Hey guys , I have a 1994 honda accord ex . It is a "no start"! , after I don't drive it for a few days , also when It rains it does not start at all. When it doesn't start I have a CEL CODE POP UP , I found it to be the ignition output signal, code 15. I have no clue what this means , I replaced the main relay on it and it start it right up but after a week of not using it , it didn't wanna start. I have fuel and spark , the engine starts up, hits about 1250 rpm and then dies . After I still have the key in it, I crank again and just the starter goes . BUT! When I do get the car to start it runs and drives like a dream! No problems ! No stalling and it has never killed on me when I drive it . Please you Guys help me out .

 

This is normally ignition control module bad. It might be best to just pull another distributor from the junkyard if you can.

 

That's what I thought , the ICM but what I don't I understand is I'm getting spark , and also I have a wire that's not showing any power that goes to the dizzy , black and yellow wire , when I crank on the engine , I go down to the main relay and test that wire , with a test light the test light glows but then dies when the engine dies

 

you check power on the back/yellow wire at the dizzy with ignition on. does it have 12volts? don't run a test light. use a multimeter......

 

Yeah. its either the ICM, wire, or the ECU.

 

sorry nus dogg. a follower on youtube. but a bad icm will not contribute to no voltage at the black/yellow wire, at least i have yet to see that, i would say fried ecu but he gets no code 0, obd which mostly won't ever pop up unless its actually fried ecu, check all fuses. also could be a bad ignition switch seen this MANY TIMES, a customer brings me a car on tow truck says no starts. no voltage at the black yellow wire with key on or cranking, yet when i crank it and don't turn the key all the way, just as soon as the car starts cranking i stop and keep cranking and woila, if that's your case raplace the tumbler

 

I don't believe my ECM is fried because once it actually gets started it runs and drives greats , no stalling what so ever . And about that black and yellow cable , I still gotta test it and I will let you know what happen, and on the ICM , I read that the car won't start at all and it kills when driving , it's weird because I do have spark and fuel , the engine runs for a second or 2 then dies , this mostly happens when it rains to or if I haven't used the vehicle

 

just because you have spark doesn't mean it will run. what matters is what color your spark is, is it strong or weak, weak spark combined with fouled/old spark plugs make the spark even weaker, yes a bad icm will heat up and kill the car but so will a bad coil when heated enough it will fail and stop working until it decides to or when it gets cold. if it is the icm i would just buy a whole new distributor because i would recommend to replace the coil cap and rotor anyways and that would cost more to piece it out

 

Sounds good , I checked that black and yellow wire and it read zero ohms , I have a multimeter but I still don't understand it as good , I think I'm going to buy a voltmeter as well. I know the multimeter has one but I don't know how to use it .

 

Put the red lead of your meter on the meter on the wire and the black lead on a chassis/battery ground. This will show you any present voltage.

 

With the ignition on ?

 

Yes.

 

I have 11.53 volts in the black and yellow wire ? What does this mean ?

 

you are dropping voltage somewhere. like i said eld. this same thing happened to me and the homie in his 92 civic it would run like crap. reference voltage wouldn't show correctly neither would regular voltage test. i did the eld test diagnosis and lead me to the eld. once we fixed the bad ground that kept messing us up everything read perfect.

 

Eld ? What's that ? Or do you mean ICM ? Or ecu ?

 

And we'll a buddy of mine poked a hole in the wire with a test light ? Would that drop the volts ? And another question should I change my dizzy then ? Or is there anyway I could run more tests on the dizzy ?

 

My guess is that the voltage he's reading now is actually battery voltage given his car won't start with all the cranking he's done.

Check your battery voltage right now and see if it's the same.

 

electric load detector. but charge your battery overnight then tell us the voltage

 

The battery is at 12.09 volts

 

What would eld do with the vehicle not starting ?

 

Did you charge the battery or is that reading without a charge ?

 

That's the reading for now , I don't have a
battery charger

 

do another voltage test...then test for ohms from the same spot ur using for ground on that test and the negative terminal post...then test for ohms from negative term post to the thermostat ground bolt...should be exactly the same....if not then the ground spot ur using for the yellowblack volt test prolly has paint or dirt and is not a good ground or ur thermost ground needs to be cleaned up


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or the battery terminals need to be cleaned up


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Okay I will do that , and this is for the two pin connecter at the dizzy right ? For black and yellow wire ?