I'm having trouble finding out if I should use my stock H23 flywheel with my 91' accord. I know the flywheel I have is like 18lbs. Should I get a lighter flywheel for my stockish setup? And the clutch, should I go with stage 1 or oem?

I tried looking up information about this but could not find anything about using H23 flywheel in F22a motor. But I also just want to know if using the stock is a good idea or should I go with a lighter unit. Someone said it helps HP but lowers tq to have a heavier flywheel. If probably helps gas mileage too to have it heavier. I don't know what to exactly believe though as some of these things I read could just be opinions and not actual facts.

 

a heavier flywheel will increase hp and tq. a heavy one will not increase anything. the lighter it is the faster the engine will spin. for clutch how stock are you?

 

You must be a little tired or tipsy, isn't it that a lighter flywheel gives more hp/tq not a "heavier" one?

My setup is I/E/H with a P12 ECU and H23 IM. I'm probably making anywhere from 150-160 hp at the crank. Keep in mind this is an H23 trans that stock makes about that much power, however I may plan on upgrading to a cam or ecu tune later on.

Where should I get parts from? Ebay has cheap parts as well as non-cheap parts. What about this http://www.ebay.com/itm/XTD-STAGE-1-CLUTCH-10LBS-FLYWHEEL-KIT-ACCORD-PRELUDE-H22-H23-F23-F23-/200918988257?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item2ec7b475e1&vxp=mtr with a 10lb flywheel?


I just don't have the money for an expensive clutch with flywheel kit right now, so its either the cheap stage 1 clutch+flywheel kit; The cheap stage 1 clutch; a Exeddy OEM clutch with resurfaced OEM flywheel; or an OEM clutch with cheap 10 lb flywheel.

Or for a little more I could go with this and not get the lighter flywheel,

http://www.ebay.com/itm/EXEDY-RACING-STAGE-1-CLUTCH-KIT-SET-CL-ACCORD-PRELUDE-2-2L-2-3L-F22-F23-H22-H23-/151028944556?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item232a06ceac&vxp=mtr

I already have the stock 18lb flywheel. I'm planning on taking it to a machinist to resurface. Maybe I can also ask him to lighten it for me to perhaps 12 or 13 lbs?




This is confusing. I just want to know what would be the best for me with what I have on it now and which may allow for a few more upgrades. All while staying in a price range of $200. Would you trust a cheap ebay clutch kit??

 

You're thinking of the flywheel wrong.

It is a device used to store energy and, in the case of a reciprocating engine which has a sinusoidal power output, smooths energy output of a non continuous power source. The more mass there is to a flywheel the less likely its moment of inertia will change. IOTW, a heavy flywheel will be harder to change its angular velocity as it is more resistant to change, be it faster or slower. A lighter flywheel is less resistant to change and will require less torque input for it's speed to change. This is why a lighter flywheel on an engine allows the engine to change its speed of revolutions quicker.

A flywheel will not increase or decrease an engines actual power output.
An engine with a 100lb flywheel may never reach a given rpm that it may reach with a 10lb flywheel, but that does not mean the engine itself has any more power.

There was a thread about a month ago on lighter flywheels in daily drivers.

As for an *&** clutch, just buy a quality replacement unit for your intended purposes. Regarding lightening a flywheel that much, I would just opt for a new one. Removing 5lbs of material from a flywheel may have more ill effects than desired, it could explode with not so sexy results. I would not risk the strutctural integrity just to save a few pounds. Save up and purchase the correct lighter flywheel.

 

So you wouldn't recommend an XTD stage 2 clutch kit? I've heard a lot of mixed reviews on them; some saying they're great others saying they're garbage. The people who said they were great said the people who had them fail did not break them in properly.

Its either that,

http://www.ebay.com/itm/XTD-STAGE-2-CLUTCH-10LBS-FLYWHEEL-KIT-PRELUDE-ACCORD-H22-H23-F22-F23-/200911801408?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item2ec746cc40&vxp=mtr

Or this,

http://www.ebay.com/itm/EXEDY-CLUTCH-PRO-KIT-RACING-FLYWHEEL-92-01-HONDA-PRELUDE-2-2L-2-3L-F22-H22-H23-/151028999753?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item232a07a649&vxp=mtr


Anything top brand name stage 1 is going to be expensive, so if I'm going to get stage 1 or 2 (stage 2 holds up better from XTD than stage 1) its going to be from XTD. If that's too risky though I will just get the Exedy OEM clutch with a lighter flywheel.
I just want to know if the XTD worth it or not. Anyone have any experience with them?

