 
To the original poster, what were the last "conditions" when the car stopped working? ie, driving down the road, parked for 2 years, just wont start one day, or maybe you just did some routine maintenance that might be a clue?
Just some tips for "crank but no start":
#1 MOST IMPORTANT!!: Do you have any check engine codes???? If not, try to crank it for a solid 30 seconds and see if a check engine code shows up. (but its usually safe to ignore the "injector code" if you are turning over a no-start engine).
Then, after checking out any codes, consider the following......
Fuel pumping does not mean the pump is strong enough to start and idle..sometimes they prime but don't have constant power or consistent flow.
Same with spark: having a spark from screwdriver to chassis doesn't mean it is strong spark. look for a solid blue color of the arc...not yellow/red. causes: dizzy, rotor, cap, or sparkplug wires.
What do your spark plugs look like?
Major vacuum leak, especially around the EGR (personal experience/headache)
Need proper compression: If ALLL else fails, get a compression test.

To the original poster, what were the last "conditions" when the car stopped working? ie, driving down the road, parked for 2 years, just wont start one day, or maybe you just did some routine maintenance that might be a clue?
Just some tips for "crank but no start":
#1 MOST IMPORTANT!!: Do you have any check engine codes???? If not, try to crank it for a solid 30 seconds and see if a check engine code shows up. (but its usually safe to ignore the "injector code" if you are turning over a no-start engine).
Then, after checking out any codes, consider the following......
Fuel pumping does not mean the pump is strong enough to start and idle..sometimes they prime but don't have constant power or consistent flow.
Same with spark: having a spark from screwdriver to chassis doesn't mean it is strong spark. look for a solid blue color of the arc...not yellow/red. causes: dizzy, rotor, cap, or sparkplug wires.
What do your spark plugs look like?
Major vacuum leak, especially around the EGR (personal experience/headache)
Need proper compression: If ALLL else fails, get a compression test.
It was working fine but 2 weeks ago it will start and eventually it will stall and then later it stop running. I have check the fuel pump, main relay, fuses, I check the pressure with fuel filter and tomorrow ill be checking the spark
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jdm_rb20
In the original post, he said it "cranks but wont start" so it's not the clutch safety switch. That's the first thing that came to my mind also.
To the original poster, what were the last "conditions" when the car stopped working? ie, driving down the road, parked for 2 years, just wont start one day, or maybe you just did some routine maintenance that might be a clue?
Just some tips for "crank but no start":
#1 MOST IMPORTANT!!: Do you have any check engine codes???? If not, try to crank it for a solid 30 seconds and see if a check engine code shows up. (but its usually safe to ignore the "injector code" if you are turning over a no-start engine).
Then, after checking out any codes, consider the following......
Fuel pumping does not mean the pump is strong enough to start and idle..sometimes they prime but don't have constant power or consistent flow.
Same with spark: having a spark from screwdriver to chassis doesn't mean it is strong spark. look for a solid blue color of the arc...not yellow/red. causes: dizzy, rotor, cap, or sparkplug wires.
What do your spark plugs look like?
Major vacuum leak, especially around the EGR (personal experience/headache)
Need proper compression: If ALLL else fails, get a compression test.
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
--------------------
Check your fuel pressure with a fuel pressure gauge or sometimes you try the following:
--increase fuel pressure by physically pinching the fuel RETURN line...meanwhile have someone else try to start it and keep it idling. Don't rule out fuel just because it squirts, even if it is strong. :0
Quote:
Originally Posted by jdm_rb20
In the original post, he said it "cranks but wont start" so it's not the clutch safety switch. That's the first thing that came to my mind also.
To the original poster, what were the last "conditions" when the car stopped working? ie, driving down the road, parked for 2 years, just wont start one day, or maybe you just did some routine maintenance that might be a clue?
Just some tips for "crank but no start":
#1 MOST IMPORTANT!!: Do you have any check engine codes???? If not, try to crank it for a solid 30 seconds and see if a check engine code shows up. (but its usually safe to ignore the "injector code" if you are turning over a no-start engine).
Then, after checking out any codes, consider the following......
Fuel pumping does not mean the pump is strong enough to start and idle..sometimes they prime but don't have constant power or consistent flow.
Same with spark: having a spark from screwdriver to chassis doesn't mean it is strong spark. look for a solid blue color of the arc...not yellow/red. causes: dizzy, rotor, cap, or sparkplug wires.
What do your spark plugs look like?
Major vacuum leak, especially around the EGR (personal experience/headache)
Need proper compression: If ALLL else fails, get a compression test.
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Check your fuel pressure with a fuel pressure gauge or sometimes you try the following:
--increase fuel pressure by physically pinching the fuel RETURN line...meanwhile have someone else try to start it and keep it idling. Don't rule out fuel just because it squirts, even if it is strong. :0
---------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Quote:
Originally Posted by jdm_rb20
In the original post, he said it "cranks but wont start" so it's not the clutch safety switch. That's the first thing that came to my mind also.
To the original poster, what were the last "conditions" when the car stopped working? ie, driving down the road, parked for 2 years, just wont start one day, or maybe you just did some routine maintenance that might be a clue?
Just some tips for "crank but no start":
#1 MOST IMPORTANT!!: Do you have any check engine codes???? If not, try to crank it for a solid 30 seconds and see if a check engine code shows up. (but its usually safe to ignore the "injector code" if you are turning over a no-start engine).
Then, after checking out any codes, consider the following......
