I've got a 96 ek hatch stock suspension so isn't lowered yet, when I turn left (only left not right) something makes a clicking sound. I've looked under the wheel well to see if there are any plastics hanging down that would cause the tire to rub and I see nothing that could be rubbing. I would assume this may be axles perhaps?? I have absolutely no idea and am hoping someone will have some pointers or ideas, along with any tips or ways I may be able to diagnose to get myself an absolute answer so that I can replace whatever is causing this. Thanks

 

Bad axle.

 

Okay thanks, I had a feeling that was it. Is it worth it in the long run to just replace all of the axles or just the bad one? Or just the front, or back as well? I am planning on getting coilovers in the near future but would like to make sure everything else is up to par on the rest of the car before I go upgrading other entities.

 

Yup, my 85 dodge did the same thing.

 

You need only replace the bad one, but replacing the opposite side would be reasonable preventative maintenance. Definitely inspect it for problems beforehand. Remarkably, axle replacement is not that hard. Plenty of DIYs on the topic. Have a read.

 

CV joint or axle/hub for sure. Fix soon or very bad news ahead. I've seen it take out the ball joints, torn fender, Wrecked wheel etc when it goes catastrophic. All kinds of bad.

 

Dang, I had no idea it could end up being such a major possibility of bad news. Bump to all for the info, I'll be buying my new axles this week and replacing asap

 

That sounds like a lot more going on then an axle that needs replacing from clicking like the OP problem. Not sure why your telling him to look at the hub either.

OP- look at the CV joint. The rubber boot is probably torn. You can normally tell by visibly seeing the rip or a bunch of grease around it or spraying in a straight line on the surround parts (that will make sense when you look at it). Dirt and grime get in there, loss of grease and it starts clicking.

There are plenty of DIY on here I'm sure. 32mm socket, 17mm socket, pry bar and a ball joint separator and you can do it.

 

I will check that out to see if that could be the case, thanks for the pointer. If this ends up being what is wrong then would I assume that the axle may still be just fine or would I still be replacing that anyways?

 

Fair enough, boots and CV joints go hand and hand IMO I do them both if boot is gone, depending how long it was left like that. I don't like to take chances with cv's. seen some rough accidents from catastrophic CV failure. Only reason I say look at hub is I've found at high mileage if CV is gone, it's a good time to check the front wheel bearings too. Just my experience. And I did say CV. Your post was def more helpful than mine tho lol

 

By replacing the whole axle, you will be replacing the CV boot and CV joint. It's a 1-step solution to a torn CV boot and possibly damaged CV joint.

 

Deez axel!!!!!!

 

axle

 

id only replace the one if the boot isnt busted on the other one and even if u fix the boot and repack it full of grease again wont fix the broken one when they start clicking the damage is already done time to replace it

 

and if the boot isnt busted on the good axle id be lookin at putting new boots on them.......ive seen cv axles go for 400k miles on cars b4 and be oe still be tights and all that.......just gotta keep and eye on the boots

 

I was just going to replace both axles even if it's only bad on one side. To fix one and then have the other go out a month or two later wouldn't be what I'd want to deal with. So I called a local Honda dealership yesterday and the quote per new axle was $367 per. I am definitely not willing to spend that much so I have a couple of different options. I've been told that AutoZone carries some pretty good aftermarket axles that come with a lifetime warranty, and I've also got a local shop called Auto Adventure that has used but in great condition oem parts off of salvaged cars. I have heard that they are extremely reputable but I still don't know if brand new aftermarket or used great condition oem would be the better route to take? And thanks for all the info guys, I'm going to be looking into replacing all of the wheel bearings as well, I like to just get anything done that I can, even if the car doesn't quite need it yet I'd rather just be proactive and save myself the hassle later on down the road.