Help rev limiter bypass!!!!
Guys I'm in a pickle here I need to find some who will bypass/chip my stock 97 accord Ecu rev limiter I need it to go higher do to my s2s2 pro cams my car tuned in at 165 way lower than my last out put of 175 with basic boltons I just need to know if any body knows anybody here in the ie la region somewere around this area that will be able to do it please help!
and the cams actually decreased your hp? if you think the rev limiter is what caused it. then do a obd2 to obd1 harness get a p28 ecu and chip it. honda, crome, neptune. or go aem ems
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From: on the south side of dixie, 1986 Accord Hatch
I think what he's saying is the cams moved the power band up, but the rev limit wont let it use the power at the higher revs, OP is this a street or strip car? if it's a street car it will drive you crazy trying to drive it with all the power up high, those sound like a race cam
does sound like a full race car. but with all those upgrades. i think i would of bought an ems or a chipped ecu then do the upgrades and tune. im guessing hes already on chipped ecu since he mentions he got tuned. if its chipped the rev limiter should be removable unless your tuner doesn't know what he is doing
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From: on the south side of dixie, 1986 Accord Hatch
what are the specs on the cam, what's it's powerband? that sounds like a cam for drag racing, if it is you are going to sacrifice all your street drivability, by moving a lot of your torque into the upper rpm band, it will get old on the street having to rev way up at every light
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From: on the south side of dixie, 1986 Accord Hatch
from prelude power about this cam:
well pro2s needs pro valvetrain and theyre kinda designed for higher compression than 11
pro1s would be more for your current compression
differences between those cams:
- pro1s are more for DD use and pro2s more for track use
- pro2s move powerband higher than pro1s which max power is around stock red line
- pro2s needs higher compression than pro1s (because max power is in higher rpms than with pro1s)
- pro2s needs stiffer valvesprings than pro1s (you can use tuner valvesprings with pro1s but with pro2s you need pro valvetrain)
- pro2s makes few hp more than pro1s because you can rev higher with them
AND
do you really want to rev over 9000rpm? I mean, the power is then up there and things MAY get unreliable in those rpms (this means that your engines life shortens if you beat it)
+ pro2s need 12 compression to work properly because 11 isnt really enough for those rpms
for DD cars theres no point really imo, pro1s are for dd use, but its your car
pro1s would be more for your current compression
differences between those cams:
- pro1s are more for DD use and pro2s more for track use
- pro2s move powerband higher than pro1s which max power is around stock red line
- pro2s needs higher compression than pro1s (because max power is in higher rpms than with pro1s)
- pro2s needs stiffer valvesprings than pro1s (you can use tuner valvesprings with pro1s but with pro2s you need pro valvetrain)
- pro2s makes few hp more than pro1s because you can rev higher with them
AND
do you really want to rev over 9000rpm? I mean, the power is then up there and things MAY get unreliable in those rpms (this means that your engines life shortens if you beat it)
+ pro2s need 12 compression to work properly because 11 isnt really enough for those rpms
for DD cars theres no point really imo, pro1s are for dd use, but its your car
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From: on the south side of dixie, 1986 Accord Hatch
it looks like you would do a lot better for a stage one, especially on a daily driven automatic, you are putting a lot of wear on your engine for just a few horsepower, you can't just put on a cam by going by it's stage, you have to look at it's specs and where it makes power, and see if this fits what you want to do with it,
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From: on the south side of dixie, 1986 Accord Hatch
but did you build your internals for higher RPM? you can try to bypass the rev limiter, but it's there to keep the stock internals from failing and putting a rod through your block, 9000 plus is a lot of RPM, you have to think about everything inside of the engine, everything from the rods,to the crank, to the hardware holding it together
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From: on the south side of dixie, 1986 Accord Hatch
I think he did, but the internals arent upgraded, that cam moved the powerband up into a range thats pretty useless on the street, it's great if you have a fully built race car going down the track ***** out, but not for daily use on the street
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From: on the south side of dixie, 1986 Accord Hatch
yea the stages for a cam are completely different on who makes it, it's application, how many stages etc, you really need to look at a dyno graph of a cam to understand it, or at least understand at what rpm range it makes power, on my car for eg. a stage 2 cam makes power from 2500 rpm to 7000 rpm, but thats on a 27 year old single cam, in my case with all my mods a stage one mild cam would be worthless, it looks like they only make two cams for his application, basically street and race, they might make a stage 3, but I dont know how the power band could be higher then it is, I know some kid who bought the highest stage cam he could get for his 97 civic, with an auto lol, wanted a "race cam" powerband was so screwed the car could barely move at lower rpm, and he would have to rev the **** out of it at lights just to get moving
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