Alrighty guys I got an H23A block and a H22A head so essentially it's a full blue top motor in a 92 prelude S. now my timing between the cams and crank is dead on. Cams lined up perfect, dot on crank gear and oil pump are spot on and flywheel plus mark is right in between the V. So here's the problem when I start the car and check the timing it reads ~18 degrees BTDC with the distributor all the way advanced (best way it runs). My question is why is the timing so retarted if everything is spot on?. When i retard the dizzy it runs worse, when I'm driving it it feels like its loading up until the car gets to operating temp in which it runs quite a bit smoother but timing doesn't change. Only mods on this motor is a CAI, header, and a can on the end. It has an external coil if that makes a difference and its all obd1 on a p13 ecu. Any help much appreciated!

 

Did you replace the pistons and rings from the H23a1 to regular H22a pistons and rings? and water pump?
Did you remove the oil plug that is in between the head and block?

If not then you have lower compression due to the H23a1 pistons are responsible for the lower compression.

 

It's a vtec block... Both head and block are from Japan hence why i put the codes to what they are. Vtec engages loud and prominent. I shouldn't have to had to replace the piston rings And pistons and take an oil squirter out due to it being a vtec block

 

Ok you were not clear at all, so that confused the hell out of me with your first post.

This is what you stated: You should have clarified that you have the Bluetop H23a, you made it read as if you had a Blue top head only and an H23a bottom(there are two bottom end JDM H23a's) One is the vtec version while the other is the non vtec version.

I own an H23a(JDM) non vtec motor so I was still correct in my statement to you, but you did not specify that you had a complete H23avtec motor.

Be more specific next time.

In regards to your issue, it sounds like timing, but you did state that everything lines up.
But I would recheck timing again.

 

Just to check, are you checking your timing with the service connectors jumped? Any CEL codes coming up? Decked block, adjustable cam gears, anything non-oem on the engine?

 

I don't have the service connector jumped because an obd1 h22 doesn't have the ability to change timing on ecu only the obd2 h22/23 you have to jump the service connector so the ecu can't correct for moving the distributor. No cel codes. Just an srs light due to steering wheel. Block decked, no cam gears like I said other than a CAI, header and can on the end the motor is completely stock. Today I changed the spark plugs, was running the NGK v powers and they seemed to hot for the motor so I just got the NGK copper or whatever the ones in the grey box haha and gapped them to .32 and the motor runs 10x better just a little stumbly and hesitant when the motor is cold.

 

Yeah the obd 1 still needs the connector jumped, it allows the ecu to set timing static at 16 degrees instead of adjusting all the time. That may be part of your issue for sure.

 

Oh ok awesome let me mess with it and ill let you know