The stock clutch should hold up more than good enough though since my car is F22 and i'm going to be putting an H23 clutch and trans in it which makes more power stock. But just in case I want to tune/turbo/cam it I would need to get a stage x clutch. Is the XTD clutch a good route?

 

Save up, 200$ is going to get you nowhere near what you want to be.

Performance flywheels are made with structural integrity for their weight, taking a OEM flywheel that wasn't down to the same weight would be a bomb waiting to tick. Have you ever seen the result of a flywheel breaking/breaking lose inside a drag car? It isn't pretty at all.

EDIT: The F22/H22/H23 clutches are the same in aftermarket applications.
Also I personally throw money by taking a risk like that. (XTD)
Unless it's a full out race clutch, all you do is drive like normal to wear it in.

I meant to say I wouldn't throw money

 

Yeah unless you're gettin oem 200$ won't get you anywhere, that's what you're saying.

Is buying a lightened flywheel worth it over stock? That kit at teh bottom I posted is a stock Exedy clutch with a F1 Racing 11.5 lb flywheel. Seems like a good buy to me.

 

Seems like a balance between outright performance and daily driving ease.
It's definitely worth it over stock imo, less power being devoted to turning the massive stock flywheel which is great for accelerating and shifting.
I have a 8lbs Fidanza waiting to go in my car along with a Clutchmasters 6 puck (400 series) when I get the moeny for my transmission. It was a little under $850 for both of them.
That imo is on the extreme side (the clutch). If you check CMs site, all the clutches are pretty much the same in price. You just pick which one you want and go. I think they have deals if you buy a flywheel from them as well but don't quote me on that.

 

IIRC XTD clutches are nothing more than repainted stock pressure plates. I think they got busted on a Supra forum some time ago.

As for 'stage #' don't fall into that bullshit terminology. It was fun back in '98 to b.s. with fellow gamers/classmates about what was done with your virtual Gran Turismo Mitsushitbox racer to get it to go 150+M.P.H. on the Test Track.
We live in the real world, where torque ratings are important, more important is to use parts from a reputable company that can give feedback and tech support for your combination.

There is a reason eVil junk is cheap, it's junk.
All clutches need to be broken in, like brakes, the transfer of material to the flywheel to bed in the material. Like brakes, if the break-in is done incorrectly one could either not transfer enough material or worse overheat and glaze the flywheel/pressure plate causing lack of grip.

But in this case, I'm going to go with false advertisement from XTD.
You don't need any fancy named clutch. You need a clutch that will match your engines power output. Have some simple mods that up the power 10HP guess what, a stock quality replacement clutch and pressure plate are still going to work fine.
Install that ultra-mega-chicken clutch/pressure plate with Jesus Jizz in the clutch material making it able to withstand 5000lbs of torque. Guess what, it's going to be a bitch to drive as the pressure plate alone is going to give you a shin splint driving to grandmas.
No.
You get a clutch/pressure plate assembly that is rated for the torque your engine is making. Not by some advertising pseudo science naming scheme.
I'm going to go with 'hell no' as my final answer.

Call up Exedy and see what they have to offer. Then find out who their authorized dealers are.

 

I gotta say. I have a exedy stg 1 and a fidanza 8lb flywheel with my h22 and i do not see a major difference that everyone refers to.

In my accord (94) it has a h22a swap and it has the oem flywheel, and the only thing is does different than my hatch(h22) is it revs up and down slower.

 

That is the purpose of a lighter than stock flywheel, it allows the engine to change engine speed quickly.
In a daily driver it may not be that useful unless one is trying to rev match on a down shift.

 

Would you think a fidanza 8 lb flywheel would work well with an OEM Exedy clutch kit?

Its in my budget. I could get the stage 1 Exedy kit with the 8 lb Fidanza flywheel for about $450. But if I got the OEM with the flywheel it would be about $300.

So my question is if its worth the extra 150 to get stg 1 or should I just get OEM. Which is it? Personally I think OEM would more than be able to handle the power since I'm using an H23 clutch/trans which makes 20-30 more hp than my car stock. My question is if there are any advantages to getting stg 1 over OEM even if OEM is more than enough to sustain your power output? The only reason I can think of is stage 1 would provide potential for upgrades.

 

I've heard mixed views on this. Some say lighter flywheel makes it way harder to drive in the city and others say not so much. As sleepyaccord said. With that in mind I think the advantages outweigh any disadvantages.

