I'm getting more serious about my turbo build and started looking up more specific issues that I will need to address when I order parts and assemble my B18C1 block. I am aiming for 400hp, with 450 being the max. It will be my daily driver, so reliability and streetability are priorities. I will be using Golden Eagle for my sleeving company of choice.

Question is, what should I bore the block to? I know 81.5, 83, 84, and 84.5 are some common ones, with 81.5 and 84.5, I'd say, being the most popular. This is more of a matter of personal opinion, but backing it up with reasoning and facts will definitely help me and others who see this out. So what bore, and why?

 

The bigger the bore, the more displacement...that goes without saying. Similarly, the bigger the bore, the less material between a good sleeve and a useless sleeve. If you were to bore to 84.5mm and have problems, you would have to overbore to at least 85mm. Since 85mm is the max most sleeves can go on boost, this ends the useful life of your sleeves. If you mess up a piston again, its time to resleeve.

Personally, I would go with an 83mm. That gives you a bump in displacement but is small enough to be forgiving, should you have issues. At 81.5mm, you're very safe, but for the power you want, i feel it is a waste not to gain in displacement.

 

81.5mm bc its your first build and you will rebuild it!

 

Thanks Shicst, good ****

And Muckman, that's what I thought too. But then again, why not do it once, do it right? Go big or go home, right? Why would I want to pay another ~$1000 and get it rebored and resleeved later on?

 

You do realize you can bore the same sleeves, right? ah forget it

 

I think what's being forgotten is the fact that effective use of larger bore should accompany additional stroke. I'm sure we can agree that additional bore alone doesn't give the benefits of larger displacement that both bore and stroke would accomplish.

83mm is interesting, but some parts will be difficult to come by should it be an issue arise later. 84mm X 89 would be optimal. Otherwise, I agree. Stay 81mm or 81.5mm.

 

I assure you, with this kid it is a lost cause. He will be the root of MANY stupid threads to come. Everything he asks is EASILY searchable... if one were to actually read, the answers are right in front of you.

 

Don't even bother with resleeving unless the stock ones are damaged

You can make the power you want all day long without issue, assuming you have a good solid tune)

Spend the money elsewhere on the build

*waits for I want to run a pte 6262 or larger comment from op*

/thread

 

No, I didn't realize you can get aftermarket sleeves rebored.

 

Just wait for my build. Furthermore, this is a personal opinion thread, unlike nearly all of the other threads asking about boring and sleeving on the web.

 

This is the basic stuff I am talking about. Just how do you think they take the sleeves from 81mm to lets say 87mm? Most sleeve manufactures come in at under 81mm or 84mm options. If you choose something in between or larger the machine shop simply bores it to your desired size.

You see so many setups at 0.5mm over a whole number because they have obviously rebuilt it or had problems with another engine where the pistons they already used from another rebuild left over so they went to that bore. It is common sense really...

81mm is standard B-series bore aside from the B20 at 84mm. People already gave you all the advice you would need. All you would have had to do is call up your favorite sleeve company and ask these simple questions anyways. Golden Eagle uses a step deck design and wouldn't be my first choice as sealing issues are typically present for oil mainly. Again, all of this is truly searchable one way or another. Google is your friend.

Time for this to be locked.

 

As I understand it, they bore out the stock sleeves and press in the "aftermarket" ones. I was unaware that they could rebore the aftermarket ones. Thanks for helping though, I'll be sure to search next time.

 

Depends on the process, but some companies completely remove the stock sleeves and a couple options remove most of the stock sleeves. If you go to the manufactures website, most have pictures of the process... Search the difference between wet and dry sleeves...

 

Interesting. In the 13 years of using GE sleeved blocks, I've never experienced what you're describing, nor have I seen this in a variety of sleeve jobs outside of Honda. If you could point to specific examples, that would give datbumper an even more informed understanding.

 

Is yours step decked? I am not aware if they used that process from the begining but if I remember correctly in 2002... Also, aren't you using an O-ringed block? Finally, I said the step decked design is not my first choice - not Golden Eagle (at least not this time )...

BUT, since we are on the topic of Golden Eagle, did you know they will O-ring a step deck block? That is a joke in itself. The step deck design already preloads the head significantly in itself. Go on Google and type in something along of the lines "step deck block leak". Have peopld used GE with great success? Sure. Did even Benson used to use step decking? You bet.

We all know the industry and technology changes. I have been doing (and still do) things that are no longer accepted myself. When it works, you sometimes are afraid to change. But last time I heard, GE uses a 0.006" step on their blocks. At that height sealing tends to be a problem outside of the fire ring. You want an example? Go look at "rich7777"s thread.