Let's talk about roots type blowers mated to itb's.
I was recently comparing my m62 to a jaguar m90:

And I just happen to have these sitting around:

I was thinking about building a top mount laminova cooled manifold to position the m90 on my b18c5 (nose pulley on passenger side with a jack shaft to get the correct rotation).
It occurred to me that I could incorporate the itb's for some wicked throttle response.
Of course I'd have to put some kind of bov mechanism in there.
What do you guys think?
As for the question of why; well I want amazing throttle response and lots of torque down low.

And I just happen to have these sitting around:

I was thinking about building a top mount laminova cooled manifold to position the m90 on my b18c5 (nose pulley on passenger side with a jack shaft to get the correct rotation).
It occurred to me that I could incorporate the itb's for some wicked throttle response.
Of course I'd have to put some kind of bov mechanism in there.
What do you guys think?
As for the question of why; well I want amazing throttle response and lots of torque down low.
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The jaguar unit spins the wrong way. You'd have to swap drive gears and flip the snout or this whole thing is pointless
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Oh and the jag snout is too long, it would need to be machined down and shortened.
What you need to do is mount the SC where the ac compressor bracket is (d series guys do it all the time) and simply run piping to a front mount and then to the intake mani... (just like a turbo setup) you could still run itbs but you wiuld need to build a plenum for them. You'd also need a blow off valve.
What you need to do is mount the SC where the ac compressor bracket is (d series guys do it all the time) and simply run piping to a front mount and then to the intake mani... (just like a turbo setup) you could still run itbs but you wiuld need to build a plenum for them. You'd also need a blow off valve.
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But even the smallest turbo setup (gt2860) would roll you.. even larger turbo cars will roll you
You might have decent power and torque until 3000-3750ish but after that its just hot air and you'll have poor power gains from there up
Where as most reasonably sized turbo setups will make more power from 4000 to rev limit, way more than any supercharger you could put on a b/d, except for maybe a rotrex
You might have decent power and torque until 3000-3750ish but after that its just hot air and you'll have poor power gains from there up
Where as most reasonably sized turbo setups will make more power from 4000 to rev limit, way more than any supercharger you could put on a b/d, except for maybe a rotrex
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Not enough room for a jackshaft really... especially if you plan on itbs as well.. you'll have to ditch the jrsc manifold (and thus your intercooler) to use itbs
And honestly it isn't worth the trouble.
And honestly it isn't worth the trouble.
Why not build a plenum over the end of the ITBs and mount the supercharger where the AC unit mounts. Check this thread out...
https://honda-tech.com/forums/showth...p+supercharger
https://honda-tech.com/forums/showth...p+supercharger
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I can mount the jack shaft right below the brake mc and run it towards the passenger side.
I wonder why you think an m90 won't be sufficient for 300-400whp.
I've seen them push 500whp on other motors.
Hell, didn't rmcdaniels help develop a ccw m90 kit?
http://www.magnumpowers.com/Honda_B.php
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They never even got it remotely close to 500 and the kit is full retard priced
Do what me and Schister66 suggest, so much easier to do, cleaner install and the charger and related components won't get heatsoaked sitting behind the motor..
Not to mention you can sell your existing jrsc stuff and more than fund our method and have a bit of money left over
. However, the most expensive part (unless you know someone) is machining the snout down to m42ish length. .. if you don't the charger will sit right behind the header.
Then there's flipping the drive gears and snout but should be more than easy for someone mechanically inclined and who pays close attention to how it was taken apart. I would also suggest a light port on the rotor housing as well
Most time consuming things will be making brackets to hold the charger where the ac bracket fits, some just modify the stock one, getting pulley alignment dead nuts on as well as belt length (use string and go around the pulleys. That's the length you need
Also need to focus on belt wrap and adding a second pulley to prevent belt slippage/slap
If you look at all of the d series kits running this way you'll get all the inspiration you need
.we aren't saying that your original plan isn't awesome, because it is... its just with a jackshaft and finding a way to properly mount it in perfect alignment, as well as getting the length right, as well as the inner shaft and bearing support system. Plus the cost of billet has gone sky high lately (we have a full capability machine shop with 5 & 4 axis mills, etc so trust me on this part) so making your jackshaft assembly plus the custom stepper pulley assembly that would need to be designed one off makes it all out of the realm of reasonable cost
Plus the method we are referring to has few moving parts (less to make/break/repair) and is much simpler and quicker to make, not to mention lighter on the wallet
It will allow you to achieve your goals in a more reasonable mannee
Oh and you can eliminate the restrictive laminova setup and run a decent front mount and get the same cooling effect. You'd run charge piping just like a turbo setup, plus you can use the bypass valve on the blower to maintain fuel economy (although driving around periodically with it closed all the time can be fun. And you would also need a blow off valve of some sort.
Do what me and Schister66 suggest, so much easier to do, cleaner install and the charger and related components won't get heatsoaked sitting behind the motor..
Not to mention you can sell your existing jrsc stuff and more than fund our method and have a bit of money left over
. However, the most expensive part (unless you know someone) is machining the snout down to m42ish length. .. if you don't the charger will sit right behind the header.
Then there's flipping the drive gears and snout but should be more than easy for someone mechanically inclined and who pays close attention to how it was taken apart. I would also suggest a light port on the rotor housing as well
Most time consuming things will be making brackets to hold the charger where the ac bracket fits, some just modify the stock one, getting pulley alignment dead nuts on as well as belt length (use string and go around the pulleys. That's the length you need
Also need to focus on belt wrap and adding a second pulley to prevent belt slippage/slap
If you look at all of the d series kits running this way you'll get all the inspiration you need
.we aren't saying that your original plan isn't awesome, because it is... its just with a jackshaft and finding a way to properly mount it in perfect alignment, as well as getting the length right, as well as the inner shaft and bearing support system. Plus the cost of billet has gone sky high lately (we have a full capability machine shop with 5 & 4 axis mills, etc so trust me on this part) so making your jackshaft assembly plus the custom stepper pulley assembly that would need to be designed one off makes it all out of the realm of reasonable cost
Plus the method we are referring to has few moving parts (less to make/break/repair) and is much simpler and quicker to make, not to mention lighter on the wallet
It will allow you to achieve your goals in a more reasonable mannee
Oh and you can eliminate the restrictive laminova setup and run a decent front mount and get the same cooling effect. You'd run charge piping just like a turbo setup, plus you can use the bypass valve on the blower to maintain fuel economy (although driving around periodically with it closed all the time can be fun. And you would also need a blow off valve of some sort.
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