I tried serching but didnt come up with anything....

Is there a better intake air temp sensor that you can use on OEM based managements like S300, Neptune, eCtune that is faster responding?

 

I believe the one people use is the GM version. I just relocated my honda one to my charge pipe with the flange xenocron sells.

 

Relocate it to the charge pipe right before the throttle body. You can also remove the plastic that surrounds the internal thermocouple and it will drastically improve response but be careful very easy to damage the sensor. I have mine in the charge pipe and it works well in original form not modified

 

I was wondering why I keep getting that code !

 

The GM is a good deal faster than the OE Honda.

 

But can it just be wired in and used without any issues?

 

GM vs Honda. What do you think? Just relocate the sensor and it will work just fine

Watch my video. You will see my datalog in one of the passes and it shows the intake temp and how quickly it reacts when in the charge pipe.

 

How does relocating the sensor make it respond faster?? Just due to more air across it vs one runner?

 

probably because the intake manifold is a huge heat sink and will radiate heat into the charge and the sensor itself.

 

Both oe honda and the gm are very slow. The bigger the range the worse it gets. Thermocouplers are the only way to get accurate data.

Steve- if you want to know the true temps than get a thermocoupler and log it on one of your s300 inputs. Its just for data. You'll never need it to correct ignition or fuel.

 

Yeah i thought about a thermo. Do you have a particular spot youde advise for a thermo placemant? Id also like to run an EMAP. Im actually using Neptune.

 

Really its just a nonsense waste of money. Being in the charge pipe its as acurate as needed. i mean if you really want exact temp with millisecond changes for datalogging only then yeah you would need to run a thermocouple.

the intake manifold heat soaks the sensor and then its not accurate. Being in the charge pipe it reads the actual charge temps and changes quick enough when boosting as seen in the video of one run with the datalog up you can watch the intake temps change and once in 3rd gear with a heavier load on the motor and the turbo manifold heating up drastically the intake temps start to rise quickly and at the end of the run when i let out of the throttle the temps immediatly stop rising. Look at 3 minutes ont he video and that shows you the datalog and in the middle at the top is IAT

I said before you can also remove the plastic that surrounds the internal thermocouple in the stock sensor and it will respond just as fast as the aftermarket one you buy. Ask WANTBOOST specifically how he did his because its tricky but can be done.

 

It really comes down to how accurate YOU want your data. If you want to know the actual valve and where it happens then thermocoupler is the answer. Nothing against the oe honda or gm, but you just need to take that data with a grain of salt.

Steve- I assume you are a data hungry guy that likes to know what he is see is real. I want the recommend adding an EMAP for sure and a thermocoupler if you want to see some accurate temps... especially pre IC temps That **** is unreal overlayed on a gm sensor.

 

Video was WAYYYYYYYYYYYY over done LOL.

does anybody here still use the IAT fuel and ignition correction tables in a drag application in s300?

 

I think the only thing I used iat corrections for was when I live in New England for idle and drivability. Now I don't touch them here in Texas.

It's a little over the top but my buddy does a great job editing and we needed a little motivation to get back into rebuilding out cars.

 

well i pretty much have mine zerod out. thats what i was asking. race only...

 

WTF does drag only have to do with air temp comp on a turbo car? A drag car is likely running more boost and having a much bigger swing in temp than a street car.

Do yourself a favor and put a good air temp in it and a proper air temp fuel compensation table.

 

Naaa, you don't need that stuff.. that's why I run a BigStuff3 lol

 

You also have to remember that factory ECUs also control the update rate of sensors like the ECT and IAT on the rising and falling side of things.

So even if the sensor doesn't seem fast when you watch it, that doesn't mean it isn't...

 

Whats the sample rate of an iat in a oe ecu? Just curious.

 

i couldnt even watch that video with the editing.

 

I switched to the GM sensor a while back on recommendation from Jeff Evans. You can wire it right in, depending on what EMS you're using you'll have to configure it for it. I run AEM, was as simple as a button click, I'm not familiar with other systems really.

It was a easy swap though, and works much better.

 

You know I am not exactly certain, but I do know the Coolant Temp is a lot slower for whatever reason...you can let a car get up to temp, shut it off and it will actually CLIMB a little while sitting there (no running car). Then you can cool the radiator and start the car, and the temp will drop really slow...

So slow that sometimes if you key off really quick and then back on, the temp jumps down 5 or so degrees at a time.

I think a lot of the way the IAT reads in a Honda ECU is the fact that they knew heat soak was an issue, and also why they had three different IAT comp tables (low load, med load, high load) to help correct for this issue and the sensor they chose.

 

i figured the temp goes up after shutdown because theres nothing radiating heat so the heat of the motor starts soaking in.

 

I just got an IAT sensor for s2000 it was not covered in plastic the tip was bare metal faster ????