So I've figured out the rough details of how I want to accomplish my power goals for my car, but I need help with some of the specific parts to use.

What I have is a 95 EG Sedan with an SOHC ZC non-VTEC motor. The motor is very low-mileage and I like being able to use d-series parts, so swapping is out of the question. Turbo is a possibility in the future, but not something I'm thinking about for my current power goal of 160-180.

I'm going to switch to a Y7 head and upgrade to a Stage 1/2 camshaft & adjustable cam gear.

The head will be easily acquired, but my questions are regarding the camshaft & cam gear...

I've been looking at both Stage 1 & Stage 2 camshafts for d-series, both seem to offer similar power increases but at quite different costs, and some require springs and retainer kits for the head while some do not.

I'm not opposed to having my camshaft reground either, but I wouldn't know what profile to have it ground to OR WHY. Most of the lift/duration specs are gibberish to me, so it makes sense for me to get something that is a drop-in part with a minimal amount of tuning required afterward.

I am also not very educated on mating an adjustable cam gear to a system. In other words, I don't know what characteristics a new cam gear should have... If I get a Skunk2 camshaft for example, should I get a Skunk2 cam gear to go with it?

These are the sort of details I'd like help working out.

 

Assuming you have the non-vtec SOHC ZC, its extremely similar to the A6. That said, you aren't going to make 160-180 without MAJOR work, and a Y7 head would make it next to impossible without a cam so aggressive, the car is no longer DDable. Also, there are only one or two companies that make cams for a Y7, and Junk2 isn't one of them. A cam and retune aren't going to get you there alone, either. You will need some major bottom and top end work.

As for adjustable cam gears, they're for "clocking" the cam, making sure your valves open and close at basically perfect times. This is the kind of thing a professional tuner does on a dyno, not something you do while street tuning.

 

Since you feel the need to send a "dose of reality" my way, let me explain why your reply is absolutely aggravating and unhelpful.

First, you did not read my post yet you commented anyway. I know you didn't read my post because you started with "Assuming you have the non-vtec SOHC ZC", a detail I had already included in my original post. Second, I made no statement saying that I expect these 3 modifications to accomplish my horsepower goals, merely that they are what my questions are related to. There are other upgrades that I have planned such as P29 pistons, tuned ECU, etc, but I had not listed them for two reasons; 1. I don't have questions about them, and 2. they are not relevant to the questions I do have. Also, my horsepower goals are just fine even with a Y7 head. I don't know what you mean by MAJOR work, but that adjective is subjective and not very technical. To some, re-honing and swapping pistons might be major... in my community it is not.

People like you are one of the primary reasons that others hate asking questions in forums. I have no doubt that you know what you're talking about and I'm sure you may answer a lot of "dumb" questions from time to time, but if you're not going to be helpful please keep your comments to yourself and chase less people away.

My question restated is this... With a Y7 head on my SOHC non-VTEC ZC motor, what should I look for in a more aggressive camshaft & adjustable cam gear, and should I get them from the same company? What are one or two of these companies that make cams for a Y7? Skunk2 was merely an example to illustrate the type of information I need. And to clarify, when I say a minimal amount of tuning, I mean a one hour-long session on a Dynojet dyno.

 

I was actually very helpful to your question. I told you to check the all motor forum. You're a lot more likely to get the knowledge you want regarding camshaft timing there than you are here. The only company I know of off the top of my head that makes a cam for the Y7 is Bisimoto, and I wouldn't recommend them.

I've actually defined "major work" within the past week regarding a D series seeing that much power. The sleeve size and deck height are not conducive to that level of power, nor is the limitation of a single cam. The pistons are too small for the displacement needed, the sleeves are too small to bore for needed displacement, and the deck height is too short to allow for the stroke needed. P29 pistons aren't going to get you there with any semblance of reliability. Why you would want to run a Y7 head over the A6/ZC head is beyond me - the A6/ZC head is better in every way imaginable. The stock ZC cam is more aggressive than both, straight from the factory. The A6 head is a superior design.

Let me explain why you got the same generic answer everyone who comes in here with unrealistic goals gets. Your question, while more advanced, is just as bad as the kids who come in with no clue how an engine works, expecting to make gobs of power out of their Y7. Yes, you seem to have an idea what you're talking about, but it's still obvious you haven't done your research yet. If you did, you would know what I've already said in regards to the D16 block's deck height, bore, and sleeves. Let me also explain why you won't be getting much help anywhere. You've done a great job coming off as a complete dick who doesn't want to hear the advice you're asking for.

