I have an integra that has a b18c swap with 12.5:1 compression. I ordered hondata and got a basemap from Phearable along with it that was made according to my mods. I got everything hooked up after rebuilding it and used the basemap to break in the rings. I was getting up to 5k rpms and engine braking back down to 2.5k multiple times and the highest the temp ever got was 204* and cooled off on it's own, no problem. I drove it around for 2 days doing break-ins here and there with no issues. (The A/F is 10.x on idle with this basemap)

After I got them broken in, I had someone street tune it. He adjusted the TPS to 0 (it was reading 6 at idle) and did some adjustments with the idle. We installed the wideband and he started adjusting the fuel map. We drove about 10 miles (normal driving) and all of a sudden the temp was 220* I changed the thermostat and cap, bled the coolant, and the water pump is new. Tried to drive it after that and didn't even make it 2 miles before it got up to 207* both hoses are hot and the fan's working.

The A/F is reading 16-17 on his map so I thought maybe it's getting hot because he has it lean. I switched back to the Phearable map and now it wont even idle without some throttle, I held it at 1000 rpms until it got to operating temp, then it kept climbing and got to 202* and i shut it off.

I really have no idea where to go from here, I've spent hours researching and cant figure out what else to do. I've tried restoring everything to the way it was before he tuned it and idk where I'm going wrong or what could have happened. Just trying to get it running alright again so I can go get a dyno tune over with. Any advice?

 

When you say it's 16-17afr, is that when your WOT, cruising, idling or momentarily after you let of the throttle? I assume you told him your no happy with that afr?

Also what state do you live in, do you know what your thermostat is rated at?
What have you done up to this point with oiling?
What is the part# for your Spark Plugs?
Have your modded your pcv system in anyway?
What exhaust system?

FYI, 220F is not overheating!!

 

idk what it is at WOT, all I can get right now is what it is at idle because it's heating up so quickly Im afraid to drive it and couldn't seem to keep my eyes off the temp reading. He's aware that I'm not ok with the A/F but i don't even know when he can come out to fix it and the a/f doesnt seem to change when I mess with the fuel map, I thought i was doing the same thing he did but idk

I'm in Missouri, the thermostat opens at 180* Haven't modded the pcv, not sure what you mean by the oiling but I haven't done any oil cooling mods either if thats what you mean, It has ngk plugs, heat range is 6, I was gonna try switching to 7's until I pulled them, they're totally black. It has Tanabe medallion exhaust and a 4-1 Megan header. The cat is probably bad or close to it but whole heat change happened right after he started tuning.

Do you know what the coolant temp is supposed to be? I keep finding anywhere from 195-225* and if I pull up the stock itr basemap on Hondata it says the overheating temp is 212.

Either way, I just don't understand how we could put load on it and it only got up to 204 but all of a sudden driving normal for 10 mins got it up to 220. The temp still climbs fast even with the heat blasting. idk what else to look at

 

ttt...

 

I haven't had to chance you use Hondata, If there is a percentage change function try adding 15% Fuel in this area of the Fuel Map. You can't just add fuel in the cell being used, you need to add fuel to the surrounding cells as well. Also you may have damaged your o2 sensor sitting there idling at 10.0afr

This is because you was sitting there Idling at 10.0afr
I'd still go with a 7 on your high compression motor. Because this raised compression is going to cause things to heat up more and faster.

180F is when your Thermostat starts to open. By no means does this mean your parameter shouldn't go past 180F. High compression motor and depending on the cooling system being used. I'd say 210F would be normal operating temp..

If your thinking this then Diagnose and repair this before continuing. Also when you was idling at 10.0afr you could have damaged the cat further

Do an oil change before running it again. I'd use 10w30 Convetional, for next 500-700miles, then i'd change it with 10w30 conventional or if your really want to use a synthetic blend and then you could go fully synthetic after 2000miles(i'd wait a minimum of 2500mile before going fully synthetic)
Your motor is broken in about 3 seconds after first start, your rings on the other hand take some time to fully seat against the Cylinders.
When you was idling at 10.0afr on first start w/Forged pistons(which require more Piston to wall Clearence, for the piston to grow) I assume? You may have flooded fuel past the rings into the oil pan.
The only oil mod i'd consider is an oil temp sensor.

A stock pcv system is fine and as long as it is hooked up right!

So in short what i'd recommend is.
1st; Change oil
2nd; Check/repair Cat
3rd; Verifie o2 sensor is working correctly
4th; replace plugs(Try to idle between 14-15afr, I'd go with the 7)
5th; Get your Tuner back and come up with an afr your both happy with(I hope he also knows how/what timing should look like for your engine).

 

I was adding to multiple cells, I think i'm just not doing it right bc I drove it for 3 days with 10:1 a/f and he had no problem changing it. The rings are still seating fine, it stopped smoking after about 8-10 break-in's, I planned on comp testing it later just out of curiosity. I was going to switch to 8's knowing high comp gets hotter bc they run colder but I'm holding off until the a/f is correct bc it's obviously plenty rich enough right now to not cause detonation. And I know it's supposed to run hotter than 180* just giving you the thermostat spec you asked for lol

I called Phearable and they said that the normal operating temperature is not dependent on whether it's high comp or not which makes sense to me bc the cooling system should still be working the same whether it gets hotter or not, the thermostat and fans should still be switching on at the same point and keeping the coolant at the same consistent temp as a stock motor which isn't happening. The temp was staying normal before the street tune, they think it's air in the cooling system and told me to try bleeding it multiple times so I'll try that. And the thermostat did open in boiling water btw.

I'll give an update after I try bleeding it some more. thanks

 

Forgot to update. Coincidentally, it was air in the cooling system. Tried bleeding it a couple more times the usual way and used a burper while I squeezed the hoses with it running and it's doing good. Still running just a little warm, it goes as high as 204 when I stop and back to 202 when I'm driving but the clogged cat might be causing that so I've got a resonator ordered. Switched back to the street tune also and for some reason now it runs just a little rich on it instead of lean which is good.

 

you may have cracked the head gasket or stretched the head studs during the tune, you should test your coolant for combustion gases.

 

Seems a bit warm but it is summer. Still having issues.?