An ebay seller who is also a Fidanza dealer says they, (by the way this is the cheapest I ever saw them),

- Frees up horsepower available for acceleration
- Quicker shifts
- Allows easier heel-toe shifting
- Extends transmission synchro life
- Extends engine main bearing life
- Reduces overall vehicle weight


http://www.ebay.com/itm/FIDANZA-ALUMINUM-FLYWHEEL-HONDA-ACCORD-PRELUDE-CL-/310087281287?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item4832a46a87&vxp=mtr


My only question on those is are they resurfaceable? And does an 8lb flywheel make the car harder to drive or is this just a myth?

 

I was reading this,




http://www.8thcivic.com/forums/clutc...h-no-bs-2.html



I don't know what to make of this.

 

well what do you want from it?
with stock flywheel there will be
less idle vibration (not that you would ever really notice)
easier takeoffs (more energy stored to be transfered to the wheels)
more idle hang/slower rev changes


lighter flywheel
faster rev changes (push in the clutch for an upshift and the rpms will drop like a rock)
easier rev matching because of less rev hang (see above)
more vibration transferred to the cabin and if you have a wandering idle, it'll get worse.
more hp available to accelerate due to less weight that needs to be turned
leaving from stops will require more gas due to less weight in thebflywheel

I can't remember if I'm missing anything but yeah, that's the gist of it.

 

Ask 100,000 questions, gets 500,000 answers, asks 1,000,000 more questions. Mishako129 probs.

 

Like any change to a vehicle you will have to relearn how to drive the car.

A lighter flywheel has less mass, less mass means there will be less inertia stored in the flywheel. If you release the clutch on a flat surface the car will still pull forward, but the rpms will initially drop more than with the stock flywheel. It will require more throttle input when on a hill or pulling out of a parking spot due to the lack of stored inertia.

Mishako129 I'm not so sure what you are trying to get out of the membership, as you post like there is no tomorrow, seemingly ignoring or imagining responses from knowledgeable members. Either you are impatient, lazy, bi-polar, a troll, or a combination.

If the first, you need to find a new hobby, this is not one for the impatient.
If the second, tough. Learn to use the search function, answers come quicker.
If the third, take your meds and make sure you are stable before posting.
If the fourth, **** off.
If a combination, well...

 

Hows it going guys i have a question about my car its a 96 honda accord ex 2.2L Vtec (F22B1stock) im wanting to build a car that has speed an have it as a family driver as well. Now my question is when i shift it at high rpms (5k-5500k) an let off the clutch the rpms seem to stay high an then drops and then keeps going like it drags well in gear it don't grind or slip out.

 

Verify the clutch is not hanging up.
If the clutch is not hanging up then most likely the clutch is beginning to slip and you will need a new one.

 

It never ceases to amaze me how people still think a flywheel changes a motor's power/torque, like having a heavier or lighter flywheel is going to help or hurt a car going up a hill. Those people need to learn what horsepower and torque actually are, and how they are measured. I'd venture the guess that most people running the lightweight flywheels are in their teens or early 20s. Somehow as you get older, hitting 4k rpm by simply touching the accelerator, and then trying to not stall in traffic isn't cool anymore, it's just annoying.

But to actually contribute something to this thread, I'd like to point out that the flywheel can really make a huge difference in the load the tranny sees. For example, the 6bt cummins will tear the 5th gear splines out of an NV4500 tranny boosting at 1500 rpm, because of the torsional vibration. That's a 60 lb flywheel. The 4bt at the same power level is much worse, with 2 fewer cylinders. How many people think about that, a 4cyl being harder on a tranny than a 6? But it sure is. When people take the mass out of rotating assemblies, they encounter really stupid failures. I remember years ago reading on this forum how guys were running the light, undamped crank pulleys and shattering their oil pumps under boost. The crank harmonics would go right into the oil pump and shatter it. But for that last .01 % improvement, they were running undamped pulleys instead of fluidamprs.

 

I just got an email for this 3 year old thread, not entirely sure if this counts as a necrobump or not. Good to see Mishako finally got the ban-hammer too.


I would have to say the same as Mad Mike though.
Do try and catch this quickly, if your clutch is hanging instead of disengaging fully you'll soon have a slippery clutch as well as a hanging one.

 

Ah what a nice trip down memory lane with good old Mishako129.....This forum needs a troll like that every now and then. Just a touch of the dramatic.......

 

HAH!
From time to time it does help in clearing the baffles.