If your "community" is so advanced, maybe you should ask them, instead of us lowly H-T guys that, evidently, no one wants to ask about anything. Considering we're the most active EJ-chassis oriented forum on the internet, I don't know where you're getting that idea.

 

Co-sign!!!

 

That's the nicest post I've seen from grumblemarc.

 

If you are going to swap heads why do a Y7 non Vtec head? Pretty pointless since it is almost the exact same head if not the same as the SOHC ZC. Just do a Y8 or Z6 head on it if you are going to to the trouble of swapping heads. Then at least you will have a half way decent gain from your time and money and it gives you more tuning options and more cam choices than non Vtec. In reality if you want to get any power out of a D/ SOHC you need to boost it. Or swap it of a B series.

 

no sense in using a y7 head unless u plan to port the head to the max... they can be ported more then vtec heads.As for cams for the y7 the market is not there as it is for the vtec heads... having vtec makes it possible to have a less agressive grind on the lo cam and a wild agressive grind on the hi-cam vtec lobe. easier to daily. as for adjustable cam gear they are mainly for looks unless your head is milled....

 

I thought I was done with this thread, but I have to call you out. This is completely and totally wrong. Not even within the same universe as being correct. Cams can be clocked and timed for more power, above and beyond what electronic tuning can allow.

 

adusting the cam on a SOHC is not going to net more power... its all looks on a SOHC unless your milled .012 and more... per .012 you advance the cam 1 degree.... messing with this timing will shift the powerband to kick in earlier or later and can possibly hurt your hp if not set correctly. theres a diff between SOHC and DOHC when it comes to using adjustable cam gears my friend... when adjusting cam timing on a DOHC you have something called valve lapping... this is something honda now does WITH electronic tunning on the new I-Vtec's. as they have a adjustable cam gear that adjust on the intake cam that is adjusted with oil pressure.......

 

So you just managed to say that it does nothing, and that it shifts the powerband in the same sentence. Thanks for proving my point while agreeing with me.

 

shifting the powerband can hurt top end power and net nothing... you may be able to sqweeze an extra 5-10hp up top(depending on setup and cam) or make alittle more tq down low and loose top end power or could make no gains.. most SOHC cars make the best power at TDC.... you can not valve lap on a SOHC.... in my opinion its not worth the money unless your head is milled enough to need one. this is why u dont see I-vtec on the SOHC 1.8 new civics because honda knows the power gain is not there..... get my jifft? its more bling then performance......this kind of tuning should be only adjusted by a tuner ..

 

lol I-vtec isn't on the 1.8 for a short list of reasons, but "power" isn't one of them. Degreeing cams is beneficial for both SOHC and DOHC applications, and if you're building to the point of needing a tuner to look at your car, you should also know how you plan on driving the car, and with that simple piece of information any competent tuner can degree your cam(s) to properly suit you, regardless of how many there are. There's a lot more to it than "bling".

Regardless, this is a conversation best left for the proper subforum. This isn't it.

 

*sigh* Okay, tell me if this doesn't make sense.

z6 head = head swap, z6 dizzy, p28 ecu
y7 head = head swap

For the z6 head swap, you spend the same as you would on a y7 head swap plus a nice cam. More hp per dollar.

The y7 head has a smaller chamber than the A6/ZC head which means more compression. It also uses z6 springs which are stiffer, meaning you can use a more aggressive cam.

As for porting, a mild porting will do fine.

As for the cam gear, it is my aim to shift the power-band down a bit for earlier torque.

 

Hummm R18 engine in the Civic is a SOHC i-Vtec motor so in the newer Fit 1.5L engine. Not the type of Vtec we all like but it is still SOHC i-Vtec.

 

...sigh...you don't make sense. "Most cam specs are jibberish to me."
That is the reason you're not getting a technical answer. The cam specs tell you relative behavior of the cam. The cam determines how your engine behaves mechanically. "More torque" now that's just funny.

Cam gears play a huge role in tuning w/o a head mill. Its not valve "lap" its overlap. Lapping the valves is when you put compound on them and slowly spin them to mate w/valve seat.

Smh