Fuel pumping does not mean the pump is strong enough to start and idle..sometimes they prime but don't have constant power or consistent flow.
Same with spark: having a spark from screwdriver to chassis doesn't mean it is strong spark. look for a solid blue color of the arc...not yellow/red. causes: dizzy, rotor, cap, or sparkplug wires.
What do your spark plugs look like?
Major vacuum leak, especially around the EGR (personal experience/headache)
Need proper compression: If ALLL else fails, get a compression test.
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
--------------------
Check your fuel pressure with a fuel pressure gauge or sometimes you try the following:
--increase fuel pressure by physically pinching the fuel RETURN line...meanwhile have someone else try to start it and keep it idling. Don't rule out fuel just because it squirts, even if it is strong. :0
Quote:
Originally Posted by jdm_rb20
In the original post, he said it "cranks but wont start" so it's not the clutch safety switch. That's the first thing that came to my mind also.
To the original poster, what were the last "conditions" when the car stopped working? ie, driving down the road, parked for 2 years, just wont start one day, or maybe you just did some routine maintenance that might be a clue?
Just some tips for "crank but no start":
#1 MOST IMPORTANT!!: Do you have any check engine codes???? If not, try to crank it for a solid 30 seconds and see if a check engine code shows up. (but its usually safe to ignore the "injector code" if you are turning over a no-start engine).
Then, after checking out any codes, consider the following......
Fuel pumping does not mean the pump is strong enough to start and idle..sometimes they prime but don't have constant power or consistent flow.
Same with spark: having a spark from screwdriver to chassis doesn't mean it is strong spark. look for a solid blue color of the arc...not yellow/red. causes: dizzy, rotor, cap, or sparkplug wires.
What do your spark plugs look like?
Major vacuum leak, especially around the EGR (personal experience/headache)
Need proper compression: If ALLL else fails, get a compression test.
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
--------------------
Check your fuel pressure with a fuel pressure gauge or sometimes you try the following:
--increase fuel pressure by physically pinching the fuel RETURN line...meanwhile have someone else try to start it and keep it idling. Don't rule out fuel just because it squirts, even if it is strong. :0
Okay I have check the spark and their no spark where do I go from their???
what safety switch?? its obd0 they didn't have a safety switch till 92 I believe. because every civic iv been and worked on 88-91 has not had a safety switch no matter what model it was. and I see a lot of civics.
"OBD" doesn't care if you have a safety switch or not.
OBD deals with the sensors on the engine that relate to emissions... nothing to do with safety switches.
This year of Civic/CRX do have a switch that contact the top of the pedal under the dash.
It is common for a small plastic stopper to break off and then the switch does not actuate.
There are several fixes for this including buying a new stopper or even just JBWelding a penny over the hole.
OBD deals with the sensors on the engine that relate to emissions... nothing to do with safety switches.
This year of Civic/CRX do have a switch that contact the top of the pedal under the dash.
It is common for a small plastic stopper to break off and then the switch does not actuate.
There are several fixes for this including buying a new stopper or even just JBWelding a penny over the hole.
what im saying is iv been in and worked on every trim and model and have not seen 1 safety switch, my pedals no are from a 90 crx and it doesn't have a safety switch.
Uploaded with ImageShack.usok I may be wrong but just sayin out of all the civics iv driven and worked on not one has had a safety switch lol but if ur not getting spark, its problem with dizzy or dizzy wiring, or as stated the main relay, take it out and reflow it, meaning make sure all solder points are good and solid and no tiny cracks. it takes the tiniest crack to mess things up
Well, you are partially right.
88 for sure did NOT have the switch.
90 and 91 for sure have it.
89 supposedly has it, but a few people claim they don't. (I haven't seen 89 to know one way or the other.)
88 for sure did NOT have the switch.
90 and 91 for sure have it.
89 supposedly has it, but a few people claim they don't. (I haven't seen 89 to know one way or the other.)
I have a 89 and so did a friend in az and his was 5spd stock and no safety switch, iv seen a few stock 90 hatchs with none either but idk lol. I do admit I was like u said partially wrong, I apologize. but op seems to have dizzy issues, maybe try swapping out for known good dizzy and try it.
but we KNOW it's not a clutch safety switch issue:
I would still like to know if he has any ECU codes. If he has no spark, I would definitely want to see if an ECU code will pinpoint the problem for me. Or also, does the ECU have power?
Theoretically, I am trying to think of a problem that can start slowly as he described.....corroded or loose grounds can prevent electrical equipment from functioning properly. As they get more corroded/loose, the problem will get consistantly worse.
Don't spend money throwing parts at the problem until you properly troubleshoot to find the cause.
I was sayi if he knows someone with a workin dizzy try it, not go out an buy one without knowin first. an yes I was wonderin that bout the ecu aswell
Uploaded with ImageShack.usok I may be wrong but just sayin out of all the civics iv driven and worked on not one has had a safety switch lol but if ur not getting spark, its problem with dizzy or dizzy wiring, or as stated the main relay, take it out and reflow it, meaning make sure all solder points are good and solid and no tiny cracks. it takes the tiniest crack to mess things up
I found a lot of people just wired it on all the time seen done in may car iv pulled parts off in junk yards and yes what he said on checking it...
Have you tried switching out main relay?
also check for good connection/no green inside cables on battery to frame ground and frame to tranny and valve cover to radiatior support and thermostat housing
also check for good connection/no green inside cables on battery to frame ground and frame to tranny and valve cover to radiatior support and thermostat housing
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