i just got my motor dyno tuned and i only made 193.5 hp and about 136 tq. Im a little dissapointed. i was expecting to make closer to 220 whp. specs are

84.5mm
eagle rods
rs machine type r pistons
micropolished crank
rotating assembly was balanced
act 10lb flywheel
2.5 in exhaust(no cat, 1 resonator)
rmf narrow tube header(switched to hytech big tube header now)
pnp head
crower titanium springs and retainers
blox type b cams
skunk2 pro series cam gears
pnp type r manifold
aem fpr and fuel rail
stock injectors(tuner said i'd be fine with these, i had 370cc rc's for it.)

im in utah so elevation is a factor. should i be making more power?

 

forgot to mention all new oem gaskets. oem gsr water pump and oil pump. fresh build

 

There's potentially more. A good cylinder head, cams dialed in via degreeing/clearance checked goes a longs way. Most other items are easy to obtain. I know of a 230+whp (Dynojet) 82mm LSVTEC.

 

this would be my guess. most people are disappointed by their who numbers because the quality of work thats put into the head. i seen a few guys around my way lose tons of power, even up to 30whp. this is often over looked by most.

forget about the port, all it takes is a valve job gone wrong and your build cant make any more power than a stock LS lol no one seems to mention this as much.

 

Its just a number. We cannot gauge anything off of a peak number with no graph.

 

I'll post my graph tomorrow. And it was 193 whp not hp forgot to add that.

 

We figured that. Just so you know, when your graph looks good this thread is getting closed.

 

Ok

 

 

Elevation is a factor, but it is compensated in the "corrected" numbers which adjusts for air quality factors such has temperature, humidity and barometric pressure (elevation).

 

what do you guys think about the graph? my best quarter mile time so far is 14.8 in a full interior ek hatch, spinning most of 1st gear.

 

Post your time slip so we can get a better idea.

 

mph on the track, what rims your using and size of rim, what tire your using and size, tranny your using? this will give everyone a better idea.

 

I'll look for the slip when i get home. I was using 15 in rims with hoosier road racing slicks. horrible I know lol. i used those instead of street tires i figured it would grip a little better. I now have aero drag rims with m and h racemaster slicks 8x22 x13.

 

b16 transmission, no lsd.

 

I couldn't find the slip where i went 14.8, but here is this one.

 

which one is you? the right lane 12.9?? If not and your on the left lane, then DAMN you suck at drag. 60' is pathetic, and MPH @ 91 something is wrong. But it will help if you indicate if your right or left lane.

 

your 60' is bad.. my ls in my eg does 14.6 with street tires 14" rims

 

theres alot of little things I would check..

Was the engine/rings broken in correctly?
If so, did you do a compression test to see if all cylinders were even?

Personally, Id rather have a better spray pattern of newer injectors even if slightly better atomization over 10+ year old stock units.

What plugs were you using and gap?
how old is the internal coil in the distrib?
What gear did the tuner use when the run was on the chart
Oh, and dialing in the cams after..

 

Here is my latest time slip. I am on the right. I used better slicks and i wasn't rubbing this time. i still spun 1st a little

 

I am using ngk bkr7e. These don't have to be gapped. I don't know what gear he tuned it in. The distributor internal coil has to be atleast 3 years old but I have no misfires. motor was broken in properly with joe gibbs racing oil. no compression #'s. cams should have been dialed in, motor was built at supremacy racing.

 

yes you should be making 210-230whp range and running mid to low 12's, thats if everything is right. my stock internal b20zvtec, b16 head, type r cams, type r intake manifold, custom header with up pipe through the hood made 200whp 154tq and ran 12.53@106mph in a ek hatch. need to do a compression test, if thats ok then you need to check your cam timing.

 

what fuel are you using?

 

My guess would be cams and or head work

 

ET's aren't important right now.. If you're concerned with power, MPH is what you should be looking at.

ET's will come with better suspension, tires, gearing, launching techniques and other stuff..

Your ele is killing you, we got guys that come from Las vegas or Utah and come down to TX/LA and they're stupid fast and they run stupid slow up north..due to Elevation.

I feel like everyone would have an opinon as to why you're not making the power "you're suppose to".

But what sticks out to me, is I'd run a 3'' exhaust, I'd get rid of the RMF knock off and go with something like a hytech big tube.
You say you have a ported/polished head, whats exactly done? Whats serverly overlooked is a Nice Valve Job.. PNP itr manifold? Whats done?? Whats defined as porting.. is it port matched??

The blox cams aren't exactly the greatest but 200+ should easily be doable on those. Were the gears moved? Total AFR / Total Timing? These are things that need to